deviantART: Popular Tutorial Artisan Crafts

Tutorial

Sun, 10 Jan 2010 06:31:48 PST

yaaay my first tutorial

pleas ask if you have any questions.

have some exceptions concerning the eyes and fur+glue

Eyes:
*you can also use glass marbles as eyes, paint them and put some glossy varnish on.
*if you want to sculpt your own eyes in the clay you just have to put on a couple of extra lairs of glossy varnish when your finished painting them.
*VARNING! be careful if you want to use plastic eyes, they can melt.

Fur+glue:
*not all fur fabrics like super glue and they might not stick.
if that is the case you can try to put some fabric glue on the fur on the aria that is going to be glued on, when the fabric glue has dried then apply the super glue on the face and try again.

were you might find the things you need to make your own soft toy:

*super glue: most bigger stores have super glue.
*fur fabric: most fabric stores have some kind of fur fabric.
*glass pebbles : you can find them in crafts stores and flower shops.
*supersculpey clay: craft stores and art supply stores.
*soft filling for toy making: crafts stores and fabric stores usually have that.
*glossy varnish: can be find in crafts stores and art supply stores.

this cat is a commission for =Gothicmama

i had some help whit the photoshop part from my fiancée ~elforg

Craft foam tutorial

Wed, 16 Mar 2011 20:18:03 PDT

Hello deviously deviants !
As you can see , I made this tutorial for craft foam .. many people including myself couldnt find any good tutorial on the net.. so I decided to make one , wich I think is easy to work with ! { IF YOU HAVE questions , ask in comments, I will anwser with pleasure !}

Where to buy craft foam ?: [link]
Here is a website you can buy craft foam with many sizes ! You can easily find craft foam in craft stores also.

I do not own the vincent claw picture and neither the link shield, all the rest is made by me execpt the resin armor wich is a good cosplayer that talked to me about resin!
Every picture was taken by me and written by me aswell() .

If you want me to make some more tutorials , please ask me in notes or here if you want ! Dont forget to :fav +fav:, watch and comments !!!

Facebook : www.facebook.com/#!/pages/PxS/170038759676807
Youtube:www.facebook.com/#!/pages/PxS/170038759676807

PS:! I Want , please send me those! :[

Plush Hair tutorial

Sun, 26 Jul 2009 05:53:26 PDT

I know it isn't right to ask for it, but PLEASE, if you use this tutorial:

Comment with a link to your work
Give me credits in the description.

Thanks! ^^
---

A lot of people have asked me how to make hair. Other plush makers like Pheleon
have made really good tutorials, so I made one too.
I've made so many tutorials I don't think I have any secret left to share about my plushes. Soon no one will need me to make more.

1. I always start with the front part. A big piece with more or less the shape of the character's hair
2. A lot of people glues the hair, but I prefer to sew it. As the felt is thick, it's easy to hide the seam.
3.Cut smaller pieces and put them below to make the sideburns.
4.I cut another piece of felt with a similar shape but slightly smaller and, if needed, some little triangles like in the photo, to make it look more realistic.
6-7. For the sides, cut a longpiece with both tips pointed.
Sew it along the head
8.I use to make the back part in layers, although it depends on the kind of plush. The first layer is the lowest and narrowest.
9. I then cut 3 or 5 more layers, as well as little triangles to fill the spaces.
10. For making plushes it's easiest to improvise as you go, specially while making the hair. Depending on the character you can use more or less layers, and make them bigger or smaller.

I hope this has helped ^^

PLUSH BODY TUTORIAL: [link]
PLUSH EYE TUTORIAL: [link]
PLUSH HEAD TUTORIAL: [link]

TUTORIAL: Origami Gift Box

Sat, 02 Jun 2012 05:23:52 PDT

A simple Tutorial on "How to make an Origami Gift Box"
Make beautiful gift boxes that can hold gifts for your loved ones.

Enjoy and fold!

PS. If you want you can always send me a link with your work if you used this tutorial. I will make a list of the work in the description like in the other tutorial as well.

Here is a list of the people who used the tutorial:

1. - [link]
2. - [link]
3. - [link]
4. - [link] and [link]
5. - [link]

Plush head tutorial

Wed, 22 Jul 2009 13:01:35 PDT

Steampunk Pendant Tutorial

Tue, 30 Nov 2010 14:38:53 PST

A walkthrough of how I make my jewellery.

Hope it was clear, if anyone decides to make something based on this tutorial, I'd love to see it, so leave a link in the comments!

EDIT: Wire tutorial up here [link]

totoro bento tutorial (tutorial in description)

Thu, 21 Mar 2013 08:51:58 PDT

TUTORIAL HERE:
[link]

NO FOOD COLORING USED
im back with a totoro tutorial! please watch <3

Scalemate Plushie Tutorial

Thu, 01 Sep 2011 23:41:35 PDT

I was ordered by Andrew to take the tutorial down, but I know it's archived somewhere. If you ask around, you might be able to find it. Good luck! And you can always ask me for sewing questions.

Tutorial Kawaii Onigiri KeyChain

Sun, 25 Nov 2012 03:34:23 PST

Feel free 2 ask me anythings about this tutorial..
Updated: The template for this Kawaii Onigiri Keychain--->[link]

*Please don't use this pic tutorial to make money.. hope u'll understand what i want 2 say here..

I think some people not understand this,, what i means was don't use this photo (ex: print or put on ebook) or even put it in some DIY pack and sells it..

Tutorial - Personal Wax Seal

Fri, 02 Jul 2010 01:18:56 PDT

My first proper tutorial!
Here for your creative pleasure, a little thing I wrote about how to create your own wax seal using things you can easily find, or source cheaply.

For so many years, I had wanted my own personal wax seal with which to close my missives. As with such things however, the ones I could find about the place were either ugly, generic, soulless, or brain-shatteringly expensive. And besides, I wanted to design my own.
So thats what I did.
I had visions of cast silver with perhaps an ebony handle from the block I was gifted years ago (I will find a use for that little treasure one day). But I cant smith in silver, and its not exactly something I can spend a lot of money on at the moment. So, time to think creatively.
And this is what Ive come up with - a hand-carved soapstone seal with a King Billy pine handle. It took me no time at all - an evening to carve the seal and a morning for the handle and finishing - and it was dead easy. Everything I used can be easily found or sourced and wont cost an arm or even a leg, if youd like to give it a go.

Tools

My materials:
A design, drawn out first and then mirrored.
A small block of soapstone. I used a little carving that my local Asian grocer had for 50cents each. It already had a flat bottom and was roughly the right size and shape.
Wood for a handle, I used a small block of King Billy pine, which is endemic to my island home. You could use whatever you find laying about.
Wood carving tools, I used a small straight detail knife and a small scorp for hollowing the handle.
Epoxy glue
Sandpaper, several grades
Danish oil, for finishing
Polymer modeling clay, for testing the carved design

And because I lack fine carving tools with which to work the soapstone:
A fat tapestry needle
A dress-makers pin with the flat top end stuck into a split stick (for a handle).

First youll obviously need to work out your design. Once youve got something you like, youll need to mirror-image it in order to get a right-way-up impression when you use your stamp. I find the easiest way to do this is to draw your final design in soft pencil, fold the paper in half to one side of the drawing, and rub the back of it with a spoon (or something smooth and vaguely roundish). Now you have a visual reference for copying your design backwards onto your stone.

Soapstone is incredibly easy to carve, and you could probably carve the whole thing - handle and all - in one piece if you wanted to. I really wanted a wooden handle, so I first set about roughing out a shape for my stone that would end up set into the wood.

To start off the seal carving, I found it best to very lightly scratch it into the surface, then slowly work a layer at a time, adding a bit more pressure each round.
The round-tipped tapestry needle was very useful for creating a deep line with a soft round bottom to it - great for uniform-width lines or text. Fine detail can be worked in with the pin.
Its also fairly easy to slip and end up with a line somewhere you dont want one. Even the finest of lines will show up on your finished wax impression, but if you slip and leave a mark, it can be sanded out carefully without any troubles.
To test the design as you go, you can warm some clay in your fingers until it is quite soft, and use that to make an impression.

With the design finished and carved into the stone, its just a matter of making your handle and setting it in(if you wanted a separate one). With mine, I had carved a flat round blob on the back of my stone that would set into the wood, so I carved out a space for it to fit. This helped make it stronger.
The wood was given a good sanding with 3 or 4 grades of fine paper to make it silky smooth, the stone epoxyed in, and the handle given an oil once it had all set.
You could certainly use all sorts of things for a handle aside from carved wood - you could sculpt something with a polymer clay, for example.

In any case, this is a really easy and cheap way to create something personal, beautiful and functional. Ive certainly gotten a lot of use out of mine already, and Ive even used it to embellish parts of the website

Also, please remember that your seal is made from stone. And SOFT stone, so it will not take being beaten about. Take care of it and it will last a long time
Use a proper sealing wax, such as the gorgeous stuff from
Atelier Gargoyle. They also have an excellent page. about how to use your seal and wax properly.

This article is also featured on my soon-to-be-finished blog.

It also goes without saying (you'd think) that this article is mine, and if you steal it or reproduce it in any way I have the will and the means to hunt you down and poke you to death. Then i'll reanimate you, state my ownership and make sure you regret it
Love!
-Kel Flowers - kelfae.com

__________________________________________

If you do try this, please leave me a comment with a link to your picture so I can share it below. Then everyone can see what other people have done with it
It'd also be fair to stick a link in your deviation to back here

Deviants who have used my tute and let me know:
~lalalura [link]
~Nimtai [link]

__________________________________________

Kawasaki rose tutorial

Fri, 23 Feb 2007 02:21:03 PST

A short illustrated tutorial to Kawasaki rose. I made it long ago for my friends.

The four shots on the top show the folding in progress.

Then shots on the left show the upper side of paper, while the shots on the right show the bottom side of it.

Search on youtube for videos.

Polymer Clay Tutorial - Wonky Cake

Sat, 26 May 2012 01:41:13 PDT

My latest tutorial is finished and online [link]

It was a fun one to do although quite long to finish.

xx
Stéphanie
______________
★ FaceBook page: [link]
★ Website: [link]
★ online shop: [link]

All images, ideas, designs and content © 2008-2012 PetitPlat, Stephanie Kilgast. All rights reserved.

Princess Peach Crown Tutorial

Tue, 13 Nov 2012 10:52:47 PST

This shows how I made my crown for my Princess Peach costume I am working on at the moment.

Materials used:

- Worbla
- Resin
- Transulent glass paint in pink and blue
- Spray-Putty
- Brown acrylic paint
- Gold decoration spray paint
- Matte varnish
- Sticker crystals and pearls
- Air dry clay
- Sandpaper
- Brush

- For the base I used Worbla, but you can also use wonderflex (or other types of thermo plastic) or foam. I attached the edges on each other and shaped the Worbla by using hot water. The material will stick on each other by heating it up.

- With a soldering iron I added the edge on the crown.

- To smooth out the crown I have sprayed spray putty on it, let it dry for a few hours and sanded it slightly.

- I casted the gems on the crown with clear resin. I used a drop of transulent glass paint to color them and a base mold for resin which you can find in craft stores.

- After the resin was fully harded out after a day, I glued mirror foil on the backside and then on the crown with super glue . I used air dry clay for adding/ finishing the edges.

- I sealed the resin stones with masking tape and spray painted the crown gold and let it dry for a few hours.

- I used very small sticker crystals and pearls so I didn't need to use glue to put it on the crown. This is faster and saver to avoid glue being visible.

- For the worn out look I used brown acrylic paint which I thinned out with water. I used a piece of cloth and rubbed it over the crown until the crown was fully covered. I used a clean cloth to rub off the paint, the paint will remain in the edges of all the details which gives the crown a more classic look. You can also use the dry brushing technique for this result.

- For sealing everything I used 2 layers of matte varnish.

And it is done!

Tips:

- For being able to shape Worbla you can also use a hairblower, heatgun or oven.
- Be careful with the soldering iron, you can make holes in the material with it easily.
- If there will be some paint on the resin stones, don't worry you can get rid of it with acetone/ nailpolish remover.
- Drill smal holes in the crown to be able to sew the crown on a wig.

I hope this tutorial will help you out with your future projects.

Wire Wrapped Cabochon Locket Tutorial

Fri, 25 Nov 2011 06:12:03 PST

So, my first tutorial. After that, I'm not sure if I'll make another, haha.

If you Do use it, show me what you make, yes?

edit: BTW, I'm often in [link] if you need to ask me something.

Leather Armor Tutorial

Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:28:11 PDT

I wrote up a tutorial of my first leatherworking project. It took a lot of time and research, but I know anyone who has time and patience can do it. I also really want to thank the Tandy man who talked to me for about an hour when I went to their store. He gave me so much advice. Thank you!

I also learned a lot about leatherworking from who has a great maskmaking tutorial on her livejournal. I mean, that's what armor is, right? A mask for your body. Yesssss. Thank you!

Sorry for any typos (so tired), and please ask any questions you may have.

Homestuck Horns Tutorial Part Two

Sat, 17 Sep 2011 03:14:01 PDT

Part two of the Homestuck Horns Tutorial I first did. It only took me about a year to get it to people but I hope it's okay! Again my descriptions and English is atrocious but I hope It's enough for people to understand.

Thank you everyone who has shown interest in them! I hope this helps.

Have any questions? Our F.A.Q. is here: [link]
Please read it before commenting.

Plush eye tutorial

Mon, 29 Dec 2008 03:13:43 PST

I know it isn't right to ask for it, but PLEASE, if you use this tutorial:

Comment with a link to your work
Give me credits in the description.

Thanks! ^^

---
Well, some people have asked me how I make my plushes' eyes, so I've tried to make some sort of a tutorial, taking photos of the whole process to try to help.

1. First draw the eyes and the rest of the face with Adobe Photoshop. As it has to be cut out afterwards, it's best not to add too many details
Print them in that paper for shirts (t-shirt transfer)

2.Afterwards, take off the back side of the paper. I guess that isn't the way to do it, but that's how I always do it and I like how it comes out

3.Then cut each part separately

4.To iron it, set each piece over the felt and cover it with another piece of the same felt

5.Then cover it with a cloth tissue or any other piece of cloth that doesn't contain fiber, as the ironing would melt it.

7.Last, iron it, but not for too long or the drawing might disappear.
I iron it for about 10 seconds first, then I look how it comes out, and iron for another 1 or 2 series of ten seconds
it's best to check from time to time so you will know if it needs more ironing while you iron it, move slowly the iron, don't leave it still or the draw will spoil

I hope this has helped ^^ and yes, I forgot number 6

PLUSH HEAD TUTORIAL: [link]
PLUSH BODY TUTORIAL: [link]

Veeery short Kigurumi Tutorial

Sat, 05 Mar 2011 03:28:28 PST

A lot of people asked me about patterns or a Tutorial >_<

So, I made a quick one, I don't know how to explain it better XD
I would say, don't be afraid to start making one, because there's pretty much nothing you can do wrong since it fit's (almost) all sizes^^

I made this tutorial based on my selfmade Kigurumi:

[link]

Felt cake tutorial- cream

Sun, 04 Dec 2011 00:00:52 PST

_{Here is a simple cream tutorial for felt cakes, more coming soon!!

Have fun making~

More tutorials:

---
♥ Etsy shop [link]
♥ Facebook page [link]}

BRS Canon Tutorial

Mon, 14 Mar 2011 08:50:53 PDT

BRS Gun Tutorial.

This is a tutorial for how I constructed the gun. Large scale prop. Lights are not included as I didnt document it (doing at 3am) and others may find a better way to do it as theres a barrel already ready for it. More pictures from the shoot will be up soon I hope haha.

Some additional info:
Pipes are 4 inch and 8 inch respectively
Tools used are dremel rotary tool, Proxxon Foam Cutter, Bosch power screwdriver.
Most of my connection are done with screws from 1.5 inch to 4 inch long. You may use glue instead.
You can hotglue foam, just dont let the tip touch the foam.
Iron on technics can be searched online (monokote in youtube). Paint is cheaper but a much messier and longer procedure.
Total took me maybe 30-40 hrs for construction and layering. This is not 100% complete yet though haha.

Side note: The canon is very heavy. 1.7 m high and weigh probably 8-10kg. Extremely durable barrel but foam parts may fall off if handled roughly. The plastic coating that is done of the foam protects the gun but is extremely costly. It cost me 3 rolls (each about 25). The only damage to the plastic was a rock punching a hole at the barrel tip.

And if you have problem viewing, just download it will be better. DA is really bad this days =/

Pics from the shoot

Pleated School Skirt Tutorial

Sat, 19 Feb 2011 22:14:52 PST

My very first tutorial. Hopefully everyone can understand it. I was making a pleated school skirt for my Ryofu cosplay and decided I would take pictures of the entire process and turn it into a tutorial. I also used this same process to make the tiny skirt for my plushies. If you have any questions just ask

Oh and if you use my tutorial to make a skirt I would love to see pictures!

Tangled Pascal Clay Tutorial

Thu, 18 Aug 2011 23:40:47 PDT

Yay, Pascal! I loved Tangled (who didn't?) and while wondering what to make out of polymer clay i stumbled across a Rapunzel tut and thought PASCAL!!! And i love making tutorials at the moment, so this came about.

I'm supposed to be making a HP tut for but it hasn't happened yet...sorry dear! I will make on eventually, i promise! Just hang in there!

If you have any questions about this tutorial feel free to ask, and if you use it then let me know so i can put a link in the description.

Apologies as always if my handwriting is hard to read. And so you know, the clay i'm using here is Fimo.

Other clay tutorials:
Axolotl: [link]
Toothless (HTTYD): [link]
Toothless #2: [link]
Christmas Dragon: [link]
Robot: [link]
Platypus: [link]

Awesome people who have used this tutorial:
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it.
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]

Tutorial: Link's Gloves

Sun, 11 Jul 2010 08:08:40 PDT

[ 700x3772 px file ahead! ]

I decided to make this tutorial on making Link's gloves.
Twilight Princess and Skyward Sword version, peops xD

I warn you! I'm not English so my language might be bad xD

For the pattern you have to go the this website. You can follow the tutorial there too but I made one too, so.
I did not make the pattern. I just remade one for myself! But I suggest you print the pattern from the website and use that.

BOOTS TUTORIAL:

Good Luck

Doll eyes tutorial

Sat, 19 Sep 2009 20:09:44 PDT

CLICK FOR FULL-SIZE.
YES.
REALLY! <3

Hello all!

As you know, i've been working on quite a few dolls in the past.

I experimented with this technique for a little while, and want to share it with you now, hence this tutorial I made for you all!

It's super quick, super simple and you can find all the supplies close to anywhere you shop.

here it is!

If you make eyes with this technique, post them here, I would love to see!

N.B. Please do not repost this tutorial without my consent, thanks!

Origami Flower Tutorial

Mon, 14 May 2012 05:29:54 PDT

A simple 8 steps tutorial on "how to make a origami flower".
for the complete flower you need either 5 or 7 petals.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Enjoy!

PART 2: How to glue a flower: [link]

PS. If you make the flowers can you please link me some photos?

Here are some people that used the tutorial in their work:

1. with "Shining Eyes" - [link]
2. with "Kusudama" - [link]
3. with "Vibrance" - [link]
4. with "My First Kusudama" - [link]
5. My friend with "Flower" - [link]

Making boots for BJD tutorial

Tue, 25 Oct 2011 10:44:21 PDT

WARNING: FULLSIZE IS HUGE!!!

Please download a PATTERN here: [link]

This tutorial can be used for making human-size boots too, with some changes to the process:
1. No wire in the soles, of course.
2. Leather for all parts should be much thicker than for dolls.
3. Use stiff and strong leather for the outer soles. Make low heels (I recommend not more than 3 cm high) because higher heels require special soles.

Enjoy!
If something is unclear please ask me in comments.
------------------------
Для русскоязычных: если вы заинтересовались туториалом - не делайте двойную работу по переводу, читайте оригинал тутора здесь: [link]

Celty Helmet Tutorial

Sat, 26 May 2012 08:03:54 PDT

Tutorial on how I made my daughter's Celty helmet. I've had several inquires on how I made it, so I put this together for you guys. Had I realized at the time that I was going to make a tutorial I would have taken better/more pictures.. the ones I took were just my record of progress. I had to take a few to add to this tutorial, but I still wish there were better ones! I did my best to explain steps that I don't have pictures for. I hope it's still helpful and at least gives you some good ideas!

Celty is from Durarara

HTTYD Toothless Clay Tutorial

Sun, 17 Jul 2011 02:06:36 PDT

Toothless from How To Train Your Dragon. I love that movie, and decided to make a Toothless polymer clay figure - so i thought, why not make a tutorial too?

Apologies for my appalling handwriting, i hope you can read it. I just find it easier to handwrite tutorials, than to use text.

If you have any questions, post them in the comments, and if use this tutorial let me know so i can put a link in the description. ^^

Other clay tutorials:
Toothless #2: [link]
Christmas Dragon: [link]
Axolotl: [link]
Pascal (Tangled): [link]
Robot: [link]
Playtpus:[link]
Pikachu: [link]

Awesome people who have used this tutorial:
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]
used it here [link]

Vriska robot arm TUTORIAL 2of2

Tue, 04 Oct 2011 11:19:49 PDT

A bit different Vriska Serket robot arm tutorial
~ NO COMMISSIONS ~

Part 2 - The Colors
Part 1 - The Glove [link]

OH GOG. This took longer than I expected! I'm sorry for the delay. ;-; traveling, school exams, social life.. you know the drill. But now it's here!

I explained pretty much EVERYTHING in this part, so this might sound like a tutorial for dummies haha. I just wanted to be thorough and explain ALL the pros and cons I went through with this process. ALL OF THEM. I hope this'll be helpful on your own path of Vriska cosplay~ <3

PS: I'd LOVE to see your results! <3

character Vriska Serket from Homestuck © Andrew Hussie
all else © me

Loveless Ritsuka Ear Tutorial

Fri, 20 Mar 2009 16:52:00 PDT

EDIT 4/27/10: The faves keep coming! O__O; I never expected such favor of my simple tutorial heh..

Just a note, I've noticed some pictures of those who have done the tutorial and I'm seeing a pattern in accidentally having the fur go the wrong way on the ears. Make sure you get the fur fibers running toward the *pointed end* of the ear.. not toward the base. The pointy end of your ear should be seam ripped thus giving it a nice fluffy look at the ends!

***************

How I made my Ritsuka ears for my Loveless cosplay seen here: [link]

Download the original for better than full-view resolution! (big file, I know.. D:! )

...

Anymore questions? Just comment! <3

Vriska robot arm TUTORIAL 1of2

Wed, 07 Sep 2011 11:54:49 PDT

A bit different Vriska Serket robot arm tutorial
~ NO COMMISSIONS ~

Part 1 - The Glove.
Part 2 - The Colors [link]

At this half I explain how to sow a glove out of 60 den grey tights. -Again, this is just a messy walkthrough with all the mistakes and everything of how I rolled with this, there's better ways, I bet. Learn from my mistakes, bro! :'D

So, my robot arm ended up a bit more complicated than the original design. I didn't want to just color my arm with few stripes for the cosplay and be done with it. I wanted it to look AWESOME. I took influence from GUNNM and FMA etc. and the fab result surprised even me. : D Since people have been so sweet and curious about this, here's a 2-part tutorial just for you. <3

This method can be used for just any robot arm, not just Vriskas. Or simply just how to make a grey glove for troll cosplay etc, if you don't want to paint your skin.

PS: I'd LOVE to see your results! <3

character Vriska Serket from Homestuck © Andrew Hussie
all else © me

Caledscratch - TUTORIAL

Sat, 08 Oct 2011 01:23:35 PDT

Oi, this thing is massive and took way too long x_x But by popular demand, here it is! My tutorial on how I made my bby.

Message or comment if you have any further questions! Hope you all enjoy. And at the bottom, I'm the one in the grey shirt, lol.

~~~~~~~~~~~~

Homestuck (c) Andrew Hussie/MS Paint Adventures and all respective elements.

Strawberry felt Tutorial..

Tue, 14 Jun 2011 17:27:28 PDT

I'm make this tutorial for "My Cute Mini Cake Box"

TUTORIAL: Origami Bow

Thu, 07 Jun 2012 07:16:18 PDT

A cute tutorial on "How to make an Origami Bow"

You can use any kind of paper you wish, any size etc and make beautiful bows for your hair or for anything you like to use them for.

Enjoy and fold!

PS. Link me photos of the Bows you make and I will make a list in the description with them.

NOTE: changed a minor mistake ... sorry!

Uploaded a Video for this tutorial:
[link]

People that made pretty bows:

1. - [link]
2. - [link]
3. - with the AMAZING - [link]

MockingJay Tutorial

Wed, 17 Aug 2011 12:05:38 PDT

So I made one of these ages ago for my cousin as a thank you for lending me the hunger games books. [link] who has a Hunger games craft group asked me to make a tutorial for it. Its taken me a while but here it is!
It's my first tutorial so comments are welcome (but please be nice )

Obviously I do not own the books or even the picture I based the charm on.

Beginner Pony Plushie Tutorial

Wed, 08 Aug 2012 13:46:35 PDT

Pattern page one: [link]
Pattern page two: [link]

You'll need 1/3 yard of material, matching thread, and the usual sewing equipment (scissors, thread, etc). Machine not required - I sew everything by hand. This makes an 8-inch tall pony, but the pattern can also be enlarged or shrunk; adjust material requirements accordingly.

This is as simple as I can make the pattern and still have it look decent! Anyone who can knows the basics of sewing will be able to use this.

If you don't know how to backstitch or ladder stitch, there are several tutorials here on DA and on YouTube.

Sewingstuck - Felled Seam Tutorial

Mon, 15 Apr 2013 23:25:33 PDT

A tutorial on how to do felled seams!!

Cat and bow tutorial

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 00:16:48 PDT

Zomg like a trillion hours later I've finally finished my FIRST EVER tutorial! It was so fun and I'm so proud it came out quite pretty 'cause I had to use MS paint x3 This is for the two whole people who agreed that I should make a tutorial so.. here, now you can learn how to make your own cat with bow charm <3

Cats made using this tutorial:
[link] by MiniEats
[link] by CinderstarofRubyClan

burn tutorial?

Wed, 03 Nov 2010 02:55:47 PDT

Ok, I didn't take any WIP photos of this one as it was done in educationalpurpouses for a makeupstudent of mine; there was no time=/

Anyways, I thought I'd explain alittle what to do to get this result, and go through the process:

First off rip of a couple of papertowel-pieces the size of the desired 3rd-4th degree burn (the curtled and open skin/wounds).

Apply a coat of wet latex to the skin (shave the area and wash with alcohol or something like it first) and applty the first layer of papertowel evenly over the skin.
(Use nontextured soft papertowels for this)

cover the applied paper with a thin layer of latex and apply the second layer of paper, this time you either stretch the skin and previously set layers of paper+latex in the OPPOSITE direction the nervthreades and muscles run across the body (in this case the muscles run from the elbow towards the hand, and so you need to stretch the skin across the arm instead of along it) and apply the paper, or you shape the paper as such before you let it dry. Cover with latex.

Last layer of paper. use small pieces of paper this time and apply them with latex in a NON-even fashion. You can mass them up into small disgusting sausages or rip them up as you go, either way, the unnaturallook of this last paper-layer will be mended by more latex

If you want some heatblisters or open wounds in this part of the wound cut them up now. Take a pen or something not lethally sharp but not rediculously blunt and peel a hole in the paper/latex. Now either cut a hole of it with like a nailscissor or something if you want the skin to have fallen of (fourthdegree burn only) or peel a little hole and fold the edges in to make a heatblister (mainly third degree burns). The one I've made in the middle is a radically big Heatblister (to explain and show how to do it to the people present) and the smaller ones are skin losages.

Do all of your desired BIG wounds at this point and when you are done lay a coat of latex over it all. Thin coats in the wounds and thick coates over the 3rd layer of paper (to smoothen the surface into a base from which to process further later on)

Be sure not to latex more than like a cm out from the paper to ensure you have enough space for the 1st and 2nd degrees later on.

If you have bigger wounds like the one on my arm there you might want to start reflecting over how the flesh or even bone underneath would react to the damage. Now as I said, the one in the picture is a compliation of various methods to educate people in different ways of work, but if I would have followed a specific line I would have probably made the bone underneath the skin somewhat burnt as it is so exposed and the 2nd degree burns more "wet", but enough about my life for now, just imagine(or google... ) what a real wound would look like and how the body reacts to this type of offence.
Where does it bleed the most? what type of skin roasts first? how deep does the bone lye in this part of the body? etc etc.

smoothen the edges of the wound with latex (still dont extend the area of the latex furthur than necessairy) and lay another coat over the surface of the 3rd degree and dry with hairdryer.

Once the latex is dry its time to start putting makeup on this layer (in order to propperly be able to cover it with more latex in other colors) Start of with a layer of black on the 3rd degree. make sure it enters all the cracks of the latex (for this, black is good because, even though RED will be the basecolor here, its allways better to have a darker color "shine" through than a light one, atleast when doing injuries). On with some fix-powder to settle the black color.

Now do an equal layer of red over all the black and fix with powder. This red color will now serve as our base or unhandled naked skin/musclemass. Take your allready used sponge of blac makeup and "drybrush" (WH-fans will know the meaning of this expression) black onto the textured surace, leaving the red color filling the cracks and gaps. Powder.

Now spray the wound with siliconespray and let dry. Powder again. Take a wet cloth and gently wipe and "clean" all of the powder and spray of (this will take some of the makeup off with them, but no worries, more will be applied later)
This procedure has now rendered the top latex surface unmergable with another layer. Place ONE more layer ontop of the 3rd degree (NOT IN the wounds) and dry with a hair dryer.

Once dry, peel open the top layer of latex to create a last brigade of normal skin, rendered cinged and ripped on top of it all. Redo the process of putting makeup on the original wound to refill the gaps left by the cloth (but not too much, a little white latex showing looks great as i reseambles burned, pigmentless skin). ExTREMELEY carefully drybrush someblack over the peeled last layer of latex.

Now the basig BIG one is done, place two layers of latex around the wound (leaving aprox 1cm of untouched skin between the latexed 3rd degree and these new layers in order to be able too more easily peel ut the 2nd degree burned skin) let dry. Peel the two-leyered latex upp from the edges facing the wound. You can also make spontanious blisters along this process with some more latex, or peeling the alleady existing latex into holes of thin skin.

Put a thin just "blushing" layer of red makeup where the skin is supposed to have peeled up from. powder...

Do this proces again with just one layer of latex and peel up. Don't put any makeup on it yet though. This skinlayer is just suppose to serve as the layer of skin the body is allways ready to peel in case of "emergensies" so no redness or blood yet.

Now take a piece of papertowel and put minimal amounts of red in it. Use this to genty flush the skin around he wound into an irritated, reddish color to give impression that the body is now working to control this wound and fix it. Put that amount x 2 inside the 2nddegree burnpeels. N

Now take your fines brush/sponge and gently drybrush all the peeled up edges in black; the closer they are to the burn, the blacker they are. Ergo, the outer peels are almost not black at all exept in the "middle" of the peel which is the one area that has been most exposed to heat.

Take the black sponge (need a sponge for this) an gently just tap the sponge around the wounds. This ccan e done randomely, just no more than afew shades (overdid mine...).

Now goooh! I use vaseline or siliconegel mostly. Apply a thin coat of whatever you are using furstof all in the cracks of the 3rd degree. Secondly in the heatblisters and thirdly in the vasinity of the peels (right where the skin is supposed to have peeled up fro, to create a oozing effect.

Last effort: Blood. irst of we are to line the inside edges of the open wounds with "scratchblood". This is a type of bloodeffect used to create scratches and other shallow wounds and cauterized bleeding. Apply this only to the inside edges of the wound.

Brush Unmixed theatrical blood (dark) in the open wounds (not much, this "burn" type of injuries cauterize the bloodvessels almost immediatelly and leave little or none left to actually bleed).

mix theatrical blood with scratchblood and alittle (!) fixingpowder in a small container. This creates a lightred bloodcolor to then be painted in under the peels and blisters. Take a brush and paint it on, and use a finger or unused sponge to even it out and erase some (creating a great effect of newly effected naked skin bleeding shallow from every vessel) focus on the already vaselined areas near the peels

If you wanna create the effect i did on the bottompicture, just pull some latex off and paint this bloodmix underneat, thass awl

Hope somebody understood and learned something!

Elmo Plushie Pattern and Tutorial

Sun, 04 Dec 2011 21:17:51 PST

After creating this doll [link] for my nephew's birthday present, I had several requests for the pattern. So here's my first attempt at a plushie sewing tutorial. If you try this out and find any errors or confusing places, please feel free to leave a note.

For cutting out the pattern pieces, you can download this .pdf file: [link]

Book Binding Tutorial

Sat, 07 Jan 2012 21:28:57 PST

Ok, so, wow, this has taken me ages to get around to, and two days to actually do, photograph and put together in tutorial form.

This is my cheaty bookbinding method.

I have no machines or nice paper/card suppliers, so I kind of have to adapt what others do so they work for me. The most expensive bit to buy via this method is probably the duct tape.

I hope it's clear enough. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me. I'll go-a-searching later on after dinner to find the tutorials I learned from and adapted to do this method.

Also, disclaimer: I am not a professional book binder, at least not in the proper way. I do my best to make them very pretty and work, but I'm not professionally trained (I'm self-trained), and I have no machines or gear or whatever else. So, please don't take this tutorial as the be-all and end-all of how to do book binding. I'm an amateur.

That said, I worked really hard on this, it's my gift to for catching my kiriban.

EDIT: I see my typical long sentences, typos and overly wordiness has not taken a break for this tutorial. I'm sorry. Can't fix it now., will attack it again later and perhaps add a few more pictures so we can keep the names for parts of the book construction consistent.

>.< Sorry.

Sewingstuck - Boning Tutorial

Tue, 09 Apr 2013 20:28:42 PDT

A tutorial I did for my sewing blog sewingstuck.tumblr.com that explains how to put boning in a garment!

Totoro Plush with Tutorial

Wed, 19 Oct 2011 16:17:03 PDT

Made another Totoro plush, but smaller and made with felt instead of fleece.
It's about 6.5" wide and 8" tall (not including limbs)
Made a tutorial for this on my blog
CLICK FOR TUTORIAL!

also will be giving this plush away on my blog sometime next week, so check back!

---------------------------------------------
BLOG - SHOP
TWITTER & FACEBOOK

Fursuit tutorial P7- ears

Thu, 07 Jan 2010 23:25:47 PST

Continuation of my tutorial. This is the first time sewing the ears onto the head like this and I'm loving the results so I'm putting it here.

The head shown is a custom job, hence the missing ear tip and what not. I think this might be the last part of my tutorial, I might include a "HowTo" on doing a neck, I dunno.

If this helps anyone, I want to see the results! Just send me the link.^^

I think I'll do a tutorial on tails next.

Scalemate Tutorial Part 1a

Mon, 16 Apr 2012 13:56:30 PDT

This is the first part of the Scalemate tutorial I made! If you want to post this on Tumblr, please reblog it from my original post! Also if you have any questions or comments, please contact me on my Tumblr!

Pattern:
(Ignore the part where it says to wait until I tell you to cut the pieces out, just do it all at once. I don't care)

Basically copy/paste these into Microsoft Word or some other similar program and fit them to the page. Alternatively, photoshop them to be 8.5"x11".

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

NOTE: These patterns are NOT MINE! They are Metroid Hat's! Metroid's tutorial was taken down, so I thought I'd make another, since this is such a great pattern.

Materials
(There are some things on here that aren't on the tutorial because I derped and forgot them :/)

-Fabric: You don't need very much. I got wayyyy too much the first time, but I think about 1/4 to 1/3 of a yard (on a bolt 3 feet wide) would suffice for the body and less than 1/4 for the stomach. I use fleece, but pretty much any fabric will work. Fleece is soft and easy to work with, which is why I chose it. Or, alternatively, you could get scraps (I know they sell them at Joann's, but I don't know abuot other fabric stores). Scraps are usually the last bits of a bolt they can't sell normally, so they discount them a little bit.

-Stuffing (I use poly fiberfill from Joann's.)

-Buttons: I use the Favorite Findings Big Basic Buttons from Jo-ann's.

-Thread

-Needle

-Pins

-Scissors

Scalemates (c) Andrew Hussie

Please DO NOT make these to sell! They are Andrew Hussie's intellectual property and you CANNOT make a profit off of them!
Go here for more info.

Tutorial Part 1b

Tutorial Part 2

Tutorial Part 3

Custom Tutorial Part 3- Paint

Wed, 23 Feb 2011 17:55:14 PST

Here's part 3 of the custom tutorial

Naruto Ninja Scroll Tutorial

Wed, 28 Apr 2010 18:52:32 PDT

I wasn't really planning on making this a DA tutorial, but I just had to use my camera because it's been such a long time since I took any pictures with it :3.

You might want to check the actual tutorial video if you're going to build this:

[link]

Lolita Cuff Tutorial

Mon, 02 Jul 2012 16:27:41 PDT

I always have lace hanging around in my sewing box, because i make so much victorian/Lolita stuff, so i came up with a couple of ways to use it. I figured i'd share it, in case anyone else has a surplus of lace too.

Hope this is helpful to you guys. More polymer clay tutorials are on their way soon, and any tutorial suggestions are welcome.

If you use this tut, let me know, i'd love to see what you come up with.

Oh, and thanks to for taking the photos. ^^

Seadweller Fins Tutorial

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 17:56:10 PST

So yeah!
I don't think there are very many tutorials out there like this one and it always seems to be a problem for people, SO HERE IS A REALLY CHEAPY, EASY, ATTRACTIVE-LOOKING tutorial on how to do fins for the seadwellers from homestuck!
YEAH.

I'll be doing a Feferi and a Condesce cosplay at Ikkicon this New Year's! So FINS!!!

Stay tuned and I will finish this tutorial with sculpting and backing for people who are looking for a more realistic look!

EDIT: HOLY SHIT YOU GUYS THIS ISN'T THAT DIFFICULT A THING AND NOT CREATIVE AT ALL WHERE ARE ALL THESE FAVORITES COMING FROM ;A;
iloveyouallomgstop

Wire Embellishments Tutorial

Tue, 30 Nov 2010 14:58:27 PST

The tutorial that accompanies [link]

I figured people might just want to learn how to do some basic wirework. It's really easy and fun, just takes some practice. Embellishments can be used on anything, from jewellery to photo frames, so if anyone decides to try something based on this tutorial, leave a link! I'd love to see it

Jack Frost's hoodie - TUTORIAL

Mon, 14 Jan 2013 08:54:19 PST

I finally made a tutorial for you!

I nearly didn't post it.. thanks to everybody who encouraged me I did.

I hope it explains the process and I hope it can help you at least a bit. If you have questions please feel free to ask me. I don't bite :3

> tumblr: gekroent.tumblr.com
> tumblr ask-box: gekroent.tumblr.com/ask

Blood Elf Breastplate-TUTORIAL

Mon, 28 Jul 2008 12:29:40 PDT

UPDATE 4/20/11: I am in the process of making another one of these as a commission, and I will take some more detailed how-it's-made shots so those of you who want to try it yourself can get a better idea of how to go about making one. =]
As always, thanks to everyone for the many compliments on this!

3/24/10 - I finally made a tutorial for this project! It can be read below. Sorry it took so long!
*****************************************************
This project is actually a do-over because the original one turned out less than acceptable in my eyes. The original was made in October '07 for Halloween and was made with thin scrap leather and little time was invested in it, hence why it needed to be revamped. As it turned out, the remake became a rush project too because I had 3 days to make it in time for Anime Expo 2008, which was where it debuted. I started it on Wednesday, July 2nd around noon and worked on it 10-12 hours a day until Saturday morning when it was finally completed. Approximately 40 hours went into the completion of the breastplate alone, which is made from 10-15oz leather. The skirt took about 5 hours to make, the bracers about 2 hours, the shoulders took about 5 hours, the ears took about a half hour, and the belt took about 2 hours to make. All in all, there's over 50 hours worth of work that went into this costume and in my opinion, many parts of it could stand to be redone for quality purposes.
In any case, it turned out very nice considering the amount of time I put into it and I got a lot of compliments on it at the Expo. I'm proud of it!
I've added pictures of it during the assembly to my gallery as well.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[link]
*Pictures of me in the full costume at Anime Expo 2008*
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*****************************************************
TUTORIAL

This website and their store front locations have been exceedingly helpful in all my leather project endeavors, so I highly encourage anyone interested in learning leatherwork to check them out!

Tandy Leather Factory [link]

The most important part of the whole thing was making the pattern. If your pattern is crappy, your project will likely reflect that. The more perfect your pattern is, the better your finished product with turn out, plus making a pattern makes it easier to recreate it if you should ever wish to do another.

I used card stock (if you don't know what that is, it's basically the type of paper that 3x5 cards are made of but a little thicker and sold in big sheets about 2'x3'). I used one reference picture because that's all I could find, and I drew each piece in 2D form on paper so I had a better idea of what it would look like, and then started measuring myself to see the size of each piece. I drew each piece by hand onto the card stock and then cut it out and checked to see if the paper pattern fit properly. Hint: Symmetry is important when you're making patterns like this breastplate, so to ensure it's symmetrical, draw one side of the pattern and then fold it over EXACTLY in half and trace the outline of the side you already drew onto the blank side before cutting out the second side, that way both sides will be identical to each other. Once you are sure the pattern card is exactly the right shape and is very symmetrical, trace the pattern onto the material (I used leather for the breastplate, and I haven't used any other type of material for it, so this tutorial does not necessarily apply to other materials).
Depending on the thickness of the leather, you may need a special knife designed for cutting leather. Suggestion: Find a Tandy Leather store or Leather Factory near you if possible and get some help learning how to use leather tools, ESPECIALLY the sharp ones or you will risk serious injury. Leather is a unique material that sometimes requires special tools to work with it and there are very specific ways those tools should be used or they can be very dangerous, so please consider getting one-on-one help from a professional or experienced leatherworker if you attempt to make something like this for the first time.
I used pretty thick and stiff cowhide leather for this project, so I had to use a head knife [link] to cut out the pieces, but if you use thinner leather you may be able to get away with using heavy duty scissors, although your edges might be a little wavy. Either way, you can use what's called an edge beveler [link] and round off the edges so it looks a little cleaner and smoother.

After the leather pieces are cut out, they will need to be carved and tooled for a 3D effect. I used a pair of wing dividers [link] to draw the gold edges all the way around. NOTE: If you use wing dividers, it is highly recommended that you dull down the points or you will scratch the leather instead of making light grooves in it, and if you mess up, it will be hard to smooth out the scratches as opposed to smoothing out light groove marks. If you use this tool, set it to the width you want and don't change it because all the edges should be the same width. The only lines I did differently were the ones around the cups and the center line down the middle because the reference picture showed them that way. Some of the lines had to be drawn by hand.
For the by-hand parts (the gold edges that swirled or curled in or out), I traced the pattern onto a thin sheet of paper and sketched out the shape I wanted and then wet the leather and traced over the shape again with a ballpoint pen while the paper was fitted exactly to the leather, and when I removed the paper off the leather, the lines I drew were visible so I could use a carving tool over the lines later.
NOTE: Do not use a pen directly on the leather; it will be considerably more difficult to paint or dye over it if you do. Always use a pen-like tool (preferably metal, like a modeling clay sculpting tool) to make marks on your leather and don't push hard, just light enough to see the faint lines so you can use other tools over the lines.
Once the leather had all the lines grooved in with the modeling clay tool, I used a swivel knife [link] to trace over the lines I grooved so they are about halfway through the thickness of the leather. TAKE YOUR TIME ON THIS PART because if you screw up it's almost impossible to fix it and you will either have to start over (expensive and time costly), or your project will look messy.
After I traced over all my lines with the swivel knife, I used a hand tool called a beveler stamp [link] and stamped all the way around the lines I just carved with the swivel knife. Take care to stamp all the edges in the same way. For this breastplate, I wanted the gold edges to seem raised up, so I used the beveling stamp on the OUTSIDE of the gold edges (when you're looking at the picture of the breastplate, the stamp was used on the red side of the gold edges). I used a mallet [link] like this to use the beveling stamp tool and I went slow to make sure I didn't cross over the edges. When you use the beveling stamp, you should have the slanted edge down into the crack of the line you carved, holding the tool level (so the slanted part will make an angled dent in the leather, which will make the edge appear raised without having to smash down the entire inside part).
Next I used a bone folder [link] to smooth the stamp lines so it didn't look like I had used a tiny stamp a million times in a row on the edges. To use this tool, just rub it horizontally across the leather on the INSIDE of the edges (right over the stamp marks you just made) to smooth out any ridges made by the beveler stamp tool.
Now you are ready to paint the project.
I used acrylic paint, and no specific brand I've tried so far seems to work particularly better than another, however, I tend to use Americana brand acrylic paint because it is available in many colors at several different craft stores. When painting, make sure you test the color on a scrap piece of material before you buy a ton of it or paint the whole thing and realize that it isn't the right color. Try not to mix paints to create custom colors unless you are experienced because if you run out, you must recreate that custom color and it could make the project look bad if it's different shades.
Use nice quality paintbrushes if possible; it will make the paint job look much nicer and you'll be less likely to find brush bristles in your paint later. Use what's called a dry-brush technique... pour a little paint onto the brush or the area you are going to paint (slowly) and spread the paint continuously over the same section until the paint begins to dry. Continue brushing it in all directions very lightly until you can't see brush strokes anymore. Practice on scraps for a bit until you get this down, because although it's a small detail, it's details like this that separate amateurs from the pros!
Make sure to use acrylic sealer (available at craft stores) after the paint has dried COMPLETELY. Do not try to rush the paint drying, it usually turns out bad. I use MATTE acrylic sealer in a spray can because the glossy stuff makes it too shiny and in pictures light reflects off of it too much. Again, be sure to give the sealer plenty of time to dry in a well ventilated area (the fumes from that stuff are nasty, try to do it outside if at all possible).
Once all the pieces are done drying after their paint jobs, you can begin assembling them (assuming that there are multiple pieces to be attached to each other the way my breastplate was assembled). Be sure to spend lots of time putting each piece where it belongs before you permanently attach them because once you have punched holes they're hard to fix. Have someone help you fit the pieces to yourself or a mannequin so that they are symmetrical and even. Use the clay modeling tool to make faint marks to indicate where holes will be punched for rivets. Glue is helpful, but in projects like this, it is typically not used to hold the entire project together, even though leather contact cement is super strong, it is usually flexible too, and doesn't last forever when it's under the strain of being worn. I suggest using glue to temporarily hold pieces where you want them while you rivet the pieces together though, because they won't slip that way. Here is the kind of contact cement I use for my leather projects: [link]
When you decide where you want each piece to be riveted together, use a leather hole punch (I highly recommend this one -> [link] or [link] ) to make the holes for the rivets. I strongly recommend making the holes on the top piece first, then laying the top piece over the bottom pieces and marking a hole in the bottom piece using the top piece's hole as a guide so they line up perfectly. Be sure to check each piece two or three times (or more if you want to be extra cautious) BEFORE you punch holes.
I use double cap rivets [link] because they are easy to use, and when properly attached, last a long time and hold very securely, plus they aren't bulky. They come in nickel, gold, brass, and black and vary from small to large in size. I used large gold rivets for my breastplate because I was attaching two 10-12oz thick pieces of leather together (about 1/4" thick when put on top of each other). You can use a standard metal hammer and a hard solid surface (preferably a marble slab or a metal anvil [link] ) to set the rivets, or you can purchase a rivet setter which makes the rivets kind of domed [link] .
After you have all the pieces riveted together you may need to add things like straps and buckles depending on the project. If so, give yourself more material than you think you'll need just in case you mess up and need to cut some off. Practice with scraps first. Both straps should fit the width of the buckle comfortably and not be larger or a lot smaller than the width of the buckle. For example, if you have a buckle that is 3/4" wide, your straps should also be 3/4" wide. When you go to cut the hole for the buckle tongue to fit through, you will need to "crew a hole", which means you will make an oblong hole shaped kind of like this (====. Leave yourself about an inch or so of extra material on the end past the oblong hole so you can fold it over itself and rivet it down. The other strap will need to be a little longer (the idea is that the buckle will sit directly in the middle of the two straps, so measure accordingly), and it will need to have several evenly spaced holes punched into it so it can be adjusted. Start the first hole about 2in from the end of the strap, and make the holes approximately 1in apart and directly down the middle of the strap. A ruler will make this step easy. Buckles in many shapes, colors, and sizes can be found on Tandy's website here: [link] under BELT BUCKLES and craft stores like Michael's and JoAnn Fabrics will also have many buckles. Choose your buckles wisely, and check the measurements on them before buying them. If you can find a local craft store, I suggest going to it instead of ordering online so you can see what you're buying in person.
You can also choose to line your projects with soft leather like suede if the insides of them are going to come in direct contact with skin or delicate fabric (the backside of cowhide is a bit rough). If you want to line your project, put a moderate layer of leather contact cement on the back side of the project and also on the backside of the suede, let them both dry for a minute or two so they aren't super wet but are still tacky, then put the sticky sides together and trim off the excess around the edges with scissors.
And that's about it! I know the tutorial is long but hopefully it was detailed enough for you all to experiment and practice on your own. I tried to give links to every tool I used to make this project so you can make one too. Leather is a unique material and each piece of leather can be different than another. I highly recommend trying to purchase leather in person, not over the internet, because you will be able to feel it and see it and determine whether it's the right kind of material for your project.

Good luck to everyone! Feel free to message me with any questions.

Link Cosplay hat tutorial

Thu, 07 Apr 2011 02:29:07 PDT

This is - finally - the tutorial for my Link hat.
I promissed I would do tha a bit faster, but I have a lot in minde at the time so sorry for that...

Hope it can still help someone to get to his Link Cosplay! ^_^
Enjoy!
And of course feel free to ask, if there is anything not really understandable in that tutorial,...

Tutorial: GLASS CHARMS

Tue, 23 Dec 2008 14:01:32 PST

Hey guys!

So I finally finished another tutorial!
Since so many people asked I did a tutorial for the twilight glass charms I used for some bracelets. ^^

I hope you have fun with it, it's really not that difficult!

Wire wrapped pendant tutorial

Wed, 16 Feb 2011 05:24:56 PST

I was asked by friend to make a tutorial. I have no experiences with tutorials so I've done my bests to make it very clear. I'm sorry for my English, it may be wrong in some words.

You can use this tutorial but please let me know about it (send me link or wite a note), I would like to see your result.

Enjoy

pokemon bento tutorial

Wed, 21 Nov 2012 09:25:01 PST

TUTORIAL HERE:
[link]

i had a request to do another pokemon bento tutorial!!
SO this time i made buneary!

please check my channel to see my other pokemon bento!
[link]

Tutorial - Clopin's Mask

Sat, 21 May 2011 09:36:55 PDT

As promised, here's the tutorial of how I made the mask and beard to my Clopin cosplay.
---

This is now the second time I've made his mask and I've tried to cover any fiddly bits that might give you a bit of trouble. Learn from my mistakes!

This is by no means perfect. I have yet to find a way of attaching his beard that does not include peeling off a chunk of my skin to remove it, and I bruise the bridge of my nose if I wear the mask too long because the papier-mâché stiffens the plastic. However, it's a lot better than my first attempt and I'm quite pleased with it.

Hopefully this will help all you aspiring Clopin cosplayers.

Time taken: On-and-off this took me two days to finish (which explains the costume changes, spastic lighting, and random wet hair).

--Sak
Clopin Trouillefou (C) Victor Hugo/Walt Disney's Hunchback of Notre Dame

_{NOTE: Please don't ask how I made the hat, because that is one part of the costume I really don't want to have to remake any time soon, nor would I endorse making it the way I did. For those curious it's felt sewn over a wire base that I spent hours painstakingly sculpting myself. It holds the shape well but as a result the crown is also incredibly uncomfortable and a tad too small for my head. If someone has a better way of achieving such a bizarrely-shaped hat then I'd be grateful for any tips!}

Plaid Fabric Tutorial

Mon, 20 Dec 2010 00:11:27 PST

So I've had a few people ask me how I made Finny's pants, more specifically the plaid fabric the pants were made from. Since my Anchor tutorial seemed to be helpful I decided to do one for making plaid fabric as well.

Hope this helps someone! I'd love to know if it does so I know that the time making this was well spent. And again if anyone has any questions feel free to ask, I'll respond as soon as I can!

Good luck!

Edit - I forgot the put in the tutorial that you when you paint (kind of obvious so I didn't put it) it's just a thin layer enough to cover the fabric but still be able to see the weave under the layer.

Sewingstuck - Leggings Tutorial 01

Thu, 08 Nov 2012 18:22:11 PST

Part one of my leggings tutorial!!! WHOOOOAAAAA I'M HALF WAY THERE WHOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Polymer Clay : Banana Tutorial

Wed, 18 Jan 2012 04:48:58 PST

Super simple Banana tutorial !
Sorry the layout is so ugly.... TT ___ TT SO SORRY !

I hope the images are enough for you to know what to do, I added some instructions but, they're vague.

If you really don't know the steps, then my website has a more detailed post c:

Remember to bake !

This is made of Polymer clay:
Yellow- Dukit
White- Sculpey
Pale yellow- Sculpey in "Sunshine"

For more detail:
[link]