http://browse.deviantart.com/resources/tutorials/appreference/?order=9&q=simple+backgrounds deviantART RSS for boost:popular in:resources/tutorials/appreference simple backgrounds en-us Copyright 2013, deviantART.com Fri, 24 May 2013 14:40:37 PDT deviantART.com http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss http://st.deviantart.net/minish/widgets/apple-touch-icon-precomposed.png http://celsa.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-Painting-167401593 http://celsa.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-Painting-167401593 Sat, 12 Jun 2010 12:31:14 PDT Tutorial: Painting nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/painttoolsai Celsa http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/c/e/celsa.jpg?4 Copyright 2010-2013 ~Celsa http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/ Also, note this is NOT a SAI tutorial, so I won't explain the tools and so on. Just my coloring technique.

1. Starting

_{NOTE:I'm sorry, I typed 'staring' instead of 'starting' in the image file. It's very troublesome to fix, so I fear it'll be left like that T_T}

The very first thing to do is to open the sketch. For this technique you don't need it to be a clean lineart, since is a lineless or semi-lineless coloring. _{(You can use a clean lineart if you wan though, and adapt)}

Set the sketch layer as 'Multiply, so you see what's happening below, and name it to something easy to recognize ('sketch' in my case) for organization's sake.


2. Background

The first thing to paint it the BG. It's colors will influence everything else and create the general atmosphere, so choose carefully. It doesn'r matters if it's just some simple colors.

Make a new layer for it, below 'sketch', and again, name it.
In my case I choose warm colors, with bright red and pink since they create some 'agressive' mood.


3. Base colors

Next is the base colors. Make a new layer for it and name it too.

Here is where you add the base colors. Choose carefully, and take the BG colors into consideration, so it doesn't created a bad effect. You can test colors until you're satisfied; don't just add the first color that comes up.

Use a solid brush for it, not one that blends, or you may leave holes, or semi-transparent spaces.

It doesn't matter if you go out of the line, since you can erase later, but for the hair, is best to be careful, and paint it properly from the start, for it's some of the most troublesome parts.
You can 'blind' the 'sketch' layer to see how it's going anytime.

Also, make sure you save the base colors in the color grid. You will need to go back at them many times.
I do it in a way that i can add the different shades at the side later _{(I wish SAI had more grid space. But it's nice that you can order the colors)}

Also, I never use back, white or grey. I prefer a very light or dark color, but ALWAYS with a percentage of color in it. This is to avoid dullness.


4. Adding shades of color

Next is choosing and adding the other color shades. I do on the same layer, but you can create another if you want (it'll be troublesome for erasing later though)

This part is VERY important. I don't just choose a darker variant of the base color; I choose a different hue too. Like, if the base skin color was a yellowish salmon color, the next shade with be a bit more orangeish, and so on. Again, this is to avoit color dullness as well.
Add the shades to the grid, but you don't need to make a full gradiation, since we can blend and so make sub-color automatically. Just choose the main ones.

Add the different shades to the picture, marking the shaded part in a basic way. We'll detail and polish later.

Next thing I do is choosing and adding the compensation colors. This are complementary colors from the base colors, to add some color life to it. The drawing will stand out more.
I usually add 2 shades of compensation colors, in the form of either a reflection in the shaded parts, or just extra color in the shadows.
This is kind of personal touch, so it's hard to explain =_=

I add this color in the corresponding grid line, but in the opposite side.


5. Detailing and Lineart

Here is where we start polishing the drawing. Close in, and start detailing and polishing where you need to.
I don't like to blend too much, since I prefer the rough painting look. It gives a more 'alive' look. Still, for the skin is best not to abuse the roughness, or it may look the character has some extrange disease, specially in the face XD

Use a brush with a blending effect for this part, btw. I don't use the blenders. I just apply the color with this brush and blends naturally. You can always go back to the lighter color if you need.

Also the blending level is variable. Just modify it as you need. I like to use a high 'persistence' for it drags the colors in a way I like.

Here is where I add the few lines I use as well. I make another layer for it, and use another brush for it. Make it in Multiply mode as well.
Also, I use colors for the lines instead of black. It looks softer, and so not that weird in comparation to the lineless areas. But it's up to each one to decide.

As for where to add lines, I usually consider the face a must, since it's usually the most important area and where people looks most.
I laso tend to add it in light areas of clothes, but it depends on the drawing.

Now, between the lines and the polishing, the figure shouls be more and more clear. I fade the sketch gradually as the painting progress, until I blind it completely.
In any case, it's good to blind it ocasionally to see how things are going without it.


5.1 The hair

I'll mame a stop on the hair to explain it in more detail, since it's usually troublesome.

I usually prefer to paint it from dark to light, but it's pretty much a do, un-do and re-do thing.

First, remember I told you to put the base carefully? Well, thanks to that you can use the wonderful 'Preserve Opacity' option (if you're painting on the same layer, that's it)
This option avoids the transparent pixels automatically, so regardless of how careless you are, it'll stick to the base of color you did and nothing else.

Fir this illustration, I started by re-coloring the hair with the darker shade of the set colors I chose for the set.
Then I added the lighter parts witht he other colors of the set, to finally add some darker bits to create some 'hair shine' effect (a bit too soft in this drawing btw. They could be darker)
This effect is also used to paint metals; when you add a dark color near a light one veru abruptly, the contrast creates this 'metal' effect.

I finished by fixing the color compensation that was lost (the green/blue touches)


6. Finishing

Take a genearl look, and finish wathever need to be finished. You never know what you may forget _{I do tend to make important things =_=}

Also, it's time for cleaning. You should have the sketch layer in blind mode by now; you can make it viewable again to help with the erasing of the parts that went out of the 'line'

Once it's done make the sketch layer blind again, and save. It should be pretty much done.


7. Editing

If you need to make edits of any time, this is the time. In my case, I still needed to add Dino's tattoos, since I made them separately.

For editing, I recomend to switch to Photoshop if possible. It's awful for coloring, but it's the best for editing.

Well, now it's definitely finished


8. Tips

-Save a LOT
Seriously, save as often as you can. You never know what can happen. A blackout, and your progress is lost forever T_T

Save in .PSD file format
Well, not necessary, but you can open in Photoshop more easily (PS doesn't accepts certain formats, like Painter's own format)
This is a format that won't make a quality loss like .jpg and such

Don't merge the layers
Even if you're finished, don't do it. You never know if you'll need to go back to it. If it's the file size that's bothering you, just make a .jpg copy of it for easier use, but keep the original .pst intact.

Use high resolution
Since it allows for more detailing. But not too big, or you'll computer will drag.
Also, take into consideration the drawing you're painting; a face shot wouldn't need that much of a big canvas.

Adapt the brushes
Don't just stick to the defeault ones. Is best to experiment with the options, and see what suits you best. It's good to have your own set of personal brushes.

Rotate
SAI and Painter have a rotation tool that's easy to use. Abuse it! It's easier to paint some parts in different positions, since your hand can't rotate 180º

Use a different palette for each drawing
Don't stick to the same colors. Clean the grid, and choose new ones for each picture. You'll tend to use similar colors, but that doesn't means you have to use the exact same shade.

More realistic doesn't means better
Even the great ancient artsists didn't just 'copy' reality. They interpreted it.
Is best to have a personal style that makes your art unique and interesting.

Reference doesn't means copy
It's OK to use reference, but that means that you use several images to learn how something is, and later build soemthing new. Not just copy a photo. _{(actually, you should have a clear idea of what you are going to make BEFORE looking for reference)}.
Also, use photos as ref, not illustrations or drawings, or you'll end up just copying that particular artists style AND mistakes.
And if you can take the photos yourself, the best.


Well, I think that's all. If i'm forgetting something, or you need to ask anything, just comment here. ]]> Also, note this is NOT a SAI tutorial, so I won't explain the tools and so on. Just my coloring technique.

1. Starting

_{NOTE:I'm sorry, I typed 'staring' instead of 'starting' in the image file. It's very troublesome to fix, so I fear it'll be left like that T_T}

The very first thing to do is to open the sketch. For this technique you don't need it to be a clean lineart, since is a lineless or semi-lineless coloring. _{(You can use a clean lineart if you wan though, and adapt)}

Set the sketch layer as 'Multiply, so you see what's happening below, and name it to something easy to recognize ('sketch' in my case) for organization's sake.


2. Background

The first thing to paint it the BG. It's colors will influence everything else and create the general atmosphere, so choose carefully. It doesn'r matters if it's just some simple colors.

Make a new layer for it, below 'sketch', and again, name it.
In my case I choose warm colors, with bright red and pink since they create some 'agressive' mood.


3. Base colors

Next is the base colors. Make a new layer for it and name it too.

Here is where you add the base colors. Choose carefully, and take the BG colors into consideration, so it doesn't created a bad effect. You can test colors until you're satisfied; don't just add the first color that comes up.

Use a solid brush for it, not one that blends, or you may leave holes, or semi-transparent spaces.

It doesn't matter if you go out of the line, since you can erase later, but for the hair, is best to be careful, and paint it properly from the start, for it's some of the most troublesome parts.
You can 'blind' the 'sketch' layer to see how it's going anytime.

Also, make sure you save the base colors in the color grid. You will need to go back at them many times.
I do it in a way that i can add the different shades at the side later _{(I wish SAI had more grid space. But it's nice that you can order the colors)}

Also, I never use back, white or grey. I prefer a very light or dark color, but ALWAYS with a percentage of color in it. This is to avoid dullness.


4. Adding shades of color

Next is choosing and adding the other color shades. I do on the same layer, but you can create another if you want (it'll be troublesome for erasing later though)

This part is VERY important. I don't just choose a darker variant of the base color; I choose a different hue too. Like, if the base skin color was a yellowish salmon color, the next shade with be a bit more orangeish, and so on. Again, this is to avoit color dullness as well.
Add the shades to the grid, but you don't need to make a full gradiation, since we can blend and so make sub-color automatically. Just choose the main ones.

Add the different shades to the picture, marking the shaded part in a basic way. We'll detail and polish later.

Next thing I do is choosing and adding the compensation colors. This are complementary colors from the base colors, to add some color life to it. The drawing will stand out more.
I usually add 2 shades of compensation colors, in the form of either a reflection in the shaded parts, or just extra color in the shadows.
This is kind of personal touch, so it's hard to explain =_=

I add this color in the corresponding grid line, but in the opposite side.


5. Detailing and Lineart

Here is where we start polishing the drawing. Close in, and start detailing and polishing where you need to.
I don't like to blend too much, since I prefer the rough painting look. It gives a more 'alive' look. Still, for the skin is best not to abuse the roughness, or it may look the character has some extrange disease, specially in the face XD

Use a brush with a blending effect for this part, btw. I don't use the blenders. I just apply the color with this brush and blends naturally. You can always go back to the lighter color if you need.

Also the blending level is variable. Just modify it as you need. I like to use a high 'persistence' for it drags the colors in a way I like.

Here is where I add the few lines I use as well. I make another layer for it, and use another brush for it. Make it in Multiply mode as well.
Also, I use colors for the lines instead of black. It looks softer, and so not that weird in comparation to the lineless areas. But it's up to each one to decide.

As for where to add lines, I usually consider the face a must, since it's usually the most important area and where people looks most.
I laso tend to add it in light areas of clothes, but it depends on the drawing.

Now, between the lines and the polishing, the figure shouls be more and more clear. I fade the sketch gradually as the painting progress, until I blind it completely.
In any case, it's good to blind it ocasionally to see how things are going without it.


5.1 The hair

I'll mame a stop on the hair to explain it in more detail, since it's usually troublesome.

I usually prefer to paint it from dark to light, but it's pretty much a do, un-do and re-do thing.

First, remember I told you to put the base carefully? Well, thanks to that you can use the wonderful 'Preserve Opacity' option (if you're painting on the same layer, that's it)
This option avoids the transparent pixels automatically, so regardless of how careless you are, it'll stick to the base of color you did and nothing else.

Fir this illustration, I started by re-coloring the hair with the darker shade of the set colors I chose for the set.
Then I added the lighter parts witht he other colors of the set, to finally add some darker bits to create some 'hair shine' effect (a bit too soft in this drawing btw. They could be darker)
This effect is also used to paint metals; when you add a dark color near a light one veru abruptly, the contrast creates this 'metal' effect.

I finished by fixing the color compensation that was lost (the green/blue touches)


6. Finishing

Take a genearl look, and finish wathever need to be finished. You never know what you may forget _{I do tend to make important things =_=}

Also, it's time for cleaning. You should have the sketch layer in blind mode by now; you can make it viewable again to help with the erasing of the parts that went out of the 'line'

Once it's done make the sketch layer blind again, and save. It should be pretty much done.


7. Editing

If you need to make edits of any time, this is the time. In my case, I still needed to add Dino's tattoos, since I made them separately.

For editing, I recomend to switch to Photoshop if possible. It's awful for coloring, but it's the best for editing.

Well, now it's definitely finished


8. Tips

-Save a LOT
Seriously, save as often as you can. You never know what can happen. A blackout, and your progress is lost forever T_T

Save in .PSD file format
Well, not necessary, but you can open in Photoshop more easily (PS doesn't accepts certain formats, like Painter's own format)
This is a format that won't make a quality loss like .jpg and such

Don't merge the layers
Even if you're finished, don't do it. You never know if you'll need to go back to it. If it's the file size that's bothering you, just make a .jpg copy of it for easier use, but keep the original .pst intact.

Use high resolution
Since it allows for more detailing. But not too big, or you'll computer will drag.
Also, take into consideration the drawing you're painting; a face shot wouldn't need that much of a big canvas.

Adapt the brushes
Don't just stick to the defeault ones. Is best to experiment with the options, and see what suits you best. It's good to have your own set of personal brushes.

Rotate
SAI and Painter have a rotation tool that's easy to use. Abuse it! It's easier to paint some parts in different positions, since your hand can't rotate 180º

Use a different palette for each drawing
Don't stick to the same colors. Clean the grid, and choose new ones for each picture. You'll tend to use similar colors, but that doesn't means you have to use the exact same shade.

More realistic doesn't means better
Even the great ancient artsists didn't just 'copy' reality. They interpreted it.
Is best to have a personal style that makes your art unique and interesting.

Reference doesn't means copy
It's OK to use reference, but that means that you use several images to learn how something is, and later build soemthing new. Not just copy a photo. _{(actually, you should have a clear idea of what you are going to make BEFORE looking for reference)}.
Also, use photos as ref, not illustrations or drawings, or you'll end up just copying that particular artists style AND mistakes.
And if you can take the photos yourself, the best.


Well, I think that's all. If i'm forgetting something, or you need to ask anything, just comment here.

]]> http://leivre.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-for-Beginners-1-11676534 http://leivre.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-for-Beginners-1-11676534 Sat, 23 Oct 2004 19:31:06 PDT Photoshop for Beginners 1 nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Leivre http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/l/e/leivre.gif Copyright 2004-2013 ~Leivre Who this tutorial is for: I tried to make this for anyone who is just starting out learning how to color images in Adobe Photoshop (meaning mainly beginners), and for people need a basic starting point to work up from. This is not going to go into depth on shading techniques, etc. but will instead focus on giving you the needed tools so you can shade without affecting your line art, and to shade without affecting other shading. Hopefully you will be able to look at your image in smaller, more workable pieces rather than one large, intimidating entity. So enjoy! ^^

Tools used to make tutorial:
Photoshop 7.0
Wacom Intuos 2 Tablet
Pre-completed Image (My Reverie) for walkthrough (which took approx. 3 - 8 hours work to complete)

SAVE OFTEN IN YOUR WORK!
I cannot stress this enough! If you made a large change, and aren’t sure if you want to keep it, just File -> Save As a different file!

*~*~*~*

Steps:

1. Open your image in Photoshop. If you scanned it in at a large size, or your computer tends to run slowly, I suggest resizing it to a more workable size. I usually resize my images down to the 2000 pixels along one side; this is large enough that I can get details I want in, but not too large that my computer is bogged down after every edit. Resize your image by going to Image -> Image Size. Make sure the “Constrains Proportions” check box is checked. This’ll stop wild distortions from happening

2. **This is an extra, optional step. Normally, I always change the levels of my image right off the bat. I find that scanning can sometimes deteriorate the blackness of my lines, and changing the levels will restore it. Go to Image -> Adjustments -> Levels. A pop-up menu will appear. Near the bottom right corner are three eye dropper icons that you can use. Select the black eye dropper (furthest left). Now choose a part of your faded black line and click on it. It’s best if you don’t choose a really light part of the line, since it’s going to darken everything with lesser values; choose a part that is relatively dark to begin with. You may also select the white eye dropper (furthest right) and click on a light section of your image. Hit the OK if you’re satisfied with what you’ve got, or hit Cancel if you’re not.

3. As of right now, if you tried to color your image, you would end up removing your line art. If you used the Magic Wand and Paint Bucket tools, it would leave gaps without coloring, making your picture look messy. If you made new layers on top, it would still cover your line art! Sucky, neh? Well, Steps 3 to 5 include a relatively simple method for separating your line art from the white space, so you can work without hurting your precious lines! Currently you’re sitting with just the Background layer in the Layers menu. Go to Layer -> Duplicate Layer. Make a copy of your Background. Rename it “Line art”.

4. Currently Line art is your selected layer. Reselect Background. Press the New Layer button (circled in the #4 step image). An empty layer will now sit between your two background copies.

5. Select the layer Line art. Go to Layer -> Layer Style -> Blending Options (you can also access Blending Options by quickly double clicking on the layer). This will open a new pop-up menu filled with exciting options! The menu has a heading named General Blending with a drop down menu beneath it. In the drop down menu is a choice called Multiply. Pick it and hit OK. Multiply makes all your dark values on lower layers darker, and all white values on Line art transparent. You can now color without affecting the lines! Delete Background from your Layer window, select your empty layer, and use the Paint Bucket tool to fill it with white. Rename this layer “White”. Your image now looks the same as before you did Multiply, but you are free to color without hurting the lines.

6. Between the Line art and White layers, I suggest making a whole whack of new layers. Rename all the layers so they reflect which part of the image they include eg: Hair base, Skin base, etc. Use the Brush tool and paint in the base colors for all the areas of the image in their own, separate layers. This will work in case that you change your mind on a color later on. **Optional: Since you can set a color to a layer (which will not appear in the layer, but by the layer name), you may also set a color to each of the base layers. After lots of shading layers are added, I find this really helps me select out which layers are bases and which are shading. To change the color, go to Layer -> Layer Properties. A drop down menu will hold all your color options.**

7. After placing in all your image’s base colors, make two new layers above each base layer. Rename each of the two: one Shadows and the other Highlights. This will be where you do your shading for each part of the image! Highlights will include any shading that lightens your image, and Shadows any that darken it. Do not do your shading directly onto your base layer; any changes you may want to make later will be much harder and more frustrating for you! When in doubt, make a new layer

8. Set your brush to soft edges for shading objects, and to an opacity less than 100% (I usually stay around 15 – 35% opacity when shading). A partial opacity makes it so you can go over an area and darken it until you see fit, rather than start with pure black. You may also change your brush color to what you want; shadows do not to be basic black, nor highlights only white. If you happen to go outside of the area you want to shade, just use the Eraser tool and remove of the shading. Shading can (and probably should) take a long time to complete, so don't worry about rushing through the shading bit. Take your time and do it so you like it.

9. As a minor note, make sure you pick a definite light source for your image, and shade accordingly. In My Reverie (the picture being used throughout the tutorial), the main light source was the candelabra in her hand, while a minor one was from beneath the door behind her. Light areas on an object are the sides closest to the light source, and shadows furthest from the light source. I usually start by putting all the shadows in for only ONE part of a picture, then moving on and doing all the highlights as well. Feel free to make more than just one layer for shadows or highlights on one object; I use anywhere from 1 to 10 for each, depending on its depth ^_^ Shade your image until you are pleased with it.

10. Now to make sure you covered all the small details! Eyes (realistic or otherwise) have shine spots in them where light is caught, metallic objects have glints of light, and glass-like objects have shine spots and shadows within them. In My Reverie, I added more light beneath the door, more light from the candelabra, and more highlights in the eyes. Once again, check over all the details until you are pleased with them.

11. The only thing left to do to your image is flatten and resize (optional). Flattening your image is required if you wish to save it as something other than a PSD file (Photoshop’s file type). The most common files for saving are GIF and JPG – I only use JPG for my images, since it keeps the colors better than GIF. I recommend saving right before you decide to flatten your image, because sometimes you'll later see things that you want to change, and having your layers intact make it all the easier to fix. To flatten, go to Layers -> Flatten Image. Smush! – all your layers are gone, and you’re free to save your image as whatever file type you like. You may also resize your image if it is too large for your liking; just repeat the steps given in Step 1. To give you an idea, I resize my images to somewhere between 700 – 1000 pixels on its largest side.

*~*~*~*

Well, there you have it. My first tutorial! If there are any parts where I’m not making sense, or need to explain myself, just tell me in a comment or note and I’ll do what I can to fix it. I'm also working on making another tutorial that will cover the use of Layer Masks, which'll help out the shading part of your image.

Feedback is more than welcome! Send me a note if you have any questions. Happy painting ]]> Who this tutorial is for: I tried to make this for anyone who is just starting out learning how to color images in Adobe Photoshop (meaning mainly beginners), and for people need a basic starting point to work up from. This is not going to go into depth on shading techniques, etc. but will instead focus on giving you the needed tools so you can shade without affecting your line art, and to shade without affecting other shading. Hopefully you will be able to look at your image in smaller, more workable pieces rather than one large, intimidating entity. So enjoy! ^^

Tools used to make tutorial:
Photoshop 7.0
Wacom Intuos 2 Tablet
Pre-completed Image (My Reverie) for walkthrough (which took approx. 3 - 8 hours work to complete)

SAVE OFTEN IN YOUR WORK!
I cannot stress this enough! If you made a large change, and aren’t sure if you want to keep it, just File -> Save As a different file!

*~*~*~*

Steps:

1. Open your image in Photoshop. If you scanned it in at a large size, or your computer tends to run slowly, I suggest resizing it to a more workable size. I usually resize my images down to the 2000 pixels along one side; this is large enough that I can get details I want in, but not too large that my computer is bogged down after every edit. Resize your image by going to Image -> Image Size. Make sure the “Constrains Proportions” check box is checked. This’ll stop wild distortions from happening

2. **This is an extra, optional step. Normally, I always change the levels of my image right off the bat. I find that scanning can sometimes deteriorate the blackness of my lines, and changing the levels will restore it. Go to Image -> Adjustments -> Levels. A pop-up menu will appear. Near the bottom right corner are three eye dropper icons that you can use. Select the black eye dropper (furthest left). Now choose a part of your faded black line and click on it. It’s best if you don’t choose a really light part of the line, since it’s going to darken everything with lesser values; choose a part that is relatively dark to begin with. You may also select the white eye dropper (furthest right) and click on a light section of your image. Hit the OK if you’re satisfied with what you’ve got, or hit Cancel if you’re not.

3. As of right now, if you tried to color your image, you would end up removing your line art. If you used the Magic Wand and Paint Bucket tools, it would leave gaps without coloring, making your picture look messy. If you made new layers on top, it would still cover your line art! Sucky, neh? Well, Steps 3 to 5 include a relatively simple method for separating your line art from the white space, so you can work without hurting your precious lines! Currently you’re sitting with just the Background layer in the Layers menu. Go to Layer -> Duplicate Layer. Make a copy of your Background. Rename it “Line art”.

4. Currently Line art is your selected layer. Reselect Background. Press the New Layer button (circled in the #4 step image). An empty layer will now sit between your two background copies.

5. Select the layer Line art. Go to Layer -> Layer Style -> Blending Options (you can also access Blending Options by quickly double clicking on the layer). This will open a new pop-up menu filled with exciting options! The menu has a heading named General Blending with a drop down menu beneath it. In the drop down menu is a choice called Multiply. Pick it and hit OK. Multiply makes all your dark values on lower layers darker, and all white values on Line art transparent. You can now color without affecting the lines! Delete Background from your Layer window, select your empty layer, and use the Paint Bucket tool to fill it with white. Rename this layer “White”. Your image now looks the same as before you did Multiply, but you are free to color without hurting the lines.

6. Between the Line art and White layers, I suggest making a whole whack of new layers. Rename all the layers so they reflect which part of the image they include eg: Hair base, Skin base, etc. Use the Brush tool and paint in the base colors for all the areas of the image in their own, separate layers. This will work in case that you change your mind on a color later on. **Optional: Since you can set a color to a layer (which will not appear in the layer, but by the layer name), you may also set a color to each of the base layers. After lots of shading layers are added, I find this really helps me select out which layers are bases and which are shading. To change the color, go to Layer -> Layer Properties. A drop down menu will hold all your color options.**

7. After placing in all your image’s base colors, make two new layers above each base layer. Rename each of the two: one Shadows and the other Highlights. This will be where you do your shading for each part of the image! Highlights will include any shading that lightens your image, and Shadows any that darken it. Do not do your shading directly onto your base layer; any changes you may want to make later will be much harder and more frustrating for you! When in doubt, make a new layer

8. Set your brush to soft edges for shading objects, and to an opacity less than 100% (I usually stay around 15 – 35% opacity when shading). A partial opacity makes it so you can go over an area and darken it until you see fit, rather than start with pure black. You may also change your brush color to what you want; shadows do not to be basic black, nor highlights only white. If you happen to go outside of the area you want to shade, just use the Eraser tool and remove of the shading. Shading can (and probably should) take a long time to complete, so don't worry about rushing through the shading bit. Take your time and do it so you like it.

9. As a minor note, make sure you pick a definite light source for your image, and shade accordingly. In My Reverie (the picture being used throughout the tutorial), the main light source was the candelabra in her hand, while a minor one was from beneath the door behind her. Light areas on an object are the sides closest to the light source, and shadows furthest from the light source. I usually start by putting all the shadows in for only ONE part of a picture, then moving on and doing all the highlights as well. Feel free to make more than just one layer for shadows or highlights on one object; I use anywhere from 1 to 10 for each, depending on its depth ^_^ Shade your image until you are pleased with it.

10. Now to make sure you covered all the small details! Eyes (realistic or otherwise) have shine spots in them where light is caught, metallic objects have glints of light, and glass-like objects have shine spots and shadows within them. In My Reverie, I added more light beneath the door, more light from the candelabra, and more highlights in the eyes. Once again, check over all the details until you are pleased with them.

11. The only thing left to do to your image is flatten and resize (optional). Flattening your image is required if you wish to save it as something other than a PSD file (Photoshop’s file type). The most common files for saving are GIF and JPG – I only use JPG for my images, since it keeps the colors better than GIF. I recommend saving right before you decide to flatten your image, because sometimes you'll later see things that you want to change, and having your layers intact make it all the easier to fix. To flatten, go to Layers -> Flatten Image. Smush! – all your layers are gone, and you’re free to save your image as whatever file type you like. You may also resize your image if it is too large for your liking; just repeat the steps given in Step 1. To give you an idea, I resize my images to somewhere between 700 – 1000 pixels on its largest side.

*~*~*~*

Well, there you have it. My first tutorial! If there are any parts where I’m not making sense, or need to explain myself, just tell me in a comment or note and I’ll do what I can to fix it. I'm also working on making another tutorial that will cover the use of Layer Masks, which'll help out the shading part of your image.

Feedback is more than welcome! Send me a note if you have any questions. Happy painting

]]> http://pattyd.deviantart.com/art/Moon-Tutorial-21438221 http://pattyd.deviantart.com/art/Moon-Tutorial-21438221 Sat, 06 Aug 2005 12:15:16 PDT Moon Tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop PattyD http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/p/a/pattyd.gif Copyright 2005-2013 ~PattyD
Now, the sky is kindof a background, and as there's no point in waisting a good background, I've used it!:
[link] ]]>
Now, the sky is kindof a background, and as there's no point in waisting a good background, I've used it!:
[link]

]]> http://antitimett.deviantart.com/art/Antitime-s-Paint-tool-Sai-grass-tutorial-271683561 http://antitimett.deviantart.com/art/Antitime-s-Paint-tool-Sai-grass-tutorial-271683561 Wed, 30 Nov 2011 08:02:23 PST Antitime's Paint tool Sai grass tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/painttoolsai AntitimeTT http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/a/n/antitimett.gif?4 Copyright 2011-2013 ~AntitimeTT
Notes on coloring this type of grass- usually all it takes is a simple gradient, because there's so much detail already. If you try to paint every single blade it usually comes out muddy. But how you color is really up to you. ]]>
Notes on coloring this type of grass- usually all it takes is a simple gradient, because there's so much detail already. If you try to paint every single blade it usually comes out muddy. But how you color is really up to you.

]]> http://zyclone.deviantart.com/art/Planet-Tutorial-12874633 http://zyclone.deviantart.com/art/Planet-Tutorial-12874633 Sat, 04 Dec 2004 04:12:53 PST Planet Tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop zyclone http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/z/y/zyclone.gif Copyright 2004-2013 ~zyclone simple planets. For more advacned and detailed techniques visit Alyn's Advacned Planet Tut. This is designed to give new space artists an idea of how to develop their skills and for making less detailed background planets. There are probably loads of errors, so please tell me if you find a problem.

The atmosphere technique was originally covered by +dinyctis so credits to him there. For more details on cloud brushing see UCD's Land Planet Tutorial . Thanks to all the inspirational artists out there who got me into space art and especailly r4z0r for being an awesome community.

Enjoy! ]]> simple planets. For more advacned and detailed techniques visit Alyn's Advacned Planet Tut. This is designed to give new space artists an idea of how to develop their skills and for making less detailed background planets. There are probably loads of errors, so please tell me if you find a problem.

The atmosphere technique was originally covered by +dinyctis so credits to him there. For more details on cloud brushing see UCD's Land Planet Tutorial . Thanks to all the inspirational artists out there who got me into space art and especailly r4z0r for being an awesome community.

Enjoy!

]]> http://avernal.deviantart.com/art/Natural-Backgrounds-Cavern-21608561 http://avernal.deviantart.com/art/Natural-Backgrounds-Cavern-21608561 Wed, 10 Aug 2005 21:04:52 PDT Natural Backgrounds - Cavern nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Avernal http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/a/v/avernal.gif Copyright 2005-2013 ~Avernal
Edit: It wasn't obvious how you view the tutorial, it's actually all compiled into a tidy little HTML page with steps and illustrations, I've archived this into a ZIP file. So to view it, all you need do is hit the "download to desktop" button and extract the files somewhere. ]]>
Edit: It wasn't obvious how you view the tutorial, it's actually all compiled into a tidy little HTML page with steps and illustrations, I've archived this into a ZIP file. So to view it, all you need do is hit the "download to desktop" button and extract the files somewhere.

]]> http://fence-post.deviantart.com/art/GIMP-Matrix-Effect-Part-II-44975729 http://fence-post.deviantart.com/art/GIMP-Matrix-Effect-Part-II-44975729 Mon, 18 Dec 2006 21:35:11 PST GIMP Matrix Effect Part II nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/thegimp fence-post http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/f/e/fence-post.jpg Copyright 2006-2013 ~fence-post http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/ [link]

The GIMP Animation Package is not required for this tutorial.

The tutorial is in html format. So, just download the zip file to a convenient location, like your desktop. Double-click the zip file and move the html file and the "files" folder to your desktop (the files folder and html file must be in the same location for the images to show up.) Double-click the html file and the tutorial will open.

Although nothing is required for you to download and use this tutorial, giving me a fave would be a simple way to show your thanks. Just click the Add to Favorites link on the left side of the page, near the top. You don't even have to give me comments. Come on, people, show a little bit of love for someone who takes the time and effort to do the hard work of preparing these tutorials for your enjoyment and learning.

Enjoy!

Art ]]> [link]

The GIMP Animation Package is not required for this tutorial.

The tutorial is in html format. So, just download the zip file to a convenient location, like your desktop. Double-click the zip file and move the html file and the "files" folder to your desktop (the files folder and html file must be in the same location for the images to show up.) Double-click the html file and the tutorial will open.

Although nothing is required for you to download and use this tutorial, giving me a fave would be a simple way to show your thanks. Just click the Add to Favorites link on the left side of the page, near the top. You don't even have to give me comments. Come on, people, show a little bit of love for someone who takes the time and effort to do the hard work of preparing these tutorials for your enjoyment and learning.

Enjoy!

Art

]]> http://minuet-melody.deviantart.com/art/Paint-Tool-SAI-Eye-Tutorial-2-262463320 http://minuet-melody.deviantart.com/art/Paint-Tool-SAI-Eye-Tutorial-2-262463320 Sat, 08 Oct 2011 23:17:01 PDT Paint Tool SAI Eye Tutorial 2 nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/painttoolsai Minuet-Melody http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/m/i/minuet-melody.gif?13 Copyright 2011-2013 *Minuet-Melody
<sub>Some of you were interested in an updated tutorial.

Here it is! Hopefully it's simple and easy to follow. If you need any help, or have questions for me - feel free to ask! I will be happy to answer

I've even added a bonus to the tutorial - just in case anyone was curious how I make parts of the eye transparent.

I made this using Paint Tool SAI, but it may work with other art programs that use layers, a blur tool and clipping layers.

Let me know if it works for you in another program besides Paint Tool SAI!

--------------------------

Step 1

Begin by selecting your "Upper" layer.
Use the ink pen to make a curved line.
Create a gradient effect with dark colors.

Step 2

Select your "Lower" layer.
Repeat the same process, but with lighter colors.

Step 3

Use the blur tool on each layer to blend the colors together.

Step 4-9

Same process, but showing how it was done with the other eye. Start with the "Upper" layer first then the "Lower" layer!
Blend your colors together.

Step 10

Select your "Pupil" layer.
Make a curved line however you desire it to be.
The girl is looking to the right. I drew my curved line based on that. Any other time I would make a full half circle shaped line. (EX: [link])

The left eye shows the before process and the right eye shows the after result. I like to make my curved line appear more "full" in certain areas.

I add shiny dots to the eyes at this point. Add as desired!

Step 11

Merge your layers together.
Make a copy of the layer.
Hide the copy.
Lower the opacity on the visible layer.

Step 12

Erase parts of the eye that touch the skin.
Hide this layer then continue to the next step.

Step 13

Make your copy layer of the eyes visible.
Lower the opacity of it.
Erase parts that touch the hair now.
Make the opacity 100% again.

Make your other layer visible and adjust the opacity as desired.

All finished! This is how I do my eyes, there are many ways to color eyes. I do not claim to have the "right" technique. Feel free to use this style for yourself

If you do try out this tutorial, you can show me your results if you'd like just leave a link in the comments~

Thanks for reading and I hope this helps someone!

Artwork featured in this tutorial is a WIP (C) *horohoroXemi
Tutorial and background image (C) *horohoroXemi


No stealing!</sub> ]]>
<sub>Some of you were interested in an updated tutorial.

Here it is! Hopefully it's simple and easy to follow. If you need any help, or have questions for me - feel free to ask! I will be happy to answer

I've even added a bonus to the tutorial - just in case anyone was curious how I make parts of the eye transparent.

I made this using Paint Tool SAI, but it may work with other art programs that use layers, a blur tool and clipping layers.

Let me know if it works for you in another program besides Paint Tool SAI!

--------------------------

Step 1

Begin by selecting your "Upper" layer.
Use the ink pen to make a curved line.
Create a gradient effect with dark colors.

Step 2

Select your "Lower" layer.
Repeat the same process, but with lighter colors.

Step 3

Use the blur tool on each layer to blend the colors together.

Step 4-9

Same process, but showing how it was done with the other eye. Start with the "Upper" layer first then the "Lower" layer!
Blend your colors together.

Step 10

Select your "Pupil" layer.
Make a curved line however you desire it to be.
The girl is looking to the right. I drew my curved line based on that. Any other time I would make a full half circle shaped line. (EX: [link])

The left eye shows the before process and the right eye shows the after result. I like to make my curved line appear more "full" in certain areas.

I add shiny dots to the eyes at this point. Add as desired!

Step 11

Merge your layers together.
Make a copy of the layer.
Hide the copy.
Lower the opacity on the visible layer.

Step 12

Erase parts of the eye that touch the skin.
Hide this layer then continue to the next step.

Step 13

Make your copy layer of the eyes visible.
Lower the opacity of it.
Erase parts that touch the hair now.
Make the opacity 100% again.

Make your other layer visible and adjust the opacity as desired.

All finished! This is how I do my eyes, there are many ways to color eyes. I do not claim to have the "right" technique. Feel free to use this style for yourself

If you do try out this tutorial, you can show me your results if you'd like just leave a link in the comments~

Thanks for reading and I hope this helps someone!

Artwork featured in this tutorial is a WIP (C) *horohoroXemi
Tutorial and background image (C) *horohoroXemi


No stealing!</sub>

]]> http://drracowong.deviantart.com/art/Simple-colouring-tutorial-19173513 http://drracowong.deviantart.com/art/Simple-colouring-tutorial-19173513 Tue, 07 Jun 2005 04:32:04 PDT Simple colouring tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop drracowong http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/d/r/drracowong.gif Copyright 2005-2013 ~drracowong

#A#
When you want to colour a picture that you have ink or done in pencil, the picture that you scan maybe not clear or blur. So to make your picture more clear for you to colour, go to Image tab at photoshop --> select Levels and then the Level tool box will appear, from there select the 2 side bar to adjust the colour brightness and darkness. I didnt show you this because i want you to have some experince in playing around with that until you got a good dark line images like the one i done.

#B#
Then after that is done, go to the Layer option and click the button like paper lift up a little to the side. After you click that you have created a new layer to the above the orignal of the picture which will be name as "Layer 1", select that layer and then click the pull down menu at the top to select the option "Multiply". By doing so if you colour something to that new layer, the colour will not cover up or erased your picture, try to colour the whole picture or use paint bucket to colour the scene of the new layer. I use green as a background colour.

#C#
Select back to your original picture that is not coloured by the background and select "Magic Wand Tool" short cut key is "w". When you done so, click the above button looks like two square stick together, by doing so you can select multiple part of the image that you want to colour to the character, else if not it just let you select one part only. After you have selected the part that you wanted to colour to the character, go back to the layer option and select back the the layer you have colour for the background and use paint bucket to colour the character that you have selected.

#D#
Now to make shading, pick the colour which is darker then the original character colour because we need to add some shadow to the character. Use a brush which is the side is slightly blur then the fully clean circle dot. After that do your stuff with the shadow of the character. Some people like to make the lighting first but is the same doesnt matter which one start first. Oh by the way dont diselect the area that you have selected for the character, we still need it to so you wont be colouring out of the character area. You can hide the selected area blinking by "ctrl + h".

#E#
After you done with the shadow, now the time to do with the lightning effect. First choose the "Dodge tool", you can adjust the exposure so it wont be too bright and then do your stuff with the bright erea of the character.

#F#
Is the same thing i done in step "E" but this time i select the "Burn Tool" to make the shadow slightly abit darker, if you cant find it try hold down on the "Dodge tool" until it pop up some new selection.

#G#
Well this is the final step and also the fun step, as you can see the character looks kinda empty and plain rite? Hehe is time to give thie lizard some new look. First you make another layer on top of the colour layer and select it. Then the rest is up to you want to put up some stripes or stains or spots to the character. Have fun and experiment with it until you like it.

I have done 3 example for you to see, just let your imagination run wild for this because i know there is alot of different dino out there, hehe maybe you can come up something new ]]>

#A#
When you want to colour a picture that you have ink or done in pencil, the picture that you scan maybe not clear or blur. So to make your picture more clear for you to colour, go to Image tab at photoshop --> select Levels and then the Level tool box will appear, from there select the 2 side bar to adjust the colour brightness and darkness. I didnt show you this because i want you to have some experince in playing around with that until you got a good dark line images like the one i done.

#B#
Then after that is done, go to the Layer option and click the button like paper lift up a little to the side. After you click that you have created a new layer to the above the orignal of the picture which will be name as "Layer 1", select that layer and then click the pull down menu at the top to select the option "Multiply". By doing so if you colour something to that new layer, the colour will not cover up or erased your picture, try to colour the whole picture or use paint bucket to colour the scene of the new layer. I use green as a background colour.

#C#
Select back to your original picture that is not coloured by the background and select "Magic Wand Tool" short cut key is "w". When you done so, click the above button looks like two square stick together, by doing so you can select multiple part of the image that you want to colour to the character, else if not it just let you select one part only. After you have selected the part that you wanted to colour to the character, go back to the layer option and select back the the layer you have colour for the background and use paint bucket to colour the character that you have selected.

#D#
Now to make shading, pick the colour which is darker then the original character colour because we need to add some shadow to the character. Use a brush which is the side is slightly blur then the fully clean circle dot. After that do your stuff with the shadow of the character. Some people like to make the lighting first but is the same doesnt matter which one start first. Oh by the way dont diselect the area that you have selected for the character, we still need it to so you wont be colouring out of the character area. You can hide the selected area blinking by "ctrl + h".

#E#
After you done with the shadow, now the time to do with the lightning effect. First choose the "Dodge tool", you can adjust the exposure so it wont be too bright and then do your stuff with the bright erea of the character.

#F#
Is the same thing i done in step "E" but this time i select the "Burn Tool" to make the shadow slightly abit darker, if you cant find it try hold down on the "Dodge tool" until it pop up some new selection.

#G#
Well this is the final step and also the fun step, as you can see the character looks kinda empty and plain rite? Hehe is time to give thie lizard some new look. First you make another layer on top of the colour layer and select it. Then the rest is up to you want to put up some stripes or stains or spots to the character. Have fun and experiment with it until you like it.

I have done 3 example for you to see, just let your imagination run wild for this because i know there is alot of different dino out there, hehe maybe you can come up something new

]]> http://leadmare.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-Tutorial-107406324 http://leadmare.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-Tutorial-107406324 Thu, 25 Dec 2008 17:36:28 PST Photoshop Tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Leadmare http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/l/e/leadmare.gif?9 Copyright 2008-2013 ~Leadmare
Anyways, this is for people who HAVE PHOTOSHOP ONLY . You do NOT need to have a tablet so no worries; although a tablet helps a LOT with the small details that you want to fix. This tutorial is more like a "trick" for those people who don't have tablets and make sketches in pencil and later color it with photoshop Not too long ago I figure my own way to do this in a very simple and fun way.
All ready? Let's get started



After you've sketched your drawing with pencil, make sure that you use a pen (any black pen) to trace the lines and so that is easier to use Once the pen is dried, you may erase the pencil with an eraser and you'll have your lineart.

1. You'll open your photoshop and your drawing [link]

2. When you pick your brushes, you'll see Mode. From there you'll pick Exclusion. Make sure you have a WHITE color for your brush. [link]

3. With that set up, you'll color all of your lineart [link] And notice how the black lineart will turn white.

4. Once that's done, you'll add a New Layer . Make sure to change the brush color to black. ( you may rename the layer such as Layer 1 so that you're more organized and don't get confused. ) [link]

5. You'll begin to trace the white lines with the black brush. [link] The more you zoom in, the better and easier to see.

6. Once you're done, it should look something like this [link] . Therefore you'll click on Background and click on eraser. Erase EVERYTHING. [link]

7. After step 6, it should look like this [link] This is the "Lineart" layer. Then, on the layers you'll right click and "Duplicate Layer" [link]

8. You're finally ready to color. With the Wand , you'll be able to color more easily. [link] [Make sure you're no longer on the background, OR Layer 1 (lineart), but on the 2nd layer (Colored Layer 1) ]

9. On Colored Layer 1, you'll color your drawing--keep it all basic. NO shading or highlights. [link] I don't recommend you to color the mane/tail and eyes just yet.

10. After you're done, duplicate the Colored Layer 1 and rename it as Colored Layer 2. [link]

11. On Colored Layer 2 , you'll do the shading and highlights. To start off with the shadow, you have to make sure that for every color that you want to tone down, it has to have the right base color. For example, as you can see here [link] you have the horse's coat as brown. Therefore the only thing you need to change is the Mode to Multiply. Try to color one part all at once because if you try color it again, it will turn into a much darker brown color. If it's too complicated, try to shade the parts very lightly and build it up. [link]

12. Now that you're done with the shading, we'll jump into the highlights ( This is absolutely your choice. If you like to make simple shading, then fine. You may skip this part. ) You need to change the Mode into Screen . With Screen, you'll add a shiny coat as you can see her [link]

13. With the inner ears, nostrils, and hooves, use the same strategy with screen--to add a shiny surface; and multiply--to add the shading. [link]

14. TIP: If you messed up with the shading--because it happens very often as you can see here [link] You can simply go to Mode, and change it to Lighten and edit it. [link]

15. Now is time to make a small pause to coloring and check the edges of your drawing. You may find a lot of flaws such as [link] But you can clean them with a Normal Mode , white brush to clean the background. You may also recolor small parts of your lineart with a black brush. [link] [link]

16. This is how it looks after 15 long steps [link]

17. This is OPTIONAL, but I use another layer just to focus on the eyes and mane/tail coloring. How ever you color them, use another layer [link]

18. At last, voila! [link]

19. I won't give a tutorial on backgrounds because I'm terribly myself, but if you want to make a background I suggest duplicating another layer. Use the wand to trap just the outside and then you're ready to draw the background [link]

20. Last, but not least: If you have a watermark, always make a new layer to add the watermark I don't know why but it always works.

I hope that this is a help for you. Any questions, feel free to ask me by commenting below. Enjoy!

The results of this tutorial (check it out! ) ]]>
Anyways, this is for people who HAVE PHOTOSHOP ONLY . You do NOT need to have a tablet so no worries; although a tablet helps a LOT with the small details that you want to fix. This tutorial is more like a "trick" for those people who don't have tablets and make sketches in pencil and later color it with photoshop Not too long ago I figure my own way to do this in a very simple and fun way.
All ready? Let's get started



After you've sketched your drawing with pencil, make sure that you use a pen (any black pen) to trace the lines and so that is easier to use Once the pen is dried, you may erase the pencil with an eraser and you'll have your lineart.

1. You'll open your photoshop and your drawing [link]

2. When you pick your brushes, you'll see Mode. From there you'll pick Exclusion. Make sure you have a WHITE color for your brush. [link]

3. With that set up, you'll color all of your lineart [link] And notice how the black lineart will turn white.

4. Once that's done, you'll add a New Layer . Make sure to change the brush color to black. ( you may rename the layer such as Layer 1 so that you're more organized and don't get confused. ) [link]

5. You'll begin to trace the white lines with the black brush. [link] The more you zoom in, the better and easier to see.

6. Once you're done, it should look something like this [link] . Therefore you'll click on Background and click on eraser. Erase EVERYTHING. [link]

7. After step 6, it should look like this [link] This is the "Lineart" layer. Then, on the layers you'll right click and "Duplicate Layer" [link]

8. You're finally ready to color. With the Wand , you'll be able to color more easily. [link] [Make sure you're no longer on the background, OR Layer 1 (lineart), but on the 2nd layer (Colored Layer 1) ]

9. On Colored Layer 1, you'll color your drawing--keep it all basic. NO shading or highlights. [link] I don't recommend you to color the mane/tail and eyes just yet.

10. After you're done, duplicate the Colored Layer 1 and rename it as Colored Layer 2. [link]

11. On Colored Layer 2 , you'll do the shading and highlights. To start off with the shadow, you have to make sure that for every color that you want to tone down, it has to have the right base color. For example, as you can see here [link] you have the horse's coat as brown. Therefore the only thing you need to change is the Mode to Multiply. Try to color one part all at once because if you try color it again, it will turn into a much darker brown color. If it's too complicated, try to shade the parts very lightly and build it up. [link]

12. Now that you're done with the shading, we'll jump into the highlights ( This is absolutely your choice. If you like to make simple shading, then fine. You may skip this part. ) You need to change the Mode into Screen . With Screen, you'll add a shiny coat as you can see her [link]

13. With the inner ears, nostrils, and hooves, use the same strategy with screen--to add a shiny surface; and multiply--to add the shading. [link]

14. TIP: If you messed up with the shading--because it happens very often as you can see here [link] You can simply go to Mode, and change it to Lighten and edit it. [link]

15. Now is time to make a small pause to coloring and check the edges of your drawing. You may find a lot of flaws such as [link] But you can clean them with a Normal Mode , white brush to clean the background. You may also recolor small parts of your lineart with a black brush. [link] [link]

16. This is how it looks after 15 long steps [link]

17. This is OPTIONAL, but I use another layer just to focus on the eyes and mane/tail coloring. How ever you color them, use another layer [link]

18. At last, voila! [link]

19. I won't give a tutorial on backgrounds because I'm terribly myself, but if you want to make a background I suggest duplicating another layer. Use the wand to trap just the outside and then you're ready to draw the background [link]

20. Last, but not least: If you have a watermark, always make a new layer to add the watermark I don't know why but it always works.

I hope that this is a help for you. Any questions, feel free to ask me by commenting below. Enjoy!

The results of this tutorial (check it out! )

]]> http://painted-flamingo.deviantart.com/art/Adobe-Photoshop-Elements-Tutorial-Lineart-Color-324926070 http://painted-flamingo.deviantart.com/art/Adobe-Photoshop-Elements-Tutorial-Lineart-Color-324926070 Sun, 02 Sep 2012 13:51:35 PDT Adobe Photoshop Elements Tutorial: Lineart/ Color nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop painted-flamingo http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/p/a/painted-flamingo.png?15 Copyright 2012-2013 =painted-flamingo
So just some notes:

-You DON'T need a tablet for any of these steps
-Blue lines point out certain tools and things for that step
-This is a very simple tutorial
-This is just the way I do things, I'm not saying its the right or best way, its just what I use and it works best for me
-I used adobe PS elements version 8, it will likely work for other versions and other programs (like PS)
-If you want to add a background to your piece, just create a new layer UNDER your color (locked layer) and create away!

-an alternate to the "if you have any sections that have color that you want to be transparent" is to right click on the sections and select "add to selection." The step must be done BEFORE selecting the inverse.


Now please give me any questions you have. I tried to make this extremely easy to follow, so let me know if it is not. If there are typos, sorry but I flattened it to save space so won't be able to fix.


I'D LOVE TO SEE YOUR WORK! If you use this please link me to what you've created so I can fave it! No need to link back or anything unless you want to. All I ask is that you don't steal the tutorial itself ]]>
So just some notes:

-You DON'T need a tablet for any of these steps
-Blue lines point out certain tools and things for that step
-This is a very simple tutorial
-This is just the way I do things, I'm not saying its the right or best way, its just what I use and it works best for me
-I used adobe PS elements version 8, it will likely work for other versions and other programs (like PS)
-If you want to add a background to your piece, just create a new layer UNDER your color (locked layer) and create away!

-an alternate to the "if you have any sections that have color that you want to be transparent" is to right click on the sections and select "add to selection." The step must be done BEFORE selecting the inverse.


Now please give me any questions you have. I tried to make this extremely easy to follow, so let me know if it is not. If there are typos, sorry but I flattened it to save space so won't be able to fix.


I'D LOVE TO SEE YOUR WORK! If you use this please link me to what you've created so I can fave it! No need to link back or anything unless you want to. All I ask is that you don't steal the tutorial itself

]]> http://filmchild.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-Tool-Tutorial-74330702 http://filmchild.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-Tool-Tutorial-74330702 Thu, 10 Jan 2008 22:23:34 PST Photoshop Tool Tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Filmchild http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/f/i/filmchild.jpg?1 Copyright 2008-2013 *Filmchild
Ok sports fans, I’ve been requested to do another tutorial. So here it is. Before you learn anything else you have to learn what your tools are. Now don’t’ pass out
( Also please note that my tutortial for working with stock models is in the works )

Now please know that I personally have Photoshop Elements and the upper PS components will have a much larger and more varied layout but overall all the PS programs have the same tools.

Now lets take a small tour of your tools.
Right. First things first take a look at your left-hand side. See all that junk up there? Those are your marvelous tools you’ll be using.
Let’s get started
Take a look at the tool layout.
Your first tool there is your
MOVE TOOL
- You use this when you want to move a (unlocked meaning unmovable ) image or to resize it. This can also move and resize any other object including text.
ZOOM TOOL
- All this tool does is simply zoon in and out of your work space, it does not hurt your work in anyway. A helpful hint: If you have a mouse with a roller in the middle of the left and right mouse buttons you will be able to simply scroll in and out with that.
HAND TOOL
This simply allows you to pick something up, which you can also do with your move tool.
EYEDROPPER TOOL
- This is a very useful tool in the fact that it helps you find exactly what color you might be working with, whither this be a brush, a paint, whatever. It simply picks up whatever color you might put under it. Pure and simple.
MARQUEE TOOL
- All this is, is a way to either select something in a circular or rectangular way. It’s called a marquee because when you select something the outlines circle with little lights. It’s no big deal.
LASSO TOOL
- This is probably your most important tool especially in this tutorial. It’s purpose is to grab on to the outlines of objects so that you can select something from a background…..like a model perhaps?
MAGIC WAND TOOL
- This tool is very useful in the fact that it selects darn near everything. Now wait don’t freak out. It’s works great with a stock model or any object with a smooth background to it. Later you can go back and have PS select only what you what in the middle of the picture, but we’ll get to that later.
SELECTION BRUSH TOOL
- This is were your brushes will come in. You know all those wonderful stock artist around here that make those brushes to make different effects or things? You’ll be using that in this tool. You can also use your default brushes here too, meaning the brushes that have already come with your PS program.
TYPE TOOL
- Common since would tell you what this is. It’s a text tool. If you want any kind of lettering in your work, this is the tool.
CROP TOOL
- If you have ever worked with a photo machine in any store, this is your cropping option. Cut away sections you don’t like, that’s all it is.
COOKIE CUTTER TOOL
- I personally think is sort of dumb tool but it comes with this particular version of PS. All it does is cut your work into a particular shape, and I’m pretty sure that after all the work you have done you don’t want it cut into a heart.
STREIGHTENING TOOL
Pure and simple it straightens out your pictures if they are off center. Pretty useless when your move tool does this better to your own needs.
RED EYE REMOVER
- Got a model with a bit of red eye? This tool (tries ) to remove it. Personally I would paint over it or clone…..but we are getting too advanced. If it works for you great.
SPOT HEALING BRUSH
- This is a handy little tool as when you find what I like to call UFOs in you background which can be a little spot or something in your background image that is really annoying. This tool removes that. But be careful this tool clones what is around it, and sometimes it can look kinda odd if you have a three eyed model, but it really works on skies, and landscape images.
CLONE TOOL
- Probably one of the photo-manipulator’s best friends. All this tool does is copy what is around it. You can fix mistakes, add on. You name it.
ERASER TOOL
- The title says it. Erase things in your work. This is best used on your layers because if you use this on your background you erase your background down to your work board with the checkers which never looks good.
BRUSH TOOL
- Ever played with Paint on your computer? Basically this is what you do with Paint, but you have the option of airbrushing, which is wonderful when working with models. Hey it’s done in magazines, so why not here?
PAINT BUCKET TOOL
- Again if you ever played around with Paint on your computer all this tool does is fill the image with a your selected color.
GRADIENT TOOL
- This tool fades out a partial amount of any image, or object by filling it with a certain amount of a color. It has a very PowerPoint effect to it, but sometimes it’s very useful.
COSTUME SHAPE TOOL
-This is like your cookie cutter tool only that it doesn’t cut your main image into it’s shape but fills it with your chosen color.
BLUR TOOL
- This is a nifty little tool that allows you to blur, sharpen or smudge you images. You see that little arrow in the icon’s corner? If you hold down your mouse on the icon long enough it will give you the other tool options.
DOGE TOOL
- This tool is like the blur in that you can either bring out light or darken it with a burn. You can access that option in the same way I explained in the blur.
FORGROUND/BACKGROUND COLOR
- All this is, is the color you chose your background to be, but if you are putting a stock image over it, what does it matter? Still this tool is also your color chooser for your tools, PS objects…ext.

Some Helpful Hints
When you look at some of your tools You will notice a little arrow in the icon’s corner. If you hold down your mouse on the icon long enough it will give you the other tool options. This allows you to access the other tools in the tools category.

Now if you have any trouble with these tools are you simply want to learn something more advanced please let me know! ]]>
Ok sports fans, I’ve been requested to do another tutorial. So here it is. Before you learn anything else you have to learn what your tools are. Now don’t’ pass out
( Also please note that my tutortial for working with stock models is in the works )

Now please know that I personally have Photoshop Elements and the upper PS components will have a much larger and more varied layout but overall all the PS programs have the same tools.

Now lets take a small tour of your tools.
Right. First things first take a look at your left-hand side. See all that junk up there? Those are your marvelous tools you’ll be using.
Let’s get started
Take a look at the tool layout.
Your first tool there is your
MOVE TOOL
- You use this when you want to move a (unlocked meaning unmovable ) image or to resize it. This can also move and resize any other object including text.
ZOOM TOOL
- All this tool does is simply zoon in and out of your work space, it does not hurt your work in anyway. A helpful hint: If you have a mouse with a roller in the middle of the left and right mouse buttons you will be able to simply scroll in and out with that.
HAND TOOL
This simply allows you to pick something up, which you can also do with your move tool.
EYEDROPPER TOOL
- This is a very useful tool in the fact that it helps you find exactly what color you might be working with, whither this be a brush, a paint, whatever. It simply picks up whatever color you might put under it. Pure and simple.
MARQUEE TOOL
- All this is, is a way to either select something in a circular or rectangular way. It’s called a marquee because when you select something the outlines circle with little lights. It’s no big deal.
LASSO TOOL
- This is probably your most important tool especially in this tutorial. It’s purpose is to grab on to the outlines of objects so that you can select something from a background…..like a model perhaps?
MAGIC WAND TOOL
- This tool is very useful in the fact that it selects darn near everything. Now wait don’t freak out. It’s works great with a stock model or any object with a smooth background to it. Later you can go back and have PS select only what you what in the middle of the picture, but we’ll get to that later.
SELECTION BRUSH TOOL
- This is were your brushes will come in. You know all those wonderful stock artist around here that make those brushes to make different effects or things? You’ll be using that in this tool. You can also use your default brushes here too, meaning the brushes that have already come with your PS program.
TYPE TOOL
- Common since would tell you what this is. It’s a text tool. If you want any kind of lettering in your work, this is the tool.
CROP TOOL
- If you have ever worked with a photo machine in any store, this is your cropping option. Cut away sections you don’t like, that’s all it is.
COOKIE CUTTER TOOL
- I personally think is sort of dumb tool but it comes with this particular version of PS. All it does is cut your work into a particular shape, and I’m pretty sure that after all the work you have done you don’t want it cut into a heart.
STREIGHTENING TOOL
Pure and simple it straightens out your pictures if they are off center. Pretty useless when your move tool does this better to your own needs.
RED EYE REMOVER
- Got a model with a bit of red eye? This tool (tries ) to remove it. Personally I would paint over it or clone…..but we are getting too advanced. If it works for you great.
SPOT HEALING BRUSH
- This is a handy little tool as when you find what I like to call UFOs in you background which can be a little spot or something in your background image that is really annoying. This tool removes that. But be careful this tool clones what is around it, and sometimes it can look kinda odd if you have a three eyed model, but it really works on skies, and landscape images.
CLONE TOOL
- Probably one of the photo-manipulator’s best friends. All this tool does is copy what is around it. You can fix mistakes, add on. You name it.
ERASER TOOL
- The title says it. Erase things in your work. This is best used on your layers because if you use this on your background you erase your background down to your work board with the checkers which never looks good.
BRUSH TOOL
- Ever played with Paint on your computer? Basically this is what you do with Paint, but you have the option of airbrushing, which is wonderful when working with models. Hey it’s done in magazines, so why not here?
PAINT BUCKET TOOL
- Again if you ever played around with Paint on your computer all this tool does is fill the image with a your selected color.
GRADIENT TOOL
- This tool fades out a partial amount of any image, or object by filling it with a certain amount of a color. It has a very PowerPoint effect to it, but sometimes it’s very useful.
COSTUME SHAPE TOOL
-This is like your cookie cutter tool only that it doesn’t cut your main image into it’s shape but fills it with your chosen color.
BLUR TOOL
- This is a nifty little tool that allows you to blur, sharpen or smudge you images. You see that little arrow in the icon’s corner? If you hold down your mouse on the icon long enough it will give you the other tool options.
DOGE TOOL
- This tool is like the blur in that you can either bring out light or darken it with a burn. You can access that option in the same way I explained in the blur.
FORGROUND/BACKGROUND COLOR
- All this is, is the color you chose your background to be, but if you are putting a stock image over it, what does it matter? Still this tool is also your color chooser for your tools, PS objects…ext.

Some Helpful Hints
When you look at some of your tools You will notice a little arrow in the icon’s corner. If you hold down your mouse on the icon long enough it will give you the other tool options. This allows you to access the other tools in the tools category.

Now if you have any trouble with these tools are you simply want to learn something more advanced please let me know!

]]> http://fence-post.deviantart.com/art/Tech-Style-Background-in-GIMP-77792414 http://fence-post.deviantart.com/art/Tech-Style-Background-in-GIMP-77792414 Mon, 18 Feb 2008 18:10:07 PST Tech-Style Background in GIMP nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/thegimp fence-post http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/f/e/fence-post.jpg Copyright 2008-2013 ~fence-post http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/
Click on the download link to the left and download the pdf to view at your leisure. If you would rather view the tutorial online, you may do so here: [link]

Enjoy! Let me know if you have any questions or need clarification.

Art ]]>
Click on the download link to the left and download the pdf to view at your leisure. If you would rather view the tutorial online, you may do so here: [link]

Enjoy! Let me know if you have any questions or need clarification.

Art

]]> http://darqnaut.deviantart.com/art/Make-a-Comic-Strip-in-5-hours-20806362 http://darqnaut.deviantart.com/art/Make-a-Comic-Strip-in-5-hours-20806362 Wed, 20 Jul 2005 23:00:33 PDT Make a Comic Strip in 5 hours nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Darqnaut http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/d/a/darqnaut.jpg?4 Copyright 2005-2013 *Darqnaut
Okay, fire off those beautiful steps, laddies--

STEP 1-- KNOW WHAT YOU'RE FRIGGIN' DOING
NOT SHOWN IN ABOVE IMAGE BUT GOOD STUFF TO KNOW-- SO GOOD WE HAVE TO WRITE IN CAPS.

Probably the most important step is the first one, and that is knowing what you want to achieve with your comic. What's your point? How will it be funny (or poignant, or whatever 2,3 syllabled word you're shooting for)? what will make it stand out? The easiest way I found how to do this is just free-write in Notepad until something connects. In this tutorial, I used a chunk of a storyline I'm writing for my own personal comic strip, BOOM: Breaking the Circle. In it, the main lead Spritely (the "ugly, bald child," as my brother calls him) is first meeting the art-student/ designer his agent hired to help create and promote his own comic book. So as a recent college grad, I'm pulling this from experience. No, I don't look like Neutron the person in question. And yes, I actually know people like Neutron.

Next, and what isn't featured here, is the quick thumbnail I did beforehand. The sucker was like an ich by half an inch, so scanning the little bugger is out of the question until I get a scanner that can make a 4500dpi scan without interpolation or something. Besides, you didn't miss much- what it serves is giving me a small, rough representation of how I want the panels to be laid out so I don't crowd anything at the end, how many inches I want each panel, etc. It takes all of ten minutes- tops- to do and it will save you a massive amount of heartache later.

STEP 2-- FRAME IT OUT

Using a simple L-square you can buy from any hardware store for 5 bucks (TIP: NEVER buy rulers or anything of the sort at art stores- they'll cost you twice as much as what you can get at the local nuts and lumber yard), I laid out the borders of the panels in PEN. If I need to do any overlapping, I can clean up the linework afterward in PhotoShop. Also, plan to work large, as it makes life easier and it'll aide you on a little trick later on...

The figures in each panel are sketched lightly out, starting with simple shapes and lines and then slowly meshed together. For this, I found using a .3 mechanical pencil works the best for me, although you can use whatever works best for ya. You can be as sloppy as you want here, just make sure you know which lines stay and which go.

Also, it must be said that I have been cartooning since I was in the sixth grade, so I'm fairly comfortable with what I can do. You should do the same, find the point where you are familiar and at ease with and then challenge yourself bit by bit. In other words, don't try to do a curvilinear cityscape when you're still figuring out one-point perspective. Do what you can and take baby steps, Bob. Baby steps to the door, baby steps to the elevator...

STEP 3-- REINFORCE THE FORM

This is where a steady hand comes into play. Using a fine-point pen (I used a regular Pilot Precise Rolling Ball pen), form out all of the characters main forms out. Don't worry about details now, just get the shapes down so you can better see what you're doing. Take some time on this step. Put on some music and just relax and don't get impatient. It's just like driving... except with a pen. And there aren't any cops. Or roads. On anything else that makes it like driving.

.....

Moving along....

STEP 4-- FILL UP THE POOLS (then drop your kids off)

Okay, fun part here! Break out a larger tipped pen, something you're comfortable with (for this I used a Faber Castell brush pen, but Prismacolor and (it you're the risky type) even a Sharpie works fine here). In any case, try to use the same kind of ink you used before (India ink with India ink, for example). Main reason for this is because differing inks may look a bit different when scanning.

Anyway, fill in the large black areas in your piece, being careful not to get too sloppy. It's tempting, but you might not want to risk it. This is also the time to look over your piece, give it a few hatch lines hither and yon, some "texture," just make it pop. Remember though we're going to be PhotoShopping this sucker so don't go overboard.

STEP 5-- ADD THE FIRST COAT OF PAINT

First things first- when scanning in your piece, scan it in at a larger size, both in dpi and inches, than the final product will be. This way you have more space to kick around in and when you reduce the size, you can also hide a lot of the small mistakes quite effortlessly. This isn't a gauruntee though.

The way I color my pieces is either I remove all the white from the image if I'm going to be altering the color of the linework, or just change the setting of the lineart layer to "Multiply" in the "Layers" palette.

I make a bottom layer an odd color like purple or blue, any color really that you don't plan to be using much in the final piece. This way I can easily see what I'm painting and where I have yet to hit, esp. with the lighter colors.

After that I make seperate layers for the solid colors, NOT painting any adjacent colors on the same layer. Keep them divided so you can go back in and fix anything a little easier and you don't have to be so tight on the coloring. All in all, you can probably do this process without having to make more than four or five layers that seperate all adjacent colors.

STEP 6-- BLACK MAGIC
This step in a contradiction, as it is the easiest and yet to make it look good, make also be the most precise step. Simply make another layer on top of the colored layers but below the lineart, and set it to 30-50% opacity. Using a hard edge brush in Photoshop. Smear some black over the areas you want to be shaded. Think how the image would appear in three dimensions, how the shadows would bend over the object.

Once you get the areas covered- break out the eraser. Now zoom into the piece about 300-400% and slowly widdle away the shadow areas, trimming them so they better fit the shape of the figures, etc. Also, in some cases, you may want to use the Smudge tool, just have its strength turned down to about 50%

And this is all there is to making pretty funky-cool cartoon-esque shadows.

STEP 7-- LIGHTING MAKES THE SCENE
Now Shading is all nice and good, but what makes a comic zing (pow and bam, thank you Adam West) is how well you create a scene. Sure, you could do it the Sunday comic hack way, but you and I haven't had our spirits crushed by an arts syndicate and oppressive deadlines, so let's run with it.

The way you add atmosphere is totally up to you. A few suggestions though is thinking about conveying emotions through color and the surroundings. In this comic I wanted to create a semi-oppresive feel while also kinetic and a little off kilter. To achieve this, I alternated the background in each panel, one with the ragged, splotchy back smear on stark white, and the other panels I added a slight gradient fill layers above the color and shading and set it on "Soft Light."

Really, it's all up to you on this step. Be creative and have fun. Or else clowns will come into your room and eat your toes. Yes.

STEP 8-- SPEAKING OUT

Now go back to step one and lay out the text, text boxes and text bubbles. I used the vector shape tool in PhotoShop to make my boxes. I know there are much nicer programs that will make your comic book bubbles, but I'm making do with what I got. Make sure not to cut off any cool parts of your illustrations, for that would defeat the point of all the hard work you've put in.

STEP 9-- GIVE TO MOMMY
Pu it up on your fridge and bring all your friends over to check it out.


-------dashed lines are fun-------

So... I hope that will be useful to some of you out there. If there is anything else you are wondering about, send it this way.

Comments and critiques appreciated. Thanks muchos. ]]>
Okay, fire off those beautiful steps, laddies--

STEP 1-- KNOW WHAT YOU'RE FRIGGIN' DOING
NOT SHOWN IN ABOVE IMAGE BUT GOOD STUFF TO KNOW-- SO GOOD WE HAVE TO WRITE IN CAPS.

Probably the most important step is the first one, and that is knowing what you want to achieve with your comic. What's your point? How will it be funny (or poignant, or whatever 2,3 syllabled word you're shooting for)? what will make it stand out? The easiest way I found how to do this is just free-write in Notepad until something connects. In this tutorial, I used a chunk of a storyline I'm writing for my own personal comic strip, BOOM: Breaking the Circle. In it, the main lead Spritely (the "ugly, bald child," as my brother calls him) is first meeting the art-student/ designer his agent hired to help create and promote his own comic book. So as a recent college grad, I'm pulling this from experience. No, I don't look like Neutron the person in question. And yes, I actually know people like Neutron.

Next, and what isn't featured here, is the quick thumbnail I did beforehand. The sucker was like an ich by half an inch, so scanning the little bugger is out of the question until I get a scanner that can make a 4500dpi scan without interpolation or something. Besides, you didn't miss much- what it serves is giving me a small, rough representation of how I want the panels to be laid out so I don't crowd anything at the end, how many inches I want each panel, etc. It takes all of ten minutes- tops- to do and it will save you a massive amount of heartache later.

STEP 2-- FRAME IT OUT

Using a simple L-square you can buy from any hardware store for 5 bucks (TIP: NEVER buy rulers or anything of the sort at art stores- they'll cost you twice as much as what you can get at the local nuts and lumber yard), I laid out the borders of the panels in PEN. If I need to do any overlapping, I can clean up the linework afterward in PhotoShop. Also, plan to work large, as it makes life easier and it'll aide you on a little trick later on...

The figures in each panel are sketched lightly out, starting with simple shapes and lines and then slowly meshed together. For this, I found using a .3 mechanical pencil works the best for me, although you can use whatever works best for ya. You can be as sloppy as you want here, just make sure you know which lines stay and which go.

Also, it must be said that I have been cartooning since I was in the sixth grade, so I'm fairly comfortable with what I can do. You should do the same, find the point where you are familiar and at ease with and then challenge yourself bit by bit. In other words, don't try to do a curvilinear cityscape when you're still figuring out one-point perspective. Do what you can and take baby steps, Bob. Baby steps to the door, baby steps to the elevator...

STEP 3-- REINFORCE THE FORM

This is where a steady hand comes into play. Using a fine-point pen (I used a regular Pilot Precise Rolling Ball pen), form out all of the characters main forms out. Don't worry about details now, just get the shapes down so you can better see what you're doing. Take some time on this step. Put on some music and just relax and don't get impatient. It's just like driving... except with a pen. And there aren't any cops. Or roads. On anything else that makes it like driving.

.....

Moving along....

STEP 4-- FILL UP THE POOLS (then drop your kids off)

Okay, fun part here! Break out a larger tipped pen, something you're comfortable with (for this I used a Faber Castell brush pen, but Prismacolor and (it you're the risky type) even a Sharpie works fine here). In any case, try to use the same kind of ink you used before (India ink with India ink, for example). Main reason for this is because differing inks may look a bit different when scanning.

Anyway, fill in the large black areas in your piece, being careful not to get too sloppy. It's tempting, but you might not want to risk it. This is also the time to look over your piece, give it a few hatch lines hither and yon, some "texture," just make it pop. Remember though we're going to be PhotoShopping this sucker so don't go overboard.

STEP 5-- ADD THE FIRST COAT OF PAINT

First things first- when scanning in your piece, scan it in at a larger size, both in dpi and inches, than the final product will be. This way you have more space to kick around in and when you reduce the size, you can also hide a lot of the small mistakes quite effortlessly. This isn't a gauruntee though.

The way I color my pieces is either I remove all the white from the image if I'm going to be altering the color of the linework, or just change the setting of the lineart layer to "Multiply" in the "Layers" palette.

I make a bottom layer an odd color like purple or blue, any color really that you don't plan to be using much in the final piece. This way I can easily see what I'm painting and where I have yet to hit, esp. with the lighter colors.

After that I make seperate layers for the solid colors, NOT painting any adjacent colors on the same layer. Keep them divided so you can go back in and fix anything a little easier and you don't have to be so tight on the coloring. All in all, you can probably do this process without having to make more than four or five layers that seperate all adjacent colors.

STEP 6-- BLACK MAGIC
This step in a contradiction, as it is the easiest and yet to make it look good, make also be the most precise step. Simply make another layer on top of the colored layers but below the lineart, and set it to 30-50% opacity. Using a hard edge brush in Photoshop. Smear some black over the areas you want to be shaded. Think how the image would appear in three dimensions, how the shadows would bend over the object.

Once you get the areas covered- break out the eraser. Now zoom into the piece about 300-400% and slowly widdle away the shadow areas, trimming them so they better fit the shape of the figures, etc. Also, in some cases, you may want to use the Smudge tool, just have its strength turned down to about 50%

And this is all there is to making pretty funky-cool cartoon-esque shadows.

STEP 7-- LIGHTING MAKES THE SCENE
Now Shading is all nice and good, but what makes a comic zing (pow and bam, thank you Adam West) is how well you create a scene. Sure, you could do it the Sunday comic hack way, but you and I haven't had our spirits crushed by an arts syndicate and oppressive deadlines, so let's run with it.

The way you add atmosphere is totally up to you. A few suggestions though is thinking about conveying emotions through color and the surroundings. In this comic I wanted to create a semi-oppresive feel while also kinetic and a little off kilter. To achieve this, I alternated the background in each panel, one with the ragged, splotchy back smear on stark white, and the other panels I added a slight gradient fill layers above the color and shading and set it on "Soft Light."

Really, it's all up to you on this step. Be creative and have fun. Or else clowns will come into your room and eat your toes. Yes.

STEP 8-- SPEAKING OUT

Now go back to step one and lay out the text, text boxes and text bubbles. I used the vector shape tool in PhotoShop to make my boxes. I know there are much nicer programs that will make your comic book bubbles, but I'm making do with what I got. Make sure not to cut off any cool parts of your illustrations, for that would defeat the point of all the hard work you've put in.

STEP 9-- GIVE TO MOMMY
Pu it up on your fridge and bring all your friends over to check it out.


-------dashed lines are fun-------

So... I hope that will be useful to some of you out there. If there is anything else you are wondering about, send it this way.

Comments and critiques appreciated. Thanks muchos.

]]> http://ranicx.deviantart.com/art/How-to-make-Glowing-lines-6105741 http://ranicx.deviantart.com/art/How-to-make-Glowing-lines-6105741 Fri, 26 Mar 2004 00:52:14 PST How to make Glowing lines nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop ranicx http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/r/a/ranicx.gif Copyright 2004-2013 ~ranicx [link] ) and if i could make a tutorial of how to make them.. so i thort why not, and here it is .. its farely simple, but for the best results its good if ya know ya way around photoshop to some extent.

this tutorial was made in CS, but im sure it works in version 7 and 6.

if ya use this tutorial to make sumthing, it would be kool if ya leave a link to what ya made just so i can see how its helped people ]]> [link] ) and if i could make a tutorial of how to make them.. so i thort why not, and here it is .. its farely simple, but for the best results its good if ya know ya way around photoshop to some extent.

this tutorial was made in CS, but im sure it works in version 7 and 6.

if ya use this tutorial to make sumthing, it would be kool if ya leave a link to what ya made just so i can see how its helped people

]]> http://sundayx.deviantart.com/art/Vector-Tutorial-for-Beginners-33611599 http://sundayx.deviantart.com/art/Vector-Tutorial-for-Beginners-33611599 Sun, 21 May 2006 10:42:20 PDT Vector Tutorial for Beginners nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop sundayx http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/s/u/sundayx.gif Copyright 2006-2013 ~sundayx _{After downloading the .zip file, just extract the files to a folder and open index.html}

This is a simple Vector Tutorial for Adobe Photoshop (focusing on CS2 but most settings apply for previous versions).

It covers:
Basics: The basics as to how to use the Pen Tool,
Designs: Vector use in designs,
Extraction: Using shapes to extract an image from its background, and
Colouring: The different ways of colouring using vectors.

If you have any queries as to what is covered, just send me a note or leave a comment.

Please Note that this is merely the way I use vectors in Photoshop; you are perfectly entitled to doing things your own way, as there are so many possibilities.

Thank you to *Della-Stock and ~temabinastock for use of their stock. ]]> _{After downloading the .zip file, just extract the files to a folder and open index.html}

This is a simple Vector Tutorial for Adobe Photoshop (focusing on CS2 but most settings apply for previous versions).

It covers:
Basics: The basics as to how to use the Pen Tool,
Designs: Vector use in designs,
Extraction: Using shapes to extract an image from its background, and
Colouring: The different ways of colouring using vectors.

If you have any queries as to what is covered, just send me a note or leave a comment.

Please Note that this is merely the way I use vectors in Photoshop; you are perfectly entitled to doing things your own way, as there are so many possibilities.

Thank you to *Della-Stock and ~temabinastock for use of their stock.

]]> http://critelli.deviantart.com/art/quot-Hellish-Sky-quot-Tutorial-88444683 http://critelli.deviantart.com/art/quot-Hellish-Sky-quot-Tutorial-88444683 Thu, 12 Jun 2008 06:34:19 PDT "Hellish Sky" Tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop critelli http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/c/r/critelli.png?2 Copyright 2008-2013 ~critelli
This is my first tutorial, so leave me some feedback! I hope it is informative enough and useful to you. , comments, and are always welcomed. ]]>
This is my first tutorial, so leave me some feedback! I hope it is informative enough and useful to you. , comments, and are always welcomed.

]]> http://fence-post.deviantart.com/art/GIMP-Matrix-Effect-Part-I-44974830 http://fence-post.deviantart.com/art/GIMP-Matrix-Effect-Part-I-44974830 Mon, 18 Dec 2006 21:11:36 PST GIMP Matrix Effect Part I nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/thegimp fence-post http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/f/e/fence-post.jpg Copyright 2006-2013 ~fence-post http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/ [link]

The tutorial is in html format. So, just download the zip file to a convenient location, like your desktop. Double-click the zip file and move the html file and the "files" folder to your desktop (the files folder and html file must be in the same location for the images to show up.) Double-click the html file and the tutorial will open.

Although nothing is required for you to download and use this tutorial, giving me a fave would be a simple way to show your thanks. Just click the Add to Favorites link on the left side of the page, near the top. You don't even have to give me comments. Come on, people, show a little bit of love for someone who takes the time and effort to do the hard work of preparing these tutorials for your enjoyment and learning.

Enjoy!

Art ]]> [link]

The tutorial is in html format. So, just download the zip file to a convenient location, like your desktop. Double-click the zip file and move the html file and the "files" folder to your desktop (the files folder and html file must be in the same location for the images to show up.) Double-click the html file and the tutorial will open.

Although nothing is required for you to download and use this tutorial, giving me a fave would be a simple way to show your thanks. Just click the Add to Favorites link on the left side of the page, near the top. You don't even have to give me comments. Come on, people, show a little bit of love for someone who takes the time and effort to do the hard work of preparing these tutorials for your enjoyment and learning.

Enjoy!

Art

]]> http://namuciziru.deviantart.com/art/TEH-ORB-TUTORIAL-10621877 http://namuciziru.deviantart.com/art/TEH-ORB-TUTORIAL-10621877 Tue, 14 Sep 2004 17:11:44 PDT TEH ORB TUTORIAL nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/paintshoppro NamuCiziru http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/n/a/namuciziru.png?3 Copyright 2004-2013 ~NamuCiziru
FULLVIEW IF YOU WANT TO BE ABLE TO SEE CRAP!!!

How this works. Look at the pic, look for the corresponding part of the tutorial, labled by number and section.

I'm going to show you how to make a water orb here... since I'm lazy and am going to be making one anyways.

AND REMEMBER TO SAVE AS FREQUENTLY AS POSSIBLE!!! TRUST ME, IT'S A GOOD INVESTIMENT!!!

-*-TEH CENTER-*-
NOTE: You can start with any center you want. I'm just showing how I made the swirlys.
Start off with a background of any color. Usually I stick to solids, because we will be using distortion effects. As is obvious, I'm using black. Unfortunatly, I don't know how (if possible) to make a transparent background. If anyone finds a way, a how-to would be appreciated
1) Go to Effects> Illumination Effects> Sunburst. Set all the settings to anywhere between 35-85 (just try to stay around the midrange). Don't make it too big, or it won't fit in the orb... unless your not making an orb. If thats the case, get off my tutorial!!! *hmph* Oh! And make sure the sunburst isn't exactly in the middle, the spinny effect isn't as good I think. But it's your own preference. Remember to experiment!
2) Now, we have the fun part. Teh spinnage. Effects> Distortion Effects> Twirl. I usually set it to -720, but, again, feel free to experiment. (I actually twirl it a few times both ways)
--Optional Now we see Teh Center is done. But... there is that excess blue around it, circled in the pic up top. If you want, you can erase it if you want. (I don't remember if I erased it in the original. Probably not) Sometimes it does add a nice glowing effect though.

-*-TEH ORB-*-
1) This part is very simple. Effects> Artistic Effects> Balls and Bubbles. The only absolute rule for this, only one bubble. The size can be altered only if the "Maximum possible size" button is NOT selected. To change the size from there, mess with the dotted lines on the pic on the left.
--You can change the color by changing the "Material" under the "Surface" tab.
2) If you want to change the texture of the bubble, go under the "Maps" tab, and check off the "Bump map" box, and choose your texture.
3) If you want to make it a bubble, not an orb, click the "Environment map" box, then "Diffraction map". You have yourself a bubble. Mess with the "Fringe spacing" and "Type" all ya want.
4) Last on the list of the orb section: Lighting. Your call on this one, we all know MY lighting skills and abilities. I tend to use 2 lights though, in case you wanted to know.

*-*TEH REFLECTION*-*
Now that you have your nigh-finished image, why not add water?
Step 1) Copy the image and paste it as a new raster layer. So now you have "Copy of Raster 1" and "Raster 1". Make sure "Copy of..." is above the original.
Numero dos!) Effects> Distortion effects> Waves. The settings I put work well, but I cannot emphasize how you should screw with it yourself so it's your own work! I don't want to see exact replicas anywhere! If I do I'll send a large bouncer to yo house so he can bust a cap in yo ass!!! ... sorry, the suburbs are getting to me.
3) Image> Flip. Pretty straightforward.
4) Maybe you want to use the Gaussian Blur? (between a 2-5 radius) (Adjust> Blur> Gaussian blur)
5) Use the "deform" tool to shrink the reflection so it's all below the orb. You can also move the orb up with the same tool.
6) If you press and hold the "ctrl" key on yo keyboard, you can stretch the bottom half and shrink the top half at the same time. Good perspective tool.
--Mess with the opaquness. Anywhere between 60-100% should do.
YOU'RE DONE!!! Thats all there is to it! No more! It's over!


Anyone is free to use this as long as they give me some sort of credit. Just a small bit. Please?

AND NO EXACT COPIES!!! THAT I don't allow.

... and I'm an idiot and cant find the finished pic soo.... DON'T KILL ME!!!!! *goes chibi and hides under desk*
Tutorial copyright ]]>
FULLVIEW IF YOU WANT TO BE ABLE TO SEE CRAP!!!

How this works. Look at the pic, look for the corresponding part of the tutorial, labled by number and section.

I'm going to show you how to make a water orb here... since I'm lazy and am going to be making one anyways.

AND REMEMBER TO SAVE AS FREQUENTLY AS POSSIBLE!!! TRUST ME, IT'S A GOOD INVESTIMENT!!!

-*-TEH CENTER-*-
NOTE: You can start with any center you want. I'm just showing how I made the swirlys.
Start off with a background of any color. Usually I stick to solids, because we will be using distortion effects. As is obvious, I'm using black. Unfortunatly, I don't know how (if possible) to make a transparent background. If anyone finds a way, a how-to would be appreciated
1) Go to Effects> Illumination Effects> Sunburst. Set all the settings to anywhere between 35-85 (just try to stay around the midrange). Don't make it too big, or it won't fit in the orb... unless your not making an orb. If thats the case, get off my tutorial!!! *hmph* Oh! And make sure the sunburst isn't exactly in the middle, the spinny effect isn't as good I think. But it's your own preference. Remember to experiment!
2) Now, we have the fun part. Teh spinnage. Effects> Distortion Effects> Twirl. I usually set it to -720, but, again, feel free to experiment. (I actually twirl it a few times both ways)
--Optional Now we see Teh Center is done. But... there is that excess blue around it, circled in the pic up top. If you want, you can erase it if you want. (I don't remember if I erased it in the original. Probably not) Sometimes it does add a nice glowing effect though.

-*-TEH ORB-*-
1) This part is very simple. Effects> Artistic Effects> Balls and Bubbles. The only absolute rule for this, only one bubble. The size can be altered only if the "Maximum possible size" button is NOT selected. To change the size from there, mess with the dotted lines on the pic on the left.
--You can change the color by changing the "Material" under the "Surface" tab.
2) If you want to change the texture of the bubble, go under the "Maps" tab, and check off the "Bump map" box, and choose your texture.
3) If you want to make it a bubble, not an orb, click the "Environment map" box, then "Diffraction map". You have yourself a bubble. Mess with the "Fringe spacing" and "Type" all ya want.
4) Last on the list of the orb section: Lighting. Your call on this one, we all know MY lighting skills and abilities. I tend to use 2 lights though, in case you wanted to know.

*-*TEH REFLECTION*-*
Now that you have your nigh-finished image, why not add water?
Step 1) Copy the image and paste it as a new raster layer. So now you have "Copy of Raster 1" and "Raster 1". Make sure "Copy of..." is above the original.
Numero dos!) Effects> Distortion effects> Waves. The settings I put work well, but I cannot emphasize how you should screw with it yourself so it's your own work! I don't want to see exact replicas anywhere! If I do I'll send a large bouncer to yo house so he can bust a cap in yo ass!!! ... sorry, the suburbs are getting to me.
3) Image> Flip. Pretty straightforward.
4) Maybe you want to use the Gaussian Blur? (between a 2-5 radius) (Adjust> Blur> Gaussian blur)
5) Use the "deform" tool to shrink the reflection so it's all below the orb. You can also move the orb up with the same tool.
6) If you press and hold the "ctrl" key on yo keyboard, you can stretch the bottom half and shrink the top half at the same time. Good perspective tool.
--Mess with the opaquness. Anywhere between 60-100% should do.
YOU'RE DONE!!! Thats all there is to it! No more! It's over!


Anyone is free to use this as long as they give me some sort of credit. Just a small bit. Please?

AND NO EXACT COPIES!!! THAT I don't allow.

... and I'm an idiot and cant find the finished pic soo.... DON'T KILL ME!!!!! *goes chibi and hides under desk*
Tutorial copyright

]]> http://eishiya.deviantart.com/art/Speech-bubbles-in-PS-151072077 http://eishiya.deviantart.com/art/Speech-bubbles-in-PS-151072077 Tue, 19 Jan 2010 20:43:13 PST Speech bubbles in PS nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop eishiya http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/e/i/eishiya.jpg?1 Copyright 2010-2013 ~eishiya
How to make simple and neat speech bubbles in PS.

I prefer to hand-draw my bubbles and I recommend at least trying it <3 This method is rather impersonal, I think, but I hope it'll be useful for those whose comics do not need a more organic look.

I used PS CS3 to make this, but any version of PS starting with 6 should work...


Background image is a collaboration, lines by ~AdrielEverin and colours by me. Character belongs to Boba Milk Tea on Gaia. ]]>
How to make simple and neat speech bubbles in PS.

I prefer to hand-draw my bubbles and I recommend at least trying it <3 This method is rather impersonal, I think, but I hope it'll be useful for those whose comics do not need a more organic look.

I used PS CS3 to make this, but any version of PS starting with 6 should work...


Background image is a collaboration, lines by ~AdrielEverin and colours by me. Character belongs to Boba Milk Tea on Gaia.

]]> http://gus-kitagawa.deviantart.com/art/Seu-Madruga-Workflow-28431073 http://gus-kitagawa.deviantart.com/art/Seu-Madruga-Workflow-28431073 Tue, 31 Jan 2006 07:02:01 PST Seu Madruga : Workflow nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop gus-kitagawa http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/g/u/gus-kitagawa.gif Copyright 2006-2013 ~gus-kitagawa

>>> Passo 1 - Rough
Faço um 'rough' (esboço, sketch ou croqui se preferir).
Coisa bem simples, não me apego muito a detalhes, só às formas básicas, onde ficam as coisas.
Faço isso em uma nova layer, por cima do background em branco...
Para me organizar, eu vou chamar esse layer de LAYER UM.

>>> Passo 2 - Arte-final
Eu dimiunuo a opacidade da layer do Rough...
Eu crio uma LAYER DOIS e faço a arte-final por cima da UM.

>>> Passo 3 - Cor base
A partir de agora, já não me interessa a layer UM, eu sempre deixo guardada por apego emocional, mas já não tem utilidade nenhuma.
Agora, eu crio uma LAYER TRES por baixo da layer da arte-final. Nela eu joga as cores base...
Ah! Como achei conveniente neste caso, eu mudei as cores da arte-final de acordo com as cores base.

>>> Passo 4 - Sobretom
Em um nova layer, que fica abaixo da arte-final e sobre a cor base, eu uso os sobretons.
Detalhe, essa layer fica em "multiply" (ou "Multiplicação" se o seu photoshop for traduzido)

>>> Passo 5 - Sombra
Repito o mesmo processo do Passo 4.
Só que agora para as sombras mais escuras, geralmente eu uso um cinza mesmo.

>>> Passo 6 - Brilho
Aqui eu coloco os brilhos, bem simples e sem exagero.

>>> Passo 7 - Fundo
Coloquei um fundo bem simples, só pra terminar logo - nossa! qta consideração ao meu proprio trabalho ]]>

>>> Passo 1 - Rough
Faço um 'rough' (esboço, sketch ou croqui se preferir).
Coisa bem simples, não me apego muito a detalhes, só às formas básicas, onde ficam as coisas.
Faço isso em uma nova layer, por cima do background em branco...
Para me organizar, eu vou chamar esse layer de LAYER UM.

>>> Passo 2 - Arte-final
Eu dimiunuo a opacidade da layer do Rough...
Eu crio uma LAYER DOIS e faço a arte-final por cima da UM.

>>> Passo 3 - Cor base
A partir de agora, já não me interessa a layer UM, eu sempre deixo guardada por apego emocional, mas já não tem utilidade nenhuma.
Agora, eu crio uma LAYER TRES por baixo da layer da arte-final. Nela eu joga as cores base...
Ah! Como achei conveniente neste caso, eu mudei as cores da arte-final de acordo com as cores base.

>>> Passo 4 - Sobretom
Em um nova layer, que fica abaixo da arte-final e sobre a cor base, eu uso os sobretons.
Detalhe, essa layer fica em "multiply" (ou "Multiplicação" se o seu photoshop for traduzido)

>>> Passo 5 - Sombra
Repito o mesmo processo do Passo 4.
Só que agora para as sombras mais escuras, geralmente eu uso um cinza mesmo.

>>> Passo 6 - Brilho
Aqui eu coloco os brilhos, bem simples e sem exagero.

>>> Passo 7 - Fundo
Coloquei um fundo bem simples, só pra terminar logo - nossa! qta consideração ao meu proprio trabalho

]]> http://teamaquadan.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-Fondos-en-Photoshop-51348229 http://teamaquadan.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-Fondos-en-Photoshop-51348229 Wed, 21 Mar 2007 00:52:08 PDT Tutorial - Fondos en Photoshop nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop TeamAquaDan http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/t/e/teamaquadan.gif Copyright 2007-2013 ~TeamAquaDan
Si necesitan un pincel para hacer hojas, pueden descargar éste hecho por mi: [link]
Si necesitan pinceles de nubes, pueden descargar unos muy buenos de aquí: [link]

Si tienen cualquier duda, pregunten y responderé.

Si su pregunta es "podrias hacer un tutorial de como hacer una barra de carga en flash?" la respuesta es no ^^U aún no las se hacer del todo como para enseñar a hacerlas.

El tutorial pesa casi 3mb, por tanto el tiempo de carga variara dependiendo de la conexión, calculo que tardará unos 5 min en cargar con una conexión de 256k y algo mas de un min (o incluso menos) con una conexión de 1mb.

PARA DESCARGAR DE GIGASIZE (pincel de hojas):

1- Abres el enlace

2- Buscas en la derecha un cuadro de texto con un código de 3 letras/números así como HM0, TXR, y cosas como esas justo al lado (probablemente diga "Enter the code below to download" por encima), y escribes dicho código en el cuadro de texto que esta al lado

3- Le das al botón DESCARGAR y esperas el tiempo indicado, al terminar ese tiempo, le das al nuevo botón DESCARGAR y empezara la descarga ]]>
Si necesitan un pincel para hacer hojas, pueden descargar éste hecho por mi: [link]
Si necesitan pinceles de nubes, pueden descargar unos muy buenos de aquí: [link]

Si tienen cualquier duda, pregunten y responderé.

Si su pregunta es "podrias hacer un tutorial de como hacer una barra de carga en flash?" la respuesta es no ^^U aún no las se hacer del todo como para enseñar a hacerlas.

El tutorial pesa casi 3mb, por tanto el tiempo de carga variara dependiendo de la conexión, calculo que tardará unos 5 min en cargar con una conexión de 256k y algo mas de un min (o incluso menos) con una conexión de 1mb.

PARA DESCARGAR DE GIGASIZE (pincel de hojas):

1- Abres el enlace

2- Buscas en la derecha un cuadro de texto con un código de 3 letras/números así como HM0, TXR, y cosas como esas justo al lado (probablemente diga "Enter the code below to download" por encima), y escribes dicho código en el cuadro de texto que esta al lado

3- Le das al botón DESCARGAR y esperas el tiempo indicado, al terminar ese tiempo, le das al nuevo botón DESCARGAR y empezara la descarga

]]> http://dxd.deviantart.com/art/A-simple-emoticon-dxd-30969621 http://dxd.deviantart.com/art/A-simple-emoticon-dxd-30969621 Mon, 27 Mar 2006 11:33:27 PST A simple emoticon - dxd nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop dxd http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/d/x/dxd.png?9 Copyright 2006-2013 $dxd @omgdxd
Whilst this tutorial was done in photoshop and some tools and stuff aren't in all programs, I hope that it's still relevant for other programs too. It does however assume that you know the basics of using your program.

I intend to do a basic animation tutorial at some point in the future.

If you use this and find it helpful let me know, it's great to get positive feedback about tutorials. Same if you think I can improve something or you notice a mistake.

Edit: I'm so stupid, you'd get rather funny looking shading with a white background and black circle gradient ]]>
Whilst this tutorial was done in photoshop and some tools and stuff aren't in all programs, I hope that it's still relevant for other programs too. It does however assume that you know the basics of using your program.

I intend to do a basic animation tutorial at some point in the future.

If you use this and find it helpful let me know, it's great to get positive feedback about tutorials. Same if you think I can improve something or you notice a mistake.

Edit: I'm so stupid, you'd get rather funny looking shading with a white background and black circle gradient

]]> http://fyorl.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-Cut-out-text-54849922 http://fyorl.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-Cut-out-text-54849922 Mon, 07 May 2007 11:33:49 PDT Tutorial: Cut-out text nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/thegimp Fyorl http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/f/y/fyorl.png?1 Copyright 2007-2013 ~Fyorl http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/
I hope this is helpful to someone and hasn't already been done (although it's so simple that I'm sure it has). Anyway, cut-out text is quite cool and I'm sure there are occasions where it would come in handy.

A quick note that I forgot to mention in the actual tutorial. If you want the cut-out text to be transparent for whatever reason (maybe to make it look like text really had been cut out of the paper) it only takes a couple of extra steps:
1. After you've added the drop-shadow, select the 'Background' layer and choose Layer > Transparency > Add Alpha Channel.
2. Select the layer with text on it. Choose the text tool and double click part of your text (click OK if any dialogs pop-up). Click the 'Create path from text' button again and then Select > From Path.
3. Select the 'Background' layer again and hit Ctrl+X.
4. Finally, select your text layer again and choose Layer > Transparency > Color to Alpha and change the colour to the exact same colur as your text.

If you found this helpful I don't expect you to it but a comment would be nice.

If you can't find the drop-shadow Script-Fu effect you might want to update to at least GIMP 2.2 (I'm pretty sure it's included with that). The other option is to download the script here and save it to GIMP's scripts directory. ]]>
I hope this is helpful to someone and hasn't already been done (although it's so simple that I'm sure it has). Anyway, cut-out text is quite cool and I'm sure there are occasions where it would come in handy.

A quick note that I forgot to mention in the actual tutorial. If you want the cut-out text to be transparent for whatever reason (maybe to make it look like text really had been cut out of the paper) it only takes a couple of extra steps:
1. After you've added the drop-shadow, select the 'Background' layer and choose Layer > Transparency > Add Alpha Channel.
2. Select the layer with text on it. Choose the text tool and double click part of your text (click OK if any dialogs pop-up). Click the 'Create path from text' button again and then Select > From Path.
3. Select the 'Background' layer again and hit Ctrl+X.
4. Finally, select your text layer again and choose Layer > Transparency > Color to Alpha and change the colour to the exact same colur as your text.

If you found this helpful I don't expect you to it but a comment would be nice.

If you can't find the drop-shadow Script-Fu effect you might want to update to at least GIMP 2.2 (I'm pretty sure it's included with that). The other option is to download the script here and save it to GIMP's scripts directory.

]]> http://eriksonfifth.deviantart.com/art/Marker-White-Gel-Pen-effect-24180020 http://eriksonfifth.deviantart.com/art/Marker-White-Gel-Pen-effect-24180020 Tue, 18 Oct 2005 14:57:50 PDT Marker + White Gel Pen effect nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/paintshoppro eriksonfifth http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/e/r/eriksonfifth.gif Copyright 2005-2013 ~eriksonfifth
Insanely, insanely simple. But everything is easier with a visual.

By the way, it mentions having a separate tutorial for white background stuff. Err. That's in the works. But basically, all you do is add in an extra step: make a multiply layer filled with one colour before you make the shading layer. Ta-da! Done. ]]>
Insanely, insanely simple. But everything is easier with a visual.

By the way, it mentions having a separate tutorial for white background stuff. Err. That's in the works. But basically, all you do is add in an extra step: make a multiply layer filled with one colour before you make the shading layer. Ta-da! Done.

]]> http://slayer0zz.deviantart.com/art/Abstract-Fire-Tut-26015961 http://slayer0zz.deviantart.com/art/Abstract-Fire-Tut-26015961 Sun, 04 Dec 2005 15:00:49 PST Abstract Fire Tut nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Slayer0zZ http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/s/l/slayer0zz.gif Copyright 2005-2013 ~Slayer0zZ

]]> http://saffiremoon21.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-Basic-98506517 http://saffiremoon21.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-Basic-98506517 Sat, 20 Sep 2008 15:25:58 PDT Tutorial- Basic nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/thegimp saffiremoon21 http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/s/a/saffiremoon21.gif Copyright 2008-2013 ~saffiremoon21
...

To resize images, go to "Image>Scale Image" or to crop, select the area you want to remain, and go to "Image>Crop to Selection"

The purpose of the mysterious gray blotch in this tutorial is to keep the brushes from "interrupting" the main focus of the photomanip. If you WANT brushes to be running through faces/whatnot, you can skip the gray blotch step, but it'll make your work look more messy.

Also, you can use a solid color or another photo for the color layer. I prefer using gradients because they're fairly simple.

It should also be noted, that this style works best with images that have a background you want to keep. For images with a white/solid color/boring background you should use the Free Select Tool to take out the image first, and continue. You'll probably need to use more color layers in order to make the background interesting.

To change an image to just one color (it's like black and white with a color laid on it), go to "Colors>Colorize" and play with the sliders.

In order to preserve your layers and transparency, save your file as a .xcf. I think GIMP can also save as a .psd, and it can open .psds. But don't quote me on that XD To save a final image, right click on the layer window and select "flatten image" and save as a .jpg. If you want to preserve transparency in your final, exportable image, save as a .png. .gifs can handle animation.

I use brushes from and in this tutorial. In order to get brushes into GIMP, find your C drive, and go to Program Files. Find GIMP's folder and go to "Share>gimp>2.0>brushes" and just drag the brushes into the folder.

go here to download GIMP for Windows: [link]

I'd love to see what you all make using this tutorial so link me if you do something!

If you have any questions on how to do things, just ask =O ]]>
...

To resize images, go to "Image>Scale Image" or to crop, select the area you want to remain, and go to "Image>Crop to Selection"

The purpose of the mysterious gray blotch in this tutorial is to keep the brushes from "interrupting" the main focus of the photomanip. If you WANT brushes to be running through faces/whatnot, you can skip the gray blotch step, but it'll make your work look more messy.

Also, you can use a solid color or another photo for the color layer. I prefer using gradients because they're fairly simple.

It should also be noted, that this style works best with images that have a background you want to keep. For images with a white/solid color/boring background you should use the Free Select Tool to take out the image first, and continue. You'll probably need to use more color layers in order to make the background interesting.

To change an image to just one color (it's like black and white with a color laid on it), go to "Colors>Colorize" and play with the sliders.

In order to preserve your layers and transparency, save your file as a .xcf. I think GIMP can also save as a .psd, and it can open .psds. But don't quote me on that XD To save a final image, right click on the layer window and select "flatten image" and save as a .jpg. If you want to preserve transparency in your final, exportable image, save as a .png. .gifs can handle animation.

I use brushes from and in this tutorial. In order to get brushes into GIMP, find your C drive, and go to Program Files. Find GIMP's folder and go to "Share>gimp>2.0>brushes" and just drag the brushes into the folder.

go here to download GIMP for Windows: [link]

I'd love to see what you all make using this tutorial so link me if you do something!

If you have any questions on how to do things, just ask =O

]]> http://fence-post.deviantart.com/art/GIMP-Scripts-quot-Mad-Lib-quot-Style-77355627 http://fence-post.deviantart.com/art/GIMP-Scripts-quot-Mad-Lib-quot-Style-77355627 Thu, 14 Feb 2008 06:17:40 PST GIMP Scripts "Mad Lib" Style nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/thegimp fence-post http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/f/e/fence-post.jpg Copyright 2008-2013 ~fence-post http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/
The script we create allows you to change many of GIMP's defaults with a single click. The defaults include changing the foreground/background colors, the font, the brush, the pattern, and gradient. So, if you have a favorite setup you like to use for sig making, you can get to it with the click of a button. If you have a favorite setup you like for your larger pieces, you can set one up for that. If you just want to easily get all the "Normal" defaults back with the click of a button, set one up for that too. You can have as many as you want.

Click on the Download link to the left to download a zip file. In the zip file you will see an html file, an Images folder, and the template script (MyDefaults.scm). Copy and paste (or drag and drop) all of the zip file contents to the same location on your harddrive. Then, double-click the html file to open the tutorial. The Image folder contains all of the images for the tutorial. As long as the images folder and html file are in the same location, you'll be able to see the images in your web browser.

Have fun "Mad Lib" Scripting.

Let me know if you have any questions or run into any snags.

Art ]]>
The script we create allows you to change many of GIMP's defaults with a single click. The defaults include changing the foreground/background colors, the font, the brush, the pattern, and gradient. So, if you have a favorite setup you like to use for sig making, you can get to it with the click of a button. If you have a favorite setup you like for your larger pieces, you can set one up for that. If you just want to easily get all the "Normal" defaults back with the click of a button, set one up for that too. You can have as many as you want.

Click on the Download link to the left to download a zip file. In the zip file you will see an html file, an Images folder, and the template script (MyDefaults.scm). Copy and paste (or drag and drop) all of the zip file contents to the same location on your harddrive. Then, double-click the html file to open the tutorial. The Image folder contains all of the images for the tutorial. As long as the images folder and html file are in the same location, you'll be able to see the images in your web browser.

Have fun "Mad Lib" Scripting.

Let me know if you have any questions or run into any snags.

Art

]]> http://art-anti-de.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-Photoshop-with-mouse-128863129 http://art-anti-de.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-Photoshop-with-mouse-128863129 Thu, 09 Jul 2009 08:42:13 PDT Tutorial: Photoshop with mouse nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop art-anti-de http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/a/r/art-anti-de.gif?2 Copyright 2009-2013 ~art-anti-de Tutorial: How to paint smooth images in Photoshop without a pen tablet (mouse only).

Intro: Having a pen tablet makes it more easy to draw smooth gradients and fine lines. But it is possible to draw and paint with a mouse: The secret is to use a brush that draws a lot of lines with one stroke.

Brushes: You can download my brushes from [link] or you can build your own - they are quite simple. My set contains 3 brushes:

mouse_strokes_curve

• makes 4 relatively fat lines


• the stroke "bends" when drawing curves

mouse_strokes_direction

• the same 4 fat lines


• but it stays in the initial direction -> The first movement rotates the lines. Example: When you start stroking downwards the lines will be horizontally next to each other, but when you continue this stroke in a curve to the right the lines will start to overlap.


• therefor its not that handy for drawing. but great to add some randomness (like for hair)

mouse_strokes_finecurve:

• will produce many fine lines


• bends with curve (no overlap)


• "sketchy" because the brushtip is not cirles but thin lines

The standard size of the brushes is about 70px.
The standard opacity (and flow) is 100%.
You'll have to adjust those values regularly according to your needs (needles to say...).
You can see an example of the brushes under step 2.

I'll now add a short walktrough (although there is info under each step too) with additional explainations and an expanded tips-section.

Walkthrough
Start with an image big enough for small details. At least 1000px x 1000px. All photoshop brushes get washy at very small sizes (under 3px). I prefer a 50% grey background. I sketched in a general pose and composition (remember, you can move and scale it till it looks interesting). I made a portrait, but you can do anything... (->1.)

First thing: I selected a little cirle in a corner of my workspace and drew a reference sphere (->2.). Do it and look at it regularly! Now you know where to put your light and dark sides. I didn't use the whole range from white to black because it gives you the freedom to add stuff later.

Everything you have to do now is: Smoothing, sharpening, smoothing, sharpening... Keep switching between your brushes, opacity and size.

Tips

• Use mid-opacity and overlaping strokes to make smooth blendings and hatching


• Follow the form with your strokes


• quickly pick up mixed tones wit the Alt key


• use a photo reference, especially if you got problems with lighting. Collect photos and practice drawing from ref


• you can use the number row on the keyboard to quickly change the opacity


• use keyboard shortcuts to in-/decrease brush size


• or use right mouseclick


• make your image interesting: high contrast and sharp edges in the focus point -> blur the lines that are out of focus with the finecurve brush

The Master Tip for everyone with a fast computer: The Paint-Brush is not the only tool with a "brushtip"... e.g. Erasers and SMUDGE (great!) can have the same fine adjustments. Especially the lot'o'lines preset works great with smudge (and eats your CPU).


brushes: [link] ]]> Tutorial: How to paint smooth images in Photoshop without a pen tablet (mouse only).

Intro: Having a pen tablet makes it more easy to draw smooth gradients and fine lines. But it is possible to draw and paint with a mouse: The secret is to use a brush that draws a lot of lines with one stroke.

Brushes: You can download my brushes from [link] or you can build your own - they are quite simple. My set contains 3 brushes:

mouse_strokes_curve

• makes 4 relatively fat lines


• the stroke "bends" when drawing curves

mouse_strokes_direction

• the same 4 fat lines


• but it stays in the initial direction -> The first movement rotates the lines. Example: When you start stroking downwards the lines will be horizontally next to each other, but when you continue this stroke in a curve to the right the lines will start to overlap.


• therefor its not that handy for drawing. but great to add some randomness (like for hair)

mouse_strokes_finecurve:

• will produce many fine lines


• bends with curve (no overlap)


• "sketchy" because the brushtip is not cirles but thin lines

The standard size of the brushes is about 70px.
The standard opacity (and flow) is 100%.
You'll have to adjust those values regularly according to your needs (needles to say...).
You can see an example of the brushes under step 2.

I'll now add a short walktrough (although there is info under each step too) with additional explainations and an expanded tips-section.

Walkthrough
Start with an image big enough for small details. At least 1000px x 1000px. All photoshop brushes get washy at very small sizes (under 3px). I prefer a 50% grey background. I sketched in a general pose and composition (remember, you can move and scale it till it looks interesting). I made a portrait, but you can do anything... (->1.)

First thing: I selected a little cirle in a corner of my workspace and drew a reference sphere (->2.). Do it and look at it regularly! Now you know where to put your light and dark sides. I didn't use the whole range from white to black because it gives you the freedom to add stuff later.

Everything you have to do now is: Smoothing, sharpening, smoothing, sharpening... Keep switching between your brushes, opacity and size.

Tips

• Use mid-opacity and overlaping strokes to make smooth blendings and hatching


• Follow the form with your strokes


• quickly pick up mixed tones wit the Alt key


• use a photo reference, especially if you got problems with lighting. Collect photos and practice drawing from ref


• you can use the number row on the keyboard to quickly change the opacity


• use keyboard shortcuts to in-/decrease brush size


• or use right mouseclick


• make your image interesting: high contrast and sharp edges in the focus point -> blur the lines that are out of focus with the finecurve brush

The Master Tip for everyone with a fast computer: The Paint-Brush is not the only tool with a "brushtip"... e.g. Erasers and SMUDGE (great!) can have the same fine adjustments. Especially the lot'o'lines preset works great with smudge (and eats your CPU).


brushes: [link]

]]> http://hollychan.deviantart.com/art/TUT-Comic-Coloring-25114367 http://hollychan.deviantart.com/art/TUT-Comic-Coloring-25114367 Fri, 11 Nov 2005 13:43:57 PST TUT-Comic Coloring nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/paintshoppro hollychan http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/h/o/hollychan.png?1 Copyright 2005-2013 ~hollychan
Here's your tutorial, ... it's finally finished. *Dies* XP So sorry for the HUGE file, but it had to be done. XP If you want to have a faster loading version/want to be able to directly click the links instead of searching for them here, the HTML version of this lesson can be found on my website.

The links shown in the tutorial image are below, in order of appearance:

Text Links:
Lineart Tutorial (DA Mirror)
Magic Wand settings
Wand Selection
All white areas selected
Lineart with transparent background
Moving second lineart layer
Materials Palette
Materials Window
Gradient Option
Foreground-Background Gradient selection
Flood Fill Options
Gradient differences
Pen settings
Simple Mode ON
Simple Mode OFF
Bad gradient shading
Resize settings
Background Tutorial (Not finished)
Blambot
1001 Fonts
Text Tool settings


Thumbnail Links
Lineart
Screencap 1-B1
Screencap 1-B2
Screencap 1-B3
Screencap 1-B4
Screencap 2-A1
Screencap 2-B1
Screencap 2-B6
Screencap 3-A1
Screencap 3-A6
Screencap 3-A8
Screencap 3-B5
Screencap 3-B7
Background example
Page arrangement
Screencap 6-B6
Screencap 6-B9
Screencap 6-12

Hope this helps anyone that needs it. X.x

Holy freaking crap, the file's about 5 MB in size. SO very sorry, but I really didn't want to split it up into separate parts. >_<; If you have a slow connection, I HIGHLY suggest you look at the HTML version of this instead. ]]>
Here's your tutorial, ... it's finally finished. *Dies* XP So sorry for the HUGE file, but it had to be done. XP If you want to have a faster loading version/want to be able to directly click the links instead of searching for them here, the HTML version of this lesson can be found on my website.

The links shown in the tutorial image are below, in order of appearance:

Text Links:
Lineart Tutorial (DA Mirror)
Magic Wand settings
Wand Selection
All white areas selected
Lineart with transparent background
Moving second lineart layer
Materials Palette
Materials Window
Gradient Option
Foreground-Background Gradient selection
Flood Fill Options
Gradient differences
Pen settings
Simple Mode ON
Simple Mode OFF
Bad gradient shading
Resize settings
Background Tutorial (Not finished)
Blambot
1001 Fonts
Text Tool settings


Thumbnail Links
Lineart
Screencap 1-B1
Screencap 1-B2
Screencap 1-B3
Screencap 1-B4
Screencap 2-A1
Screencap 2-B1
Screencap 2-B6
Screencap 3-A1
Screencap 3-A6
Screencap 3-A8
Screencap 3-B5
Screencap 3-B7
Background example
Page arrangement
Screencap 6-B6
Screencap 6-B9
Screencap 6-12

Hope this helps anyone that needs it. X.x

Holy freaking crap, the file's about 5 MB in size. SO very sorry, but I really didn't want to split it up into separate parts. >_<; If you have a slow connection, I HIGHLY suggest you look at the HTML version of this instead.

]]> http://leksbronks.deviantart.com/art/The-Bronks-devart-Tutorial-2746308 http://leksbronks.deviantart.com/art/The-Bronks-devart-Tutorial-2746308 Tue, 19 Aug 2003 14:21:16 PDT The Bronks devart Tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop leksbronks http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/l/e/leksbronks.jpg Copyright 2003-2013 ~leksbronks The text of this tutorial has been copied here just for back-up.. for the complete tutorial and images, please visit the tutorial page.

[link]

--------------

Welcome to the first (thought out) Leks Bronks tutorial! Partially inspired by the suggestions of fellow artists, what you are about to see will cover two specific areas – my general inking / colouring technique, and a basic overview for the construction of the head of my character, Bronks.

First of all, the tools! Every artist needs his or her tools, and if you’re curious as to how I do my work, you’ll need to know what tools I use. There are a variety of tools for every step of the process – I have included what I use down to the specific brand, and while you don’t necessarily have to use these exact brands and tools I highly recommend them.

Paper

Bristol Board (Bienfang smooth surface)
-or-
Paris Bleedproof (Borden & Riley #234)

Drawing

Blue pencil (Col-erase erasable #20068 light blue)
Kneaded eraser (General’s / Sanford standard)

Inking

Rapidograph pens
.35 (1st lining)
.50 (2nd lining)
.60 (large fill / optional for bigger pieces)
Rapidograph ink (Ultradraw waterproof 3085-F)

Scanning

HP Scanjet 3400C (about 50 bucks US)

Colouring

A decently running computer (at least 1 Ghz and 256M of RAM for smooth sailing).
Adobe Photoshop
Aiptek Hyperpen 12000U tablet (good stylus response)

Now, time for the process. We begin, quite simply, in pencil – blue pencil, to be specific. Why? Because when scanning your drawing after inking, it will be easier to remove the pencil from your inked lines, making a good, clean transfer. Cleanliness and sharp resolution is the key to having a good finished image. The paper I use is Bristol Board, which is a very durable, thick and non-crinkling paper grade that works really good with Rapidograph inks. It also erases effortlessly, even if you draw heavily like I do. Paris Bleedproof is also good, but I find it to be a bit repellant to heavy ink usage.

Ok, the sketch is a success! Now we can begin the first layer of inking, which will require the Rapidograph pens. I personally like to start out at the gauge of .35; this seems to be the nicest size for basic outlining because it isn’t too thick or thin. However, for larger images or images that require a lot of solid black, sometimes I will start out at gauge .50.

Trace over the pencil, being careful not to push too hard, because they tend to leak from the base after too much abuse. That and drawing lightly helps keep the ink flowing smoothly and evenly, without jagged dry spots. Don’t worry about adding any weight or depth to your lines yet, that will be handled in the next step. Just do a simple trace. At this stage in the game you should have something that looks similar to this (I usually erase all of my pencil lines after the first layer of inking, but I will leave them intact for this tutorial):

As you can see, the image’s lines have no sense of depth yet; that’s coming next. Now, using the next size of Rapidograph pen (.50), retrace the lines you just inked, this time adding some extra weight to them. As an artist and with practice you will figure out on your own where to thicken the lines, and where to leave them thin; it’s all a matter of taste and where your light source is coming from. At this point, also add in any additional ink details you wish to have, defining the most concentrated shadows with crosshatching, contouring, etc. Try experimenting between sizes of Rapidograph pens to get different sized lines to accent your drawing. Remember to be sparse with your crosshatching, because most of the shading will be done digitally and too much ink shading may inadvertently change the appearance of your finished image.


Now that your inking is finished, it is time to scan it in.

Image scan at 300 dpi (Dots Per Inch) Most scanners default at 200.
Colour settings should be at 16 million + colours or full colour photograph (NO B+W).

I repeat - the key to a good piece of art is to have a proper foundation to work from – high resolution and full colour! Check your scanner’s settings, each brand is a little different but they all can accomplish the same goals.

After scanning your image, you are now ready to tweak the settings and prepare the inked image for digital colouring. Bring the scanned image into Photoshop, and open the Levels controls (Image > Adjust > Levels or Cntl+L). At this stage, you are going to eliminate the blue pencil lines – with your mouse grab the far right arrow on the grid (as illustrated below with the red circle) and drag it to the left until all of the white turns to pure white and most of the blue pencil is eliminated. Depending on the scan, you should only need to pull it about a quarter of the way, as indicated. You will notice as all the areas that should be white turn pure white and the black ink lightens up to grey – this is good.

After setting the Levels, it is time to mess with the curves. Open the Curves Toolbox (Image > Adjust > Curves or Cntl +M) and click on the black eyedropper (indicated in the image below) and then click on a black area of your image. You will notice as all the darkened lines of your image will turn from grey to completely black. Now click on the white eyedropper (on the right) and select the white part of the canvas. The white parts of your image will turn pure white, but you may not notice the change.

Now if you still see any sign of blue pencil in your image, you will return once more to the Levels Toolbox (if you see no more blue pencil then skip this step). Once again drag the far right arrow to the left until the blue disappears. Be careful not to go too far, or the black lines will begin to deteriorate. Final smoothing can be done by hand, i.e. filling in jagged spots. Spots and smudges still present in the white can be brushed out with pure white.

Now with any luck, your scanned ink image is ready for digital colouring. Here we’re going to separate our single scanned image into workable layers. Right-click over the Background layer and select duplicate layer, then rename the new layer “INK” for easy reference. Select the original background layer and fill with white (Edit > Fill > Fill with White). The top layer (INK)’s attribute should then be set to Multiply, which you fill find in the drop-down menu at the top of the Layers box (see following example):

The Multiply setting will turn all but the black lines of the layer transparent, allowing colour to show through from underneath except through the opaque black, simulating a ‘digital ink’. You are now ready to add colour. Add a new layer, and place the new player in between the top layer (INK) and the white background layer. Rename the new layer to “Bronks” (or whatever you like). This new layer should remain at 100% opacity with attribute set to Normal, and will be our first flat colour layer.

For those who are following along to learn how Bronks is made, here are the exact colours I use for flat base colour (in hex code):

Fur – 8A2BE2
Eyes – DFFDFF
Eye Circles / eyelids – 7F3D5C
Nose Bridge – B177E6 (slight airbrushed highlight)
Earrings – E0D258

For my flat base colouring I tend to use the Paintbrush tool, with opacity and hardness at 100%, and I fill in each area with the proper colour. As you’ll notice in the following example, I make a separate layer for each separate colour and/or part of the face – this will make it much easier to marquee these areas later for shading.

At this point, we should have each and every layer of the image flat-coloured. Be sure to clean up any colour that may have escaped the outlines, and to fill in any clear spots between colours.

We are now ready to begin the shading process. We will start by shading the fur. First, make a new layer right above the flat coloured “Bronks” layer, name it something like “SH_Bronks”, and change the layer’s opacity to 50%. This will be our first shading layer.

Next, we will set our brush and select a shading colour. Depending on what you’re shading you can use either air or paintbrush, and the hardness level will vary. Airbrush works best for softer detail, and Paintbrush works well for sharper, heavier detail. With fur, I usually use Paintbrush, turn the hardness down to 25% or below and keep brush opacity at 100%, because the shading layer is set to 50% opacity anyway. As for colour, I usually work with a darker shade of the layer’s flat colour. This is selected by using the Eyedropper Tool, clicking on the flat colour being shaded, and then dropping the colour down to a darker shade in the Colour Picker box. To ensure that your shading does not escape beyond the flat colour layer, we will marquee the entire layer by holding down Cntl and clicking over the flat colour layer (in this case, you will click on the “Bronks” colour layer). Now you should see a marquee all around everything in the Bronks layer, and this means you can only colour over these areas. Very handy in preventing shading/highlighting halos.

Apply the first layer of shading with your brush (making sure that you’re on the SH_Bronks layer). As you may notice in the example there is no need to get too complex yet, you can use large brush sizes and quick strokes here because a second shade layer will be added for finer detail.

The example below shows the shading layer settings and colour chosen for first shade (indicated by red in the image).

Now repeat the last few steps again, this time making a new layer (SH2_Bronks) and placing it above the first shade layer. Like the first, it should be at 50% opacity. Select your next shade colour with the Eyedropper method, this time dropping the colour to an even darker shade. For this layer you may want to drop your brush size down a little, because here we will add not only another layer of shade to add a sense of depth to it, but we will also use this layer to accent smaller, more detailed shadows like those that outline certain areas (like around the lips, eyes, and strands of hair in the fur).

Highlight time. There’s nothing special about this step – you simply repeat the last few steps, creating the highlights in the same exact fashion as the shadows, only this time we’re going to work with tints instead of shades. This new layer should be named something like “HL_Bronks”.

The second highlight layer (HL2_Bronks) is the finer highlight detail, and I use this layer to outline and add individual fur strands. For this layer, I use pure white.

Repeating these steps, continue to shade and highlight each separate section, placing the new layers above the flat layers to be shaded.

You can add your background, or leave it blank, whatever you want. Here’s a key word – EXPERIMENT! Use this tutorial as a base, but be sure to experiment with all the different things Photoshop has available to you. With time and practice you’ll develop your own sense of colouring, and start varying your opacity levels and colours to achieve different effects.

And that’s about it, from here on out the rest is up to you. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and that it was helpful for you. ]]> The text of this tutorial has been copied here just for back-up.. for the complete tutorial and images, please visit the tutorial page.

[link]

--------------

Welcome to the first (thought out) Leks Bronks tutorial! Partially inspired by the suggestions of fellow artists, what you are about to see will cover two specific areas – my general inking / colouring technique, and a basic overview for the construction of the head of my character, Bronks.

First of all, the tools! Every artist needs his or her tools, and if you’re curious as to how I do my work, you’ll need to know what tools I use. There are a variety of tools for every step of the process – I have included what I use down to the specific brand, and while you don’t necessarily have to use these exact brands and tools I highly recommend them.

Paper

Bristol Board (Bienfang smooth surface)
-or-
Paris Bleedproof (Borden & Riley #234)

Drawing

Blue pencil (Col-erase erasable #20068 light blue)
Kneaded eraser (General’s / Sanford standard)

Inking

Rapidograph pens
.35 (1st lining)
.50 (2nd lining)
.60 (large fill / optional for bigger pieces)
Rapidograph ink (Ultradraw waterproof 3085-F)

Scanning

HP Scanjet 3400C (about 50 bucks US)

Colouring

A decently running computer (at least 1 Ghz and 256M of RAM for smooth sailing).
Adobe Photoshop
Aiptek Hyperpen 12000U tablet (good stylus response)

Now, time for the process. We begin, quite simply, in pencil – blue pencil, to be specific. Why? Because when scanning your drawing after inking, it will be easier to remove the pencil from your inked lines, making a good, clean transfer. Cleanliness and sharp resolution is the key to having a good finished image. The paper I use is Bristol Board, which is a very durable, thick and non-crinkling paper grade that works really good with Rapidograph inks. It also erases effortlessly, even if you draw heavily like I do. Paris Bleedproof is also good, but I find it to be a bit repellant to heavy ink usage.

Ok, the sketch is a success! Now we can begin the first layer of inking, which will require the Rapidograph pens. I personally like to start out at the gauge of .35; this seems to be the nicest size for basic outlining because it isn’t too thick or thin. However, for larger images or images that require a lot of solid black, sometimes I will start out at gauge .50.

Trace over the pencil, being careful not to push too hard, because they tend to leak from the base after too much abuse. That and drawing lightly helps keep the ink flowing smoothly and evenly, without jagged dry spots. Don’t worry about adding any weight or depth to your lines yet, that will be handled in the next step. Just do a simple trace. At this stage in the game you should have something that looks similar to this (I usually erase all of my pencil lines after the first layer of inking, but I will leave them intact for this tutorial):

As you can see, the image’s lines have no sense of depth yet; that’s coming next. Now, using the next size of Rapidograph pen (.50), retrace the lines you just inked, this time adding some extra weight to them. As an artist and with practice you will figure out on your own where to thicken the lines, and where to leave them thin; it’s all a matter of taste and where your light source is coming from. At this point, also add in any additional ink details you wish to have, defining the most concentrated shadows with crosshatching, contouring, etc. Try experimenting between sizes of Rapidograph pens to get different sized lines to accent your drawing. Remember to be sparse with your crosshatching, because most of the shading will be done digitally and too much ink shading may inadvertently change the appearance of your finished image.


Now that your inking is finished, it is time to scan it in.

Image scan at 300 dpi (Dots Per Inch) Most scanners default at 200.
Colour settings should be at 16 million + colours or full colour photograph (NO B+W).

I repeat - the key to a good piece of art is to have a proper foundation to work from – high resolution and full colour! Check your scanner’s settings, each brand is a little different but they all can accomplish the same goals.

After scanning your image, you are now ready to tweak the settings and prepare the inked image for digital colouring. Bring the scanned image into Photoshop, and open the Levels controls (Image > Adjust > Levels or Cntl+L). At this stage, you are going to eliminate the blue pencil lines – with your mouse grab the far right arrow on the grid (as illustrated below with the red circle) and drag it to the left until all of the white turns to pure white and most of the blue pencil is eliminated. Depending on the scan, you should only need to pull it about a quarter of the way, as indicated. You will notice as all the areas that should be white turn pure white and the black ink lightens up to grey – this is good.

After setting the Levels, it is time to mess with the curves. Open the Curves Toolbox (Image > Adjust > Curves or Cntl +M) and click on the black eyedropper (indicated in the image below) and then click on a black area of your image. You will notice as all the darkened lines of your image will turn from grey to completely black. Now click on the white eyedropper (on the right) and select the white part of the canvas. The white parts of your image will turn pure white, but you may not notice the change.

Now if you still see any sign of blue pencil in your image, you will return once more to the Levels Toolbox (if you see no more blue pencil then skip this step). Once again drag the far right arrow to the left until the blue disappears. Be careful not to go too far, or the black lines will begin to deteriorate. Final smoothing can be done by hand, i.e. filling in jagged spots. Spots and smudges still present in the white can be brushed out with pure white.

Now with any luck, your scanned ink image is ready for digital colouring. Here we’re going to separate our single scanned image into workable layers. Right-click over the Background layer and select duplicate layer, then rename the new layer “INK” for easy reference. Select the original background layer and fill with white (Edit > Fill > Fill with White). The top layer (INK)’s attribute should then be set to Multiply, which you fill find in the drop-down menu at the top of the Layers box (see following example):

The Multiply setting will turn all but the black lines of the layer transparent, allowing colour to show through from underneath except through the opaque black, simulating a ‘digital ink’. You are now ready to add colour. Add a new layer, and place the new player in between the top layer (INK) and the white background layer. Rename the new layer to “Bronks” (or whatever you like). This new layer should remain at 100% opacity with attribute set to Normal, and will be our first flat colour layer.

For those who are following along to learn how Bronks is made, here are the exact colours I use for flat base colour (in hex code):

Fur – 8A2BE2
Eyes – DFFDFF
Eye Circles / eyelids – 7F3D5C
Nose Bridge – B177E6 (slight airbrushed highlight)
Earrings – E0D258

For my flat base colouring I tend to use the Paintbrush tool, with opacity and hardness at 100%, and I fill in each area with the proper colour. As you’ll notice in the following example, I make a separate layer for each separate colour and/or part of the face – this will make it much easier to marquee these areas later for shading.

At this point, we should have each and every layer of the image flat-coloured. Be sure to clean up any colour that may have escaped the outlines, and to fill in any clear spots between colours.

We are now ready to begin the shading process. We will start by shading the fur. First, make a new layer right above the flat coloured “Bronks” layer, name it something like “SH_Bronks”, and change the layer’s opacity to 50%. This will be our first shading layer.

Next, we will set our brush and select a shading colour. Depending on what you’re shading you can use either air or paintbrush, and the hardness level will vary. Airbrush works best for softer detail, and Paintbrush works well for sharper, heavier detail. With fur, I usually use Paintbrush, turn the hardness down to 25% or below and keep brush opacity at 100%, because the shading layer is set to 50% opacity anyway. As for colour, I usually work with a darker shade of the layer’s flat colour. This is selected by using the Eyedropper Tool, clicking on the flat colour being shaded, and then dropping the colour down to a darker shade in the Colour Picker box. To ensure that your shading does not escape beyond the flat colour layer, we will marquee the entire layer by holding down Cntl and clicking over the flat colour layer (in this case, you will click on the “Bronks” colour layer). Now you should see a marquee all around everything in the Bronks layer, and this means you can only colour over these areas. Very handy in preventing shading/highlighting halos.

Apply the first layer of shading with your brush (making sure that you’re on the SH_Bronks layer). As you may notice in the example there is no need to get too complex yet, you can use large brush sizes and quick strokes here because a second shade layer will be added for finer detail.

The example below shows the shading layer settings and colour chosen for first shade (indicated by red in the image).

Now repeat the last few steps again, this time making a new layer (SH2_Bronks) and placing it above the first shade layer. Like the first, it should be at 50% opacity. Select your next shade colour with the Eyedropper method, this time dropping the colour to an even darker shade. For this layer you may want to drop your brush size down a little, because here we will add not only another layer of shade to add a sense of depth to it, but we will also use this layer to accent smaller, more detailed shadows like those that outline certain areas (like around the lips, eyes, and strands of hair in the fur).

Highlight time. There’s nothing special about this step – you simply repeat the last few steps, creating the highlights in the same exact fashion as the shadows, only this time we’re going to work with tints instead of shades. This new layer should be named something like “HL_Bronks”.

The second highlight layer (HL2_Bronks) is the finer highlight detail, and I use this layer to outline and add individual fur strands. For this layer, I use pure white.

Repeating these steps, continue to shade and highlight each separate section, placing the new layers above the flat layers to be shaded.

You can add your background, or leave it blank, whatever you want. Here’s a key word – EXPERIMENT! Use this tutorial as a base, but be sure to experiment with all the different things Photoshop has available to you. With time and practice you’ll develop your own sense of colouring, and start varying your opacity levels and colours to achieve different effects.

And that’s about it, from here on out the rest is up to you. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and that it was helpful for you.

]]> http://scaredyash006.deviantart.com/art/Lineart-Tutorial-Photoshop-193861820 http://scaredyash006.deviantart.com/art/Lineart-Tutorial-Photoshop-193861820 Mon, 17 Jan 2011 13:04:58 PST Lineart Tutorial - Photoshop nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop ScaredyAsh006 http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/s/c/scaredyash006.gif?15 Copyright 2011-2013 ~ScaredyAsh006
I decided to make this because someone was asking for a tip in Photoshop and I wanted to make it simple and clear.

Update!!! Keyboard Shortcuts

Tutorial may benefit from adding keyboard shortcuts:

"
ctrl+alt+4 will select the fourth channel, which is barring any unusual circumstances (I actually don't know if this is the case with CMYK or not, research may be relevant here) usually the alpha channel

shift+backspace is a really quick way to fill (shift+backspace+enter almost always works, unless I've set up some wabby fill options prior)

There's also ctrl+a, ctrl+c and ctrl+v for the beginning of the process
"

Thanks for the Keyboard shortcut information

Hope this helps!!

Program- Photoshop

Comic (c) me ]]>
I decided to make this because someone was asking for a tip in Photoshop and I wanted to make it simple and clear.

Update!!! Keyboard Shortcuts

Tutorial may benefit from adding keyboard shortcuts:

"
ctrl+alt+4 will select the fourth channel, which is barring any unusual circumstances (I actually don't know if this is the case with CMYK or not, research may be relevant here) usually the alpha channel

shift+backspace is a really quick way to fill (shift+backspace+enter almost always works, unless I've set up some wabby fill options prior)

There's also ctrl+a, ctrl+c and ctrl+v for the beginning of the process
"

Thanks for the Keyboard shortcut information

Hope this helps!!

Program- Photoshop

Comic (c) me

]]> http://a-blue-fish.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-Tutorial-Pt-1-16476223 http://a-blue-fish.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-Tutorial-Pt-1-16476223 Thu, 24 Mar 2005 18:56:11 PST Photoshop Tutorial Pt. 1 nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop A-Blue-Fish http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/a/_/a-blue-fish.gif Copyright 2005-2013 ~A-Blue-Fish @_@ I'm sorry about the size, full view if you want to seen the screencaps.

My first Photoshop tutorial, so please bear with me while I try to explain. This is the first of many part, I'll go through how to color skin, hair, clothing, metal, shear and a whole mess of other stuff. >x> Let's get started then!

Tools: Scanner, Tablet, Photoshop 7.0

This was made for Photoshop 7, but I think it could work on other versions of Photoshop, the lower versions however, have an Airbrush tool instead of Soft pixel brushes, I think. This is easier to do with a tablet, but if you're really good with a mouse feel free to read on. @_@

Step 1: Choose a sketch. This is simple, I should even have to include this step. n_n Just choose anything you wanna color, if you wanna color the sketch I'm using, feel free to note me and I'll send it to you via email.

Step Two: Make a duplicate of the background layer. Go to Layer---> Duplicate Layer---> Click OK. After that, trash the background, not the copy! Then go to the layer window and move the Opacity of the layer down to about 50%. Then make a new layer above it and get a size 5 pixel hard round brush and start to outline the drawing as neatly as you can. Depending on how much detail you put in the time you'll spend outlining it.

Step 3 Make a layer below the outline and set a base color for the background, I'll get to making it better later. Make another layer above it and choose a color for the skin, I normally choose a color that's in between orange and yellow and towards the white. After that, get a 9-13 hard round brush and start coloring in the skin, you might have to use a smaller brush to get into the small spaces. After you're done; choose a darker tone, I prefer to use a light brown, and make the primary shadows. Be sure to choose a direction in which the light is coming in from. After you finished doing the shadows, choose the Smudge tool and get a size 17-21 soft edge round brush and smudge the shadows a little bit. Then, choose a darker brown for the secondary shadows. Use a size 9 soft pixel brush to make the secondary shadows, then get a smaller soft pixel round brush to smudge the shadows again. I do this all in just one layer.

Okay, that concludes it for this tutorial. +_+; Sorry it was short, but I didn't wannt overload you. I'll put up the second part tomorrow if I can. ]]> @_@ I'm sorry about the size, full view if you want to seen the screencaps.

My first Photoshop tutorial, so please bear with me while I try to explain. This is the first of many part, I'll go through how to color skin, hair, clothing, metal, shear and a whole mess of other stuff. >x> Let's get started then!

Tools: Scanner, Tablet, Photoshop 7.0

This was made for Photoshop 7, but I think it could work on other versions of Photoshop, the lower versions however, have an Airbrush tool instead of Soft pixel brushes, I think. This is easier to do with a tablet, but if you're really good with a mouse feel free to read on. @_@

Step 1: Choose a sketch. This is simple, I should even have to include this step. n_n Just choose anything you wanna color, if you wanna color the sketch I'm using, feel free to note me and I'll send it to you via email.

Step Two: Make a duplicate of the background layer. Go to Layer---> Duplicate Layer---> Click OK. After that, trash the background, not the copy! Then go to the layer window and move the Opacity of the layer down to about 50%. Then make a new layer above it and get a size 5 pixel hard round brush and start to outline the drawing as neatly as you can. Depending on how much detail you put in the time you'll spend outlining it.

Step 3 Make a layer below the outline and set a base color for the background, I'll get to making it better later. Make another layer above it and choose a color for the skin, I normally choose a color that's in between orange and yellow and towards the white. After that, get a 9-13 hard round brush and start coloring in the skin, you might have to use a smaller brush to get into the small spaces. After you're done; choose a darker tone, I prefer to use a light brown, and make the primary shadows. Be sure to choose a direction in which the light is coming in from. After you finished doing the shadows, choose the Smudge tool and get a size 17-21 soft edge round brush and smudge the shadows a little bit. Then, choose a darker brown for the secondary shadows. Use a size 9 soft pixel brush to make the secondary shadows, then get a smaller soft pixel round brush to smudge the shadows again. I do this all in just one layer.

Okay, that concludes it for this tutorial. +_+; Sorry it was short, but I didn't wannt overload you. I'll put up the second part tomorrow if I can.

]]> http://edgedrifter.deviantart.com/art/MyPaint-Background-Tutorial-156520500 http://edgedrifter.deviantart.com/art/MyPaint-Background-Tutorial-156520500 Sun, 07 Mar 2010 13:00:11 PST MyPaint Background Tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/other EdgeDrifter http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/e/d/edgedrifter.png?4 Copyright 2010-2013 ~EdgeDrifter
Download link should contain a zip file with an rtf and a terribly malformed ball background. I hope. I really haven't a clue how to make it work correctly. ^_^; Edit: Gah, got the files mixed up. Fixed now. Now contains both an .odt and a .rtf.

Correct Process for creating a background for MyPaint.

Take the image in question that you wish to be a background. This could be anything; a comic page, a simple border, a sketch or as grouped with this, a terribly shaded horridly malformed ball that brings shame and anger to all artists. ( I should know, I created the blight upon artistry for this).

Note: Creating an image you want to become a background in MyPaint is kind of a one step process. So far no image I've saved with MyPaint has ever failed to meet the 64*64 convention. However, it would still be prudent to take the image into another program just to add a clean border if you wish or decide just how spaced out your tiled image will be.

Okay now here is the part that seems to stop a few people. Your background will not work if it does not abide by a 64*64 convention. Meaning if you can't divide the height and width in pixels by 64 evenly (meaning without decimal points for those who remember any math whatsoever) then it won't work. It also from personal attempts must be a .png file as a jpg just shows up as some random color in your backgrounds folder.

So creating a fresh template is easy in something like the gimp, just keep the 64*64 convention in mind and you'll be fine as long as the file you put in the backgrounds folder is a .png. If however you're working off a file that doesn't divide like that simply go into the Gimp (or similar package) and change the canvas size.

For the Gimp:

1. Open the file in Gimp (obviously)
2. Go to the Image menu on the top bar and open it to find Canvas Size. Click it.
3. Now decide what you want the space around your tiled image to be like. A lot of space or very little. Rectangular or Square. Once you have this in mind change the dimensions to meet the proper convention as well as the shape you're going for.
4. (Optional) if you only want a part of the picture to tile at this point use the gimps offset box at the bottom to drag that part of the image within the frame displayed at your chose size.
5. (Optional) add a border. I like to do this but it may not work for your idea. (Didn't do this for the malformed ball).
6. Save the file as a .png and place in backgrounds folder. Hurrah, the next time you open MyPaint it will be in your backgrounds folder (hopefully).

Hopefully that was useful if not at least the thing is out of my head. I have a serious issue with lingering ideas and will eventually go insane if they aren't' acted upon at times. So this is a preemptive measure against this terrible yet humorous fate.

Bonus Step: Submitted by
According to OcSloth she runs into an issue where the background won't load when it has an alpha channel. Her solution was before save or export (depending on version of GIMP) that you flatten the image to be used and remove the alpha channel by right-clicking the layer in the layers panel and clicking "Remove Alpha Channel"

I had never run into this issue before because I built most of my images flat in the first place with no alpha channel. So feel free to thank her for her diligence.


Last Updated: Sunday, December 23, 2012 based on information provided by ]]>
Download link should contain a zip file with an rtf and a terribly malformed ball background. I hope. I really haven't a clue how to make it work correctly. ^_^; Edit: Gah, got the files mixed up. Fixed now. Now contains both an .odt and a .rtf.

Correct Process for creating a background for MyPaint.

Take the image in question that you wish to be a background. This could be anything; a comic page, a simple border, a sketch or as grouped with this, a terribly shaded horridly malformed ball that brings shame and anger to all artists. ( I should know, I created the blight upon artistry for this).

Note: Creating an image you want to become a background in MyPaint is kind of a one step process. So far no image I've saved with MyPaint has ever failed to meet the 64*64 convention. However, it would still be prudent to take the image into another program just to add a clean border if you wish or decide just how spaced out your tiled image will be.

Okay now here is the part that seems to stop a few people. Your background will not work if it does not abide by a 64*64 convention. Meaning if you can't divide the height and width in pixels by 64 evenly (meaning without decimal points for those who remember any math whatsoever) then it won't work. It also from personal attempts must be a .png file as a jpg just shows up as some random color in your backgrounds folder.

So creating a fresh template is easy in something like the gimp, just keep the 64*64 convention in mind and you'll be fine as long as the file you put in the backgrounds folder is a .png. If however you're working off a file that doesn't divide like that simply go into the Gimp (or similar package) and change the canvas size.

For the Gimp:

1. Open the file in Gimp (obviously)
2. Go to the Image menu on the top bar and open it to find Canvas Size. Click it.
3. Now decide what you want the space around your tiled image to be like. A lot of space or very little. Rectangular or Square. Once you have this in mind change the dimensions to meet the proper convention as well as the shape you're going for.
4. (Optional) if you only want a part of the picture to tile at this point use the gimps offset box at the bottom to drag that part of the image within the frame displayed at your chose size.
5. (Optional) add a border. I like to do this but it may not work for your idea. (Didn't do this for the malformed ball).
6. Save the file as a .png and place in backgrounds folder. Hurrah, the next time you open MyPaint it will be in your backgrounds folder (hopefully).

Hopefully that was useful if not at least the thing is out of my head. I have a serious issue with lingering ideas and will eventually go insane if they aren't' acted upon at times. So this is a preemptive measure against this terrible yet humorous fate.

Bonus Step: Submitted by
According to OcSloth she runs into an issue where the background won't load when it has an alpha channel. Her solution was before save or export (depending on version of GIMP) that you flatten the image to be used and remove the alpha channel by right-clicking the layer in the layers panel and clicking "Remove Alpha Channel"

I had never run into this issue before because I built most of my images flat in the first place with no alpha channel. So feel free to thank her for her diligence.


Last Updated: Sunday, December 23, 2012 based on information provided by

]]> http://darkdana666.deviantart.com/art/Simple-clouds-tutorial-59833824 http://darkdana666.deviantart.com/art/Simple-clouds-tutorial-59833824 Sun, 15 Jul 2007 01:36:36 PDT Simple clouds tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop darkdana666 http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/d/a/darkdana666.gif?1 Copyright 2007-2013 ~darkdana666 There is "greenmoon666" in the background, that is my LJ username.
Most people who play around in photoshop can find this out on there own, but for those who like shortcuts, I hope this will help. I do think this effect only looks good on small pics. I use it for icons. ]]> There is "greenmoon666" in the background, that is my LJ username.
Most people who play around in photoshop can find this out on there own, but for those who like shortcuts, I hope this will help. I do think this effect only looks good on small pics. I use it for icons.

]]> http://ls-dark.deviantart.com/art/Making-Of-Circular-6409887 http://ls-dark.deviantart.com/art/Making-Of-Circular-6409887 Thu, 08 Apr 2004 06:03:08 PDT Making Of Circular nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop ls-dark http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/l/s/ls-dark.gif Copyright 2004-2013 ~ls-dark

]]> http://zantinzuken.deviantart.com/art/Beginner-s-tutorial-50788693 http://zantinzuken.deviantart.com/art/Beginner-s-tutorial-50788693 Tue, 13 Mar 2007 12:46:26 PDT Beginner's tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop ZantinZuken http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/z/a/zantinzuken.gif Copyright 2007-2013 ~ZantinZuken http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nd/3.0/
It teaches: Simple Text, Brushing Backgrounds, Gaussian Blurring and Blending modes.

Brushes by:

My tutorials:
C4D beginner tutorial, Trainee tutorial, Beginner's tutorial, Advanced tutorial, IronMan tutorial. ]]>
It teaches: Simple Text, Brushing Backgrounds, Gaussian Blurring and Blending modes.

Brushes by:

My tutorials:
C4D beginner tutorial, Trainee tutorial, Beginner's tutorial, Advanced tutorial, IronMan tutorial.

]]> http://hollychan.deviantart.com/art/TUT-Inking-n-Importing-Lineart-24895938 http://hollychan.deviantart.com/art/TUT-Inking-n-Importing-Lineart-24895938 Sun, 06 Nov 2005 04:28:58 PST TUT:Inking n Importing Lineart nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/paintshoppro hollychan http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/h/o/hollychan.png?1 Copyright 2005-2013 ~hollychan *PSP 8 TUTORIAL

asked me to do a coloring tutorial for her. Technically, this is the first part of it -- I decided to explain how I ink/clean up lineart before I described how I colored. The website version of this (for those of you who have slower connections and/or want to be able to directly click links in the tutorial rather than look around for them here) can be found here.

Sorry for the large file size. Hope this helps anyone who needs it!

Text Links
Comic Coloring Tutorial (DA Mirror)
Col-Erase Pencils
Sakura Micron Pens
Sakura Brush Pens
Pen Settings
Drawing with Simple Mode On
Drawing with Simple Mode Off
White background colore, no foreground
Black foreground color, no background


Thumbnail Links
Drawing in blue pencil
Inked drawing
Scanned in lineart
4A screencap 1
4A Screencap 2
4A Screencap 3
Screencap 1D
Screencap 2D


Holy crap it's almost 7:30. I need to go to bed. ]]> *PSP 8 TUTORIAL

asked me to do a coloring tutorial for her. Technically, this is the first part of it -- I decided to explain how I ink/clean up lineart before I described how I colored. The website version of this (for those of you who have slower connections and/or want to be able to directly click links in the tutorial rather than look around for them here) can be found here.

Sorry for the large file size. Hope this helps anyone who needs it!

Text Links
Comic Coloring Tutorial (DA Mirror)
Col-Erase Pencils
Sakura Micron Pens
Sakura Brush Pens
Pen Settings
Drawing with Simple Mode On
Drawing with Simple Mode Off
White background colore, no foreground
Black foreground color, no background


Thumbnail Links
Drawing in blue pencil
Inked drawing
Scanned in lineart
4A screencap 1
4A Screencap 2
4A Screencap 3
Screencap 1D
Screencap 2D


Holy crap it's almost 7:30. I need to go to bed.

]]> http://darkraptr.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-for-Dummies-29934959 http://darkraptr.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-for-Dummies-29934959 Sun, 05 Mar 2006 09:19:06 PST Photoshop for Dummies nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop DarkRaptr http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/default.gif Copyright 2006-2013 ~DarkRaptr
By Dark- Lord of Darkness, Pie Devourer, and Uber Sexy Leet Dude.

First of all, you can get a trial of Adobe Photoshop CS2 at [link]
[link]

When you load up Photoshop, it'll look like this,
maybe a few changes depending on what version you have.

[link]

These are the main things that you'll need to know about if you're a beginner.

1- These are marquee selection & lasso tools. You can makes shapes with these.
They are useful so you can make text bars, blending, etc. Click the icon,
and drag around the cursor while clicking to make shapes.

2- This is the move tool. You can move layers, text, and images with this.
Simply click the icon, select a layer, and drag it around to move it.

3- This is the magic wand tool. It selects parts of the image. If an image is rendered correctly,
you can use it to cut away the unwanted parts.

4- This is the text tool. Click on the icon, then anywhere on the image to begin typing.

5- This is the color pallette. The color on top is the foreground color, the one at the
back is the background. Click on either one of them to change them. The arrows
will switch the background color with the foreground color. Click on the small
squares to set the colors back to default. (Black & White)

6- Clicking this button will open up the current image in ImageReady. ImageReady
is an animation program, where you can do various animations. (Not all versions come with this.)

7- This is your layers bin. You can duplicate layers here, move layers over each other,
change their blending options, and with the bar at the bottom you can color them and more.

8- This is your FILE menu. Useful Buttons are: New- Open-Browse-Open As-Open Recent.

9- This is your EDIT menu. Here you can transform layers, stroke images, fill layers, undo/redo,
cut,copy,paste, define brushes and patterns, etc.

10- This is your LAYER menu. Like the layer bin, you can make adjustments to your layers like
curves, levels, color balance, invert, hue/saturation, etc.

11- This is your SELECT menu. In this, you can select layers, transform them, grow, shrink, and feather them, etc.

11(2- I messed up lol)- This is your toolbar. Whenever you change to a different tool, you can change the tool options here.

12- This is your History bin. If you do something and decide you dont like it, you can click on the
action before it, and it will clear everything that happened after that point.

The other bar menus are:

Image- Not really needed for beginners, changes style, type, bit, etc.
Filter- You MIGHT use this. This holds all the image manipulations which you
can use to add spice to your image, etc.
View- Not used really, just for zooming, etc.
Window- You can add or remove windows on your PS, depending on yor comfort level.
Help- Just a help file & copyright, etc.

Hotkeys you should know:

Ctrl+N= New Image
Ctrl+O= Open Image
Ctrl+Z= Undo
Ctrl+Y= Redo
Ctrl+C= Copy
Ctrl+X= Cut
Ctrl+V= Paste
Ctrl+B= Color Balance
Ctrl+U= Hue/Saturation
Ctrl+A= Select All
Ctrl+D= Deselect
Ctrl+Shift+N= New Layer
Merge Layer= Ctrl+E

Hope you enjoyed this simple tut. I'll add more information soon ]]>
By Dark- Lord of Darkness, Pie Devourer, and Uber Sexy Leet Dude.

First of all, you can get a trial of Adobe Photoshop CS2 at [link]
[link]

When you load up Photoshop, it'll look like this,
maybe a few changes depending on what version you have.

[link]

These are the main things that you'll need to know about if you're a beginner.

1- These are marquee selection & lasso tools. You can makes shapes with these.
They are useful so you can make text bars, blending, etc. Click the icon,
and drag around the cursor while clicking to make shapes.

2- This is the move tool. You can move layers, text, and images with this.
Simply click the icon, select a layer, and drag it around to move it.

3- This is the magic wand tool. It selects parts of the image. If an image is rendered correctly,
you can use it to cut away the unwanted parts.

4- This is the text tool. Click on the icon, then anywhere on the image to begin typing.

5- This is the color pallette. The color on top is the foreground color, the one at the
back is the background. Click on either one of them to change them. The arrows
will switch the background color with the foreground color. Click on the small
squares to set the colors back to default. (Black & White)

6- Clicking this button will open up the current image in ImageReady. ImageReady
is an animation program, where you can do various animations. (Not all versions come with this.)

7- This is your layers bin. You can duplicate layers here, move layers over each other,
change their blending options, and with the bar at the bottom you can color them and more.

8- This is your FILE menu. Useful Buttons are: New- Open-Browse-Open As-Open Recent.

9- This is your EDIT menu. Here you can transform layers, stroke images, fill layers, undo/redo,
cut,copy,paste, define brushes and patterns, etc.

10- This is your LAYER menu. Like the layer bin, you can make adjustments to your layers like
curves, levels, color balance, invert, hue/saturation, etc.

11- This is your SELECT menu. In this, you can select layers, transform them, grow, shrink, and feather them, etc.

11(2- I messed up lol)- This is your toolbar. Whenever you change to a different tool, you can change the tool options here.

12- This is your History bin. If you do something and decide you dont like it, you can click on the
action before it, and it will clear everything that happened after that point.

The other bar menus are:

Image- Not really needed for beginners, changes style, type, bit, etc.
Filter- You MIGHT use this. This holds all the image manipulations which you
can use to add spice to your image, etc.
View- Not used really, just for zooming, etc.
Window- You can add or remove windows on your PS, depending on yor comfort level.
Help- Just a help file & copyright, etc.

Hotkeys you should know:

Ctrl+N= New Image
Ctrl+O= Open Image
Ctrl+Z= Undo
Ctrl+Y= Redo
Ctrl+C= Copy
Ctrl+X= Cut
Ctrl+V= Paste
Ctrl+B= Color Balance
Ctrl+U= Hue/Saturation
Ctrl+A= Select All
Ctrl+D= Deselect
Ctrl+Shift+N= New Layer
Merge Layer= Ctrl+E

Hope you enjoyed this simple tut. I'll add more information soon

]]> http://nagara-tutorials.deviantart.com/art/How-to-make-clean-Lineart-33665358 http://nagara-tutorials.deviantart.com/art/How-to-make-clean-Lineart-33665358 Mon, 22 May 2006 11:42:09 PDT How to make clean Lineart nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Nagara-tutorials http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/n/a/nagara-tutorials.gif Copyright 2006-2013 ~Nagara-tutorials Anyhow It was for a friend of mine that asked, more easy to show then to explain.. uhm yeha.

Ignore my gramma, please? I know it is horrible..

EDIT: When doing first thing removing white, the lineart must be on a new layer.. not be in setting background.

Can be found at my orginal account [link] also =aqullion ]]> Anyhow It was for a friend of mine that asked, more easy to show then to explain.. uhm yeha.

Ignore my gramma, please? I know it is horrible..

EDIT: When doing first thing removing white, the lineart must be on a new layer.. not be in setting background.

Can be found at my orginal account [link] also =aqullion

]]> http://hsngonewild.deviantart.com/art/Digital-font-effect-95734218 http://hsngonewild.deviantart.com/art/Digital-font-effect-95734218 Fri, 22 Aug 2008 20:51:01 PDT Digital font effect nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop HsnGoneWild http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/h/s/hsngonewild.gif Copyright 2008-2013 ~HsnGoneWild an old tut too, kind of complicated because i tried to summarize it as much as i could xD
_{unfortunately ,the tutorial is in arabic .i'll try to translate it later.}
<s> note </s> :
_{the font color is same as the background's color which is dark blue .}

xD a simple translation :-

the steps :-
*> File>new > any size you want .
*> fill background of the color was put above
*> write the wanted text
*> set it to linear dodge
*> then go to the text's blending options
-select the option (outer glow)
-chose the background's color as the glow's color too .after then set it to linear dodge then press ok .
*> then create a new layer ,and set the color white as the default color.
*> then press 'G';so a tool will be selected .
*> drag down the crosur from the top to the bottom ,apeakly.
*> (ctrl + G) .. (Ctrl+Alt+G in photoshop CS3)
we're done ]]> an old tut too, kind of complicated because i tried to summarize it as much as i could xD
_{unfortunately ,the tutorial is in arabic .i'll try to translate it later.}
<s> note </s> :
_{the font color is same as the background's color which is dark blue .}

xD a simple translation :-

the steps :-
*> File>new > any size you want .
*> fill background of the color was put above
*> write the wanted text
*> set it to linear dodge
*> then go to the text's blending options
-select the option (outer glow)
-chose the background's color as the glow's color too .after then set it to linear dodge then press ok .
*> then create a new layer ,and set the color white as the default color.
*> then press 'G';so a tool will be selected .
*> drag down the crosur from the top to the bottom ,apeakly.
*> (ctrl + G) .. (Ctrl+Alt+G in photoshop CS3)
we're done

]]> http://katied2.deviantart.com/art/Paprys-Textured-Background-36980543 http://katied2.deviantart.com/art/Paprys-Textured-Background-36980543 Thu, 27 Jul 2006 03:24:10 PDT Paprys Textured Background nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Katied2 http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/k/a/katied2.gif Copyright 2006-2013 ~Katied2
Did a mini tutorial for Photoshop. Enjoy and play around.

As this is my first tutorial it's a bit simple, no frills. Hope it helps. ]]>
Did a mini tutorial for Photoshop. Enjoy and play around.

As this is my first tutorial it's a bit simple, no frills. Hope it helps.

]]> http://saffadart.deviantart.com/art/Simple-Len-266236993 http://saffadart.deviantart.com/art/Simple-Len-266236993 Sun, 30 Oct 2011 16:00:09 PDT Simple-Len nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop saffadart http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/s/a/saffadart.jpg?1 Copyright 2011-2013 ~saffadart
Inspired by ]]>
Inspired by

]]> http://dragonhaze.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-sketchy-lines-124914288 http://dragonhaze.deviantart.com/art/Tutorial-sketchy-lines-124914288 Fri, 05 Jun 2009 14:54:19 PDT Tutorial - sketchy lines nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop DragonHaze http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/d/r/dragonhaze.png Copyright 2009-2013 ~DragonHaze
Upon request, here is a semi-tutorial on how to do those nice soft, sketchy lines in Photoshop. It is not a drawing tutorial, just settings and some basic tips I’ve picked up here, from others, and on my own. Hope this helps anyone willing to read all of it, and I’d be happy to answer any additional questions.

NOTE: Unfortunately, this is designed specifically for tablet users, as I don’t really use a mouse, and haven’t found a way to duplicate the results with one.

Follow the numbers in the picture...

1. This is my workspace, it’s set up mostly with defaults, but I prefer to work this way.
--You can set up your workspace however you want, just be sure you can get to what you need. (If you’re missing anything, you can find the palettes under “Window” and the top of the screen)

2. Use either file or this icon (in the green box) to open a new file, or open a file you already have.

3. The two tools that I will use in for lines are the “brush” tool, which responds well to tablets, and the “eraser” tool, to erase any mistakes.

4. What your new screen should look like if you created a new file.
-- The size of the canvas will differ depending upon how large you decided to make it, and keep in mind that larger files will require more computer memory to store and work on. As well, the larger the canvas and smaller the brush size, the finer the lines will look.

5. Here, I zoomed in on the canvas to make it easier to draw, and added a blank raster layer above the background.
-- It is a good idea not to work on the background because that layer is locked, and will be more difficult to edit later. Also, if you sketch on a new raster layer, your lines will have a transparent background and you can color underneath them without changing anything.

6. At the top of the screen you should find the brush settings tab, for more solid, simple lines, I prefer to use the “Hard Round” brush, generally size 5 or 3.
-- Feel free to experiment with the brush types, you may find something interesting!

7. After setting the brush type, open the “Tablet Options” menu and make sure that both size and opacity are checked, and then they will both be controlled by pen pressure. You can also check only size if you want darker lines.
-- Again, mess with settings if you want to find some cool effects.

8. These are some sample lines (and a sketch) of the same brush at the settings mentioned earlier.
-- A. is an example of when you push down hard on the tablet with the pen, while B. is drawn with less pressure.

9. A “finished” sketch using the same pen, and the eraser.

10. The same picture zoomed out, notice how the lines look smoother? Anytime you can start an image larger and then resize it smaller or zoom out, the little mistakes tend to disappear.

Alright, that’s the end! Thanks for reading! ]]>
Upon request, here is a semi-tutorial on how to do those nice soft, sketchy lines in Photoshop. It is not a drawing tutorial, just settings and some basic tips I’ve picked up here, from others, and on my own. Hope this helps anyone willing to read all of it, and I’d be happy to answer any additional questions.

NOTE: Unfortunately, this is designed specifically for tablet users, as I don’t really use a mouse, and haven’t found a way to duplicate the results with one.

Follow the numbers in the picture...

1. This is my workspace, it’s set up mostly with defaults, but I prefer to work this way.
--You can set up your workspace however you want, just be sure you can get to what you need. (If you’re missing anything, you can find the palettes under “Window” and the top of the screen)

2. Use either file or this icon (in the green box) to open a new file, or open a file you already have.

3. The two tools that I will use in for lines are the “brush” tool, which responds well to tablets, and the “eraser” tool, to erase any mistakes.

4. What your new screen should look like if you created a new file.
-- The size of the canvas will differ depending upon how large you decided to make it, and keep in mind that larger files will require more computer memory to store and work on. As well, the larger the canvas and smaller the brush size, the finer the lines will look.

5. Here, I zoomed in on the canvas to make it easier to draw, and added a blank raster layer above the background.
-- It is a good idea not to work on the background because that layer is locked, and will be more difficult to edit later. Also, if you sketch on a new raster layer, your lines will have a transparent background and you can color underneath them without changing anything.

6. At the top of the screen you should find the brush settings tab, for more solid, simple lines, I prefer to use the “Hard Round” brush, generally size 5 or 3.
-- Feel free to experiment with the brush types, you may find something interesting!

7. After setting the brush type, open the “Tablet Options” menu and make sure that both size and opacity are checked, and then they will both be controlled by pen pressure. You can also check only size if you want darker lines.
-- Again, mess with settings if you want to find some cool effects.

8. These are some sample lines (and a sketch) of the same brush at the settings mentioned earlier.
-- A. is an example of when you push down hard on the tablet with the pen, while B. is drawn with less pressure.

9. A “finished” sketch using the same pen, and the eraser.

10. The same picture zoomed out, notice how the lines look smoother? Anytime you can start an image larger and then resize it smaller or zoom out, the little mistakes tend to disappear.

Alright, that’s the end! Thanks for reading!

]]> http://orchid5683.deviantart.com/art/Edit-w-Tutorial-For-dA-Friend-182672301 http://orchid5683.deviantart.com/art/Edit-w-Tutorial-For-dA-Friend-182672301 Thu, 14 Oct 2010 14:54:21 PDT Edit w-Tutorial For dA Friend nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Orchid5683 http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/o/r/orchid5683.jpg?4 Copyright 2010-2013 ~Orchid5683 Awesome Mushroom Photograph by and she does some other amazing stuff as well! Check it out &

Edited and Re-Uploaded to dA with Artist Permission; Tutorial Below for PhotoShop-CS4 (Sorry, it is a walkthrough because I didn't know the artist's PS experience level) Original Next To Edit and Final Layers

And remember I had to work on the little low-quality image you have on dA; but you can change your original and it will look amazing!

Here's how you do it! (Don't worry, I know it looks like alot to read, but once you do it you will see that it is really very simple!
Open the pic in PShop and then hit CTRL+J to duplicate the layer

Now click the little eye next to the top layer to hide it(we will call it layer 1 on top, eventually 5 on the bottom)"Layer 1 is our untouched original for comparison at the end!"

Blown Out Recovery Layer~~>Click the visible(background) layer, we need to recover the stuff blown out by the flash before we can work with the image; Go to "Image" / "Adjustments" / "Shadows/Highlights" and then slide "Shadows" all the way to the left, and "Hightlights" all the way to the right; now check the box that says "Show More Options" and then in the 3rd section is "Adjustments" and use the settings "0/+30/10/0" (or play with the sliders until you like what you see)...then "Ok"...Now that's something we can work with!

Duplicate the current layer (CTRL+J) TWICE so you now have 4 layers. Remember 1=top, 4=bottom(background)

Detail Layer~~>Click layer 2 and go to the "Filter" menu at the top of the screen; choose "Other"/"High Pass" (you may have to hit "show all menu items"), type in "5" and press "Ok" (I used a setting of "3" on the smaller image) last step on this layer, on the right at the top of the "Layers" panel there is the "Blending Mode" that says "Normal"; change to "Overlay"; then to the right is the opacity saying "100%" so make it "50%" (If things look too detailed they look fake)

Brightening/Darkening Layer~~>Now still on layer 2, click the "New Layer" button(looks like a little folded piece of paper) and it will create the NEW "layer-2" and switch you to it(that's good). In your tools (probably on the left) there is a "Paint Bucket" tool that if you click and hold on it, you can change it to a "Gradient" tool. Make sure of your two colors, black on top(foreground) and white on bottom(background) and then fill the new layer with a standard black to white gradient by clicking at the bottom of the mushroom and dragging up to the top of your friend's head and letting go...Once that is done, last step on this layer, on the right at the top of the "Layers" panel there is the "Blending Mode" that says "Normal"; change to "Overlay"; then to the right is the opacity saying "100%" so make it "50%" (just play with it to see what you like), Notice we just brightened the top of the image while ALSO darkening the bottom!

Final Touches Layer!~~>We want the trees/house/your friend to all be a little more detailed, but the grass is detailed enough! So...Click layer 4 and go to your menus to "Filter" / "Sharpen" / "Unsharp Mask" and I liked the settings "175/2/0" (but I highly recommend playing with these sliders a bunch to learn how they work) and then here is the tricky part after hitting "Ok"; grab your eraser tool and then make the tool kinda big so you cover more ground (use square bracket keys [ and ] to change the size of your brush, and then use fancy brackets { and } to change the hardness of the edge, and you want a soft edge for blending - remember left brackets = softer/smaller, right brackets = harder/larger)and now erase from the bottom of the grass up until you like what you see.

Ok! Pretty much that should do it! Now to compare to the original image, just simply click on and off the little eye on Layer 1! Not bad eh? Enjoy! Your new photo-editing abilities will blow your friends and family away!!!

Follow-Up Finishing Touches Tutorial can be found here ]]> Awesome Mushroom Photograph by and she does some other amazing stuff as well! Check it out &

Edited and Re-Uploaded to dA with Artist Permission; Tutorial Below for PhotoShop-CS4 (Sorry, it is a walkthrough because I didn't know the artist's PS experience level) Original Next To Edit and Final Layers

And remember I had to work on the little low-quality image you have on dA; but you can change your original and it will look amazing!

Here's how you do it! (Don't worry, I know it looks like alot to read, but once you do it you will see that it is really very simple!
Open the pic in PShop and then hit CTRL+J to duplicate the layer

Now click the little eye next to the top layer to hide it(we will call it layer 1 on top, eventually 5 on the bottom)"Layer 1 is our untouched original for comparison at the end!"

Blown Out Recovery Layer~~>Click the visible(background) layer, we need to recover the stuff blown out by the flash before we can work with the image; Go to "Image" / "Adjustments" / "Shadows/Highlights" and then slide "Shadows" all the way to the left, and "Hightlights" all the way to the right; now check the box that says "Show More Options" and then in the 3rd section is "Adjustments" and use the settings "0/+30/10/0" (or play with the sliders until you like what you see)...then "Ok"...Now that's something we can work with!

Duplicate the current layer (CTRL+J) TWICE so you now have 4 layers. Remember 1=top, 4=bottom(background)

Detail Layer~~>Click layer 2 and go to the "Filter" menu at the top of the screen; choose "Other"/"High Pass" (you may have to hit "show all menu items"), type in "5" and press "Ok" (I used a setting of "3" on the smaller image) last step on this layer, on the right at the top of the "Layers" panel there is the "Blending Mode" that says "Normal"; change to "Overlay"; then to the right is the opacity saying "100%" so make it "50%" (If things look too detailed they look fake)

Brightening/Darkening Layer~~>Now still on layer 2, click the "New Layer" button(looks like a little folded piece of paper) and it will create the NEW "layer-2" and switch you to it(that's good). In your tools (probably on the left) there is a "Paint Bucket" tool that if you click and hold on it, you can change it to a "Gradient" tool. Make sure of your two colors, black on top(foreground) and white on bottom(background) and then fill the new layer with a standard black to white gradient by clicking at the bottom of the mushroom and dragging up to the top of your friend's head and letting go...Once that is done, last step on this layer, on the right at the top of the "Layers" panel there is the "Blending Mode" that says "Normal"; change to "Overlay"; then to the right is the opacity saying "100%" so make it "50%" (just play with it to see what you like), Notice we just brightened the top of the image while ALSO darkening the bottom!

Final Touches Layer!~~>We want the trees/house/your friend to all be a little more detailed, but the grass is detailed enough! So...Click layer 4 and go to your menus to "Filter" / "Sharpen" / "Unsharp Mask" and I liked the settings "175/2/0" (but I highly recommend playing with these sliders a bunch to learn how they work) and then here is the tricky part after hitting "Ok"; grab your eraser tool and then make the tool kinda big so you cover more ground (use square bracket keys [ and ] to change the size of your brush, and then use fancy brackets { and } to change the hardness of the edge, and you want a soft edge for blending - remember left brackets = softer/smaller, right brackets = harder/larger)and now erase from the bottom of the grass up until you like what you see.

Ok! Pretty much that should do it! Now to compare to the original image, just simply click on and off the little eye on Layer 1! Not bad eh? Enjoy! Your new photo-editing abilities will blow your friends and family away!!!

Follow-Up Finishing Touches Tutorial can be found here

]]> http://krissy.deviantart.com/art/fatigue-bleu-414910 http://krissy.deviantart.com/art/fatigue-bleu-414910 Tue, 11 Jun 2002 21:10:37 PDT fatigue bleu nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop krissy http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/k/r/krissy.jpg Copyright 2002-2013 *krissy
- I think it's fixed now, sorry about the problems, im still not sure of what happened, hehe. ^_^

(Oh ya, I'm still new to the Tutorials thing, and I figured this out just by messing with differen't Filters. It has a really unique look, since there are tons of differen't design things you can make for that type of background.) ]]>
- I think it's fixed now, sorry about the problems, im still not sure of what happened, hehe. ^_^

(Oh ya, I'm still new to the Tutorials thing, and I figured this out just by messing with differen't Filters. It has a really unique look, since there are tons of differen't design things you can make for that type of background.)

]]> http://digitails.deviantart.com/art/Dusk-Effect-29957086 http://digitails.deviantart.com/art/Dusk-Effect-29957086 Sun, 05 Mar 2006 17:42:21 PST Dusk Effect nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop DigiTails http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/d/i/digitails.gif Copyright 2006-2013 ~DigiTails
Its fairly simple, and should work with PS 7.0+...for those with older versions...its might still work, I dunno myself, so yeah. No harm in trying tho' in case yeh can do it. Plus its spiffeh and actually, very easy. The file's large tho'...should take about 5-10 minutes on dial-up... ]]>
Its fairly simple, and should work with PS 7.0+...for those with older versions...its might still work, I dunno myself, so yeah. No harm in trying tho' in case yeh can do it. Plus its spiffeh and actually, very easy. The file's large tho'...should take about 5-10 minutes on dial-up...

]]> http://totalgfx.deviantart.com/art/Really-Simple-Background-57933841 http://totalgfx.deviantart.com/art/Really-Simple-Background-57933841 Tue, 19 Jun 2007 05:51:09 PDT Really Simple Background nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop TotalGFX http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/default.gif Copyright 2007-2013 ~TotalGFX
Please take time to view:

[link]

for more tuts like this and great resources

Thanks
~ Total GFX ]]>
Please take time to view:

[link]

for more tuts like this and great resources

Thanks
~ Total GFX

]]> http://namuciziru.deviantart.com/art/How-I-do-my-colorin-stuff-18258184 http://namuciziru.deviantart.com/art/How-I-do-my-colorin-stuff-18258184 Thu, 12 May 2005 19:37:47 PDT How I do my colorin' stuff. nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/paintshoppro NamuCiziru http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/n/a/namuciziru.png?3 Copyright 2005-2013 ~NamuCiziru
For cause she needs it. No, no, I'm kidding, I'm kidding... or am I? *shifty eyes*
I forewarn you all, previous to making this tutorial I had an energy bar and am currently eating ice cream, I am very, very hyper. There may also be mild foul language, (ex: da**, sh**, etc) so if you can't take that go away or ignore it.

This is just a very basic tutorial on coloring with layers. Note that I am not that good with shading and stuff; this is supposed to help with getting clean lines around clean color -though I'll show my horrible shading tactics too. I'll try my best to dumb this down enough to make you all comfortable (sorry Tim, can't help). XP

Sorry, but for the first few steps there aren't many visuals, don't kill me! (I did the lineart before I realized I could use this as a subject for my tutorial )

Step one: LINEART
Kay, so you scanned your image and opened it in PSP 8. It should already be some funky layer type called "background". (Oh, did I mention you should already have your layer box-thing open? If it isn't, go to View- Palletes- Layers or hit F8) Now we leave that layer alone, we'll be deleting it eventually.

Now open up a new layer, either raster or vector. I don't know what the hell mask layers are so we'll skip over those, shall we? Name your layer "line art" because I will be referring to this later and if you don't you will be confused and I'll rally a large group of unitarian monks to laugh at you. A large, LARGE group. (mind you, I have no idea what a unitarian is, and I am not saying this in any offensive way, it was just the first thing I thought of that had "-arian" at the end so it had to be said. So no flaming!)
MAKE SURE YOUR NEW LAYER IS ON TOP OF YOUR OTHER ONE!! (first on the list)
-- RASTER LAYERS These layers are for drawing on right away; I did my older linework on these.
HOW TO USE RASTERS: I usually just trace over the original lines with the paint brush. Plain and simple.
--VECTOR LAYERS Now these are alot more time consuming, but if you make a big mistake, you don't have to "ctrl+z" it, which is good if you made the mistake a long time ago and for some reason can't use the eraser. But this brings about the bad parts: you can make the thing look too stiff and not-round if you're not good at it or lazy and that you have to make a new sub-layer thingie if you want to change the line thickness for different parts of the picture. Despite these drawbacks, I perfer this one.
HOW TO USE VECTORS: Make sure you go to the bathroom, get a snack, and make sure you have some good music now, because this may take a while. (Ice cream, check. Music, check. Bathroom... *afk* *ruches back, paniked* Crap, the toilet's broken again... I tells you all its NOT MY FAULT!!! Gah! We have some... plumbing problems. Always have.... GAH! Off topic!!! Focus Namu... where were we? Oh! Right! Vectoring!) This be where the "Pen" tool comes in handy. From what I know this is the only time the pen tool comes in handy... anyways. Here I tend to zoom in to at least 200% (depending on the size and detail of the picture of course). Then, with the pen tool people, click any one spot on a line where you want to start. Then click another spot on that line. Hey! A line formed between the dots! Looka that! In the words of "Its like connecting the dots, but you have to make the dots". Keep with that until you have outlined your whole thing.
Now, after you've tried this a little, you may be saying to me, "Hey! Namu! What the hell!? Not ALL of my lines are connected to eachother! I'ma smack-a yo' face!" Before there is a major smack-a my face, THERE IS AN ANSWER!!! *angelic music + light from above* Click ANY DOT that isn't the first or last dot in a series and then click somewhere else. New line! You may now apologize for thinking about smack-a my face by joining my evil leigons of the undead... *waits a bit, looks around* No? Damn...
Tips:
If you want to see your progress, click the "flood fill" aka "paintbucket" tool. It will sho' yo' lines foo'! Click the pen to go back to your click-a-thon 'o tediousness.
The more numerous your dots, the rounder you can make something seem. Unfortunatly, that also leaves a greater percentage for error, but because there is a greater percentage, mistakes will be less noticable.
Feel free to use multiple layers, even combinations of raster and vector.
With vector layers, up top it says "line thickness" and a number. Take a wild guess what that will do if ya mess around with it!
STEP ONE COMPLETE.
Take a break...
Step 2: COLORS
(If you are satisfied with any vector layers you have done, make sure to right click them and "promote to raster layer". This will get rid of your dots permanently [as far as I can figure])
And nooooow.... COLORIN TIME!!! Lets all sing and dance and be merry because it's-a colorin time!!!! (woo, the sugar's really kickin' in folks. Its gunna be a LOOOOOOOONG night!)
Again, NEW LAYER TIME!!! For colors I always use raster layers. This one under your lineart layer
Nows you color just basic colors. Don't get ahead of yerself, tiger. You don't need to be precise, you can always go back after and use the "eraser" tool. ERASER TOOLS ARE YOUR FRIEND. Don't be afraid to use it, even if you have a big ego like me. No one will know in the end if you did or didn't. Actually, I would highly suggest coloring outside the lines and then erasing the excess. If you do, don't be like me, set the brush hardness to 100%. TRUST ME. It'll save you alot of hell later. *forgot to do that, AGAIN. *
Clean up the colors, make sure the area is fully filled, etc. (Or pay/force someone else to do it. *shifty eyes* Not like I do that...)
-Wow, that took alot longer than expected. (I'm docking that from your pay. I have an obscure bed time you know!) Ahem, none of you heard that *shifty eyes*
Now I usually duplicate the layer, just incase I do something crazy and irreversable (right click in the blank space in the layer box and click "duplicate layer")
-->Highlights and Shadows
NOTE: All work will be done on the duplicate layer until I say otherwise.
Shading first. Highlights after. Just because thats how I want it to be. Select the "burn" tool. Make it big, and throw shading in wherever you think they should be. If it seems too dark or light mess with the opacity. Also, for the sake of sanity, click the little box what says "continuous" under the "stroke" thing. If not, every time you overlap any burned part, it will make it darker. Then if you want to make it doubly dark, you can click the "new stroke" button up near there. This workes exactly the same as with highlights, 'cept with highlights you use the "dodge" tool.
Ok, so now you're probably saying, "This looks ok, but some of the highlights look forced. Oh, what, oh, what should I do? Please help me Namu-san!" ... and now you're probably saying "Why the hell am I reading this? This person is INSANE!!!" This is the portion of the tutorial where we move on to the... crap. I forget. Umm... Please hold, we are experiencing some technical difficulties... Ok. Found it. Use the smudge brush and (this is tricky, not only to get right, but to explain) pull the highlights and shadows kind of near eachother and fool with it untill you get a marble-ish kinda look (Sorry, I'm running out of words. Need to order more). I use little circly motions on the edges.

Here I use the soften tool on the edges cause it looks a tad strange elsewise.

Gotta clean up the colors again... Make 'em in the lines. *passes some money under the table*
COLORIN DONE
I leave the background and anything else up to your imagination! Thanks for reading! You can go try to regain lost brain cells now ]]>
For cause she needs it. No, no, I'm kidding, I'm kidding... or am I? *shifty eyes*
I forewarn you all, previous to making this tutorial I had an energy bar and am currently eating ice cream, I am very, very hyper. There may also be mild foul language, (ex: da**, sh**, etc) so if you can't take that go away or ignore it.

This is just a very basic tutorial on coloring with layers. Note that I am not that good with shading and stuff; this is supposed to help with getting clean lines around clean color -though I'll show my horrible shading tactics too. I'll try my best to dumb this down enough to make you all comfortable (sorry Tim, can't help). XP

Sorry, but for the first few steps there aren't many visuals, don't kill me! (I did the lineart before I realized I could use this as a subject for my tutorial )

Step one: LINEART
Kay, so you scanned your image and opened it in PSP 8. It should already be some funky layer type called "background". (Oh, did I mention you should already have your layer box-thing open? If it isn't, go to View- Palletes- Layers or hit F8) Now we leave that layer alone, we'll be deleting it eventually.

Now open up a new layer, either raster or vector. I don't know what the hell mask layers are so we'll skip over those, shall we? Name your layer "line art" because I will be referring to this later and if you don't you will be confused and I'll rally a large group of unitarian monks to laugh at you. A large, LARGE group. (mind you, I have no idea what a unitarian is, and I am not saying this in any offensive way, it was just the first thing I thought of that had "-arian" at the end so it had to be said. So no flaming!)
MAKE SURE YOUR NEW LAYER IS ON TOP OF YOUR OTHER ONE!! (first on the list)
-- RASTER LAYERS These layers are for drawing on right away; I did my older linework on these.
HOW TO USE RASTERS: I usually just trace over the original lines with the paint brush. Plain and simple.
--VECTOR LAYERS Now these are alot more time consuming, but if you make a big mistake, you don't have to "ctrl+z" it, which is good if you made the mistake a long time ago and for some reason can't use the eraser. But this brings about the bad parts: you can make the thing look too stiff and not-round if you're not good at it or lazy and that you have to make a new sub-layer thingie if you want to change the line thickness for different parts of the picture. Despite these drawbacks, I perfer this one.
HOW TO USE VECTORS: Make sure you go to the bathroom, get a snack, and make sure you have some good music now, because this may take a while. (Ice cream, check. Music, check. Bathroom... *afk* *ruches back, paniked* Crap, the toilet's broken again... I tells you all its NOT MY FAULT!!! Gah! We have some... plumbing problems. Always have.... GAH! Off topic!!! Focus Namu... where were we? Oh! Right! Vectoring!) This be where the "Pen" tool comes in handy. From what I know this is the only time the pen tool comes in handy... anyways. Here I tend to zoom in to at least 200% (depending on the size and detail of the picture of course). Then, with the pen tool people, click any one spot on a line where you want to start. Then click another spot on that line. Hey! A line formed between the dots! Looka that! In the words of "Its like connecting the dots, but you have to make the dots". Keep with that until you have outlined your whole thing.
Now, after you've tried this a little, you may be saying to me, "Hey! Namu! What the hell!? Not ALL of my lines are connected to eachother! I'ma smack-a yo' face!" Before there is a major smack-a my face, THERE IS AN ANSWER!!! *angelic music + light from above* Click ANY DOT that isn't the first or last dot in a series and then click somewhere else. New line! You may now apologize for thinking about smack-a my face by joining my evil leigons of the undead... *waits a bit, looks around* No? Damn...
Tips:
If you want to see your progress, click the "flood fill" aka "paintbucket" tool. It will sho' yo' lines foo'! Click the pen to go back to your click-a-thon 'o tediousness.
The more numerous your dots, the rounder you can make something seem. Unfortunatly, that also leaves a greater percentage for error, but because there is a greater percentage, mistakes will be less noticable.
Feel free to use multiple layers, even combinations of raster and vector.
With vector layers, up top it says "line thickness" and a number. Take a wild guess what that will do if ya mess around with it!
STEP ONE COMPLETE.
Take a break...
Step 2: COLORS
(If you are satisfied with any vector layers you have done, make sure to right click them and "promote to raster layer". This will get rid of your dots permanently [as far as I can figure])
And nooooow.... COLORIN TIME!!! Lets all sing and dance and be merry because it's-a colorin time!!!! (woo, the sugar's really kickin' in folks. Its gunna be a LOOOOOOOONG night!)
Again, NEW LAYER TIME!!! For colors I always use raster layers. This one under your lineart layer
Nows you color just basic colors. Don't get ahead of yerself, tiger. You don't need to be precise, you can always go back after and use the "eraser" tool. ERASER TOOLS ARE YOUR FRIEND. Don't be afraid to use it, even if you have a big ego like me. No one will know in the end if you did or didn't. Actually, I would highly suggest coloring outside the lines and then erasing the excess. If you do, don't be like me, set the brush hardness to 100%. TRUST ME. It'll save you alot of hell later. *forgot to do that, AGAIN. *
Clean up the colors, make sure the area is fully filled, etc. (Or pay/force someone else to do it. *shifty eyes* Not like I do that...)
-Wow, that took alot longer than expected. (I'm docking that from your pay. I have an obscure bed time you know!) Ahem, none of you heard that *shifty eyes*
Now I usually duplicate the layer, just incase I do something crazy and irreversable (right click in the blank space in the layer box and click "duplicate layer")
-->Highlights and Shadows
NOTE: All work will be done on the duplicate layer until I say otherwise.
Shading first. Highlights after. Just because thats how I want it to be. Select the "burn" tool. Make it big, and throw shading in wherever you think they should be. If it seems too dark or light mess with the opacity. Also, for the sake of sanity, click the little box what says "continuous" under the "stroke" thing. If not, every time you overlap any burned part, it will make it darker. Then if you want to make it doubly dark, you can click the "new stroke" button up near there. This workes exactly the same as with highlights, 'cept with highlights you use the "dodge" tool.
Ok, so now you're probably saying, "This looks ok, but some of the highlights look forced. Oh, what, oh, what should I do? Please help me Namu-san!" ... and now you're probably saying "Why the hell am I reading this? This person is INSANE!!!" This is the portion of the tutorial where we move on to the... crap. I forget. Umm... Please hold, we are experiencing some technical difficulties... Ok. Found it. Use the smudge brush and (this is tricky, not only to get right, but to explain) pull the highlights and shadows kind of near eachother and fool with it untill you get a marble-ish kinda look (Sorry, I'm running out of words. Need to order more). I use little circly motions on the edges.

Here I use the soften tool on the edges cause it looks a tad strange elsewise.

Gotta clean up the colors again... Make 'em in the lines. *passes some money under the table*
COLORIN DONE
I leave the background and anything else up to your imagination! Thanks for reading! You can go try to regain lost brain cells now

]]> http://trish2.deviantart.com/art/Repeating-Tiles-Tutorial-1-58664504 http://trish2.deviantart.com/art/Repeating-Tiles-Tutorial-1-58664504 Thu, 28 Jun 2007 22:38:48 PDT Repeating Tiles Tutorial 1 nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Trish2 http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/t/r/trish2.gif Copyright 2007-2013 ~Trish2
I've been putting this together as I've been building the Achive website. Hope you all don't mind. ]]>
I've been putting this together as I've been building the Achive website. Hope you all don't mind.

]]> http://kaesunri.deviantart.com/art/Video-Rebellion-Full-Signature-23150856 http://kaesunri.deviantart.com/art/Video-Rebellion-Full-Signature-23150856 Tue, 20 Sep 2005 15:53:58 PDT Video Rebellion Full Signature nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Kaesunri http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/k/a/kaesunri.png Copyright 2005-2013 ~Kaesunri Enjoy. Oh yeah I have provided the brushes I used courtesy of my friend sneaky. Click [URL=[link] For the brushes. ]]> Enjoy. Oh yeah I have provided the brushes I used courtesy of my friend sneaky. Click [URL=[link] For the brushes.

]]> http://vivifyus.deviantart.com/art/liquidfied-background-tutorial-98737963 http://vivifyus.deviantart.com/art/liquidfied-background-tutorial-98737963 Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:47:38 PDT liquidfied background tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop vivifyus http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/default.gif Copyright 2008-2013 ~vivifyus

]]> http://tadness.deviantart.com/art/GIMP-Abstract-Wallpaper-Tile-Tutorial-360745096 http://tadness.deviantart.com/art/GIMP-Abstract-Wallpaper-Tile-Tutorial-360745096 Thu, 21 Mar 2013 11:20:46 PDT GIMP Abstract Wallpaper/Tile Tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/thegimp Tadness http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/t/a/tadness.gif?6 Copyright 2013 ~Tadness http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/
Made in GIMP. ]]>
Made in GIMP.

]]> http://coreorange.deviantart.com/art/Linear-Colors-22143803 http://coreorange.deviantart.com/art/Linear-Colors-22143803 Wed, 24 Aug 2005 20:46:40 PDT Linear Colors nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop coreorange http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/c/o/coreorange.gif Copyright 2005-2013 ~coreorange
Basically all you're doing is using a blur method.

1. See the background layer? Select it. Hit Ctrl-J twice.
2. Select the top layer.
3. Go into filters...use Gaussian Blur. Use something low. I wouldn't say anything over 5.0 I typically use 2.0 or 1.5 because that's JUST enough to make the 'crap' go away
4. Select the bottom layer
5. Hit Shift-ctrl-U
6. Select the top layer and change the blending options to something like.. "overlay" or "color"

Simple. You CAN select the top layer and hit ctrl-e to merge them, but I would do a ctrl-A and then shift-ctrl-I to select inverse..then delete the extra crap running off the edge on the blurred layer (before you merge) in case you're going to be using more than the image you've just fixed.

Hope this helps, I found this out when I got tired of playing with RBG and CMYK colors to try to get rid of those really annoying colors that SHOULD not be there. ]]>
Basically all you're doing is using a blur method.

1. See the background layer? Select it. Hit Ctrl-J twice.
2. Select the top layer.
3. Go into filters...use Gaussian Blur. Use something low. I wouldn't say anything over 5.0 I typically use 2.0 or 1.5 because that's JUST enough to make the 'crap' go away
4. Select the bottom layer
5. Hit Shift-ctrl-U
6. Select the top layer and change the blending options to something like.. "overlay" or "color"

Simple. You CAN select the top layer and hit ctrl-e to merge them, but I would do a ctrl-A and then shift-ctrl-I to select inverse..then delete the extra crap running off the edge on the blurred layer (before you merge) in case you're going to be using more than the image you've just fixed.

Hope this helps, I found this out when I got tired of playing with RBG and CMYK colors to try to get rid of those really annoying colors that SHOULD not be there.

]]> http://fixmypic.deviantart.com/art/LadyBug-Directions-3rd-place-40747825 http://fixmypic.deviantart.com/art/LadyBug-Directions-3rd-place-40747825 Mon, 02 Oct 2006 09:12:21 PDT LadyBug Directions 3rd place nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop FixMyPic http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/f/i/fixmypic.gif Copyright 2006-2013 ~FixMyPic PLEASE do NOT fav here. Please go to the original to fav and comment --> [link]

This work earned 3rd for Best Directions

~e-moonstone 's Original Description

here's what i did:
- first i duplicated the Original layer and called the new one Step1. i prefer to leave the original intact for reference. just in case i forget what i am supposed to be doing and start adding teddy bears all over the pic

- i thought that the top part of the leaf was washed out and the bottom area was too dim. i wanted to balance it a little and bring out some details, so i went to Image>Adjustments>Shadows and Highlights. I just played around with the sliders until i got something that looked ok.

- i liked the color of the leaf but i wanted to enhance it a bit and also soften it so that i get more focus on the ladybird, so I duplicated the Step1 layer, call it Step2 and applied a gaussian blur filter (Filters>Blur>gaussian Blur) Radius=4 seemed to work for this photo.
I then set the layer's blending mode to overlay, and decreased it's opacity to about 80%..

- next i wanted to bring out the red in the ladybird without affecting the rest of the photo so i duplicated Step1, call it Step3, moved it to the top of the stack and masked out all but the ladybird. I applied a hue and saturation adjustment layer on that one (Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Hue and Saturation). I made sure to select "Use Previous Layer to Create Clipping Mask" so that the changes affect only the last layer. there are more simple ways for selection.. i just feel comfortable with this way. I adjusted the reds channel only. just select it from the drop-down menu. i hope i didn't make it too bright. i wanted to keep it natural.

- now it's time for the cropping. i didn't like that the ladybird was right in the center of the photo, but i thought the area behind it was a lot more interesting than in front, so i really wasn't sure how to crop it, i ended up with this crop. it's still centered more or less, but i got rid of the extra area on the bottom where the leaf was too distracting and not very beautiful.

- i then added the border. i first added a background layer to the bottom of the layer stack, increased the canvas size by about 20 pixels in width and height, and filled the background layer black. and for the inner border, i made a new layer on top of the stack, same size as the photo, filled it with a solid color and set it's fill value to 0%, I then applied a stroke layer style and set it's position to inside, width=2 and blend mode to overlay.

and that's it ]]> PLEASE do NOT fav here. Please go to the original to fav and comment --> [link]

This work earned 3rd for Best Directions

~e-moonstone 's Original Description

here's what i did:
- first i duplicated the Original layer and called the new one Step1. i prefer to leave the original intact for reference. just in case i forget what i am supposed to be doing and start adding teddy bears all over the pic

- i thought that the top part of the leaf was washed out and the bottom area was too dim. i wanted to balance it a little and bring out some details, so i went to Image>Adjustments>Shadows and Highlights. I just played around with the sliders until i got something that looked ok.

- i liked the color of the leaf but i wanted to enhance it a bit and also soften it so that i get more focus on the ladybird, so I duplicated the Step1 layer, call it Step2 and applied a gaussian blur filter (Filters>Blur>gaussian Blur) Radius=4 seemed to work for this photo.
I then set the layer's blending mode to overlay, and decreased it's opacity to about 80%..

- next i wanted to bring out the red in the ladybird without affecting the rest of the photo so i duplicated Step1, call it Step3, moved it to the top of the stack and masked out all but the ladybird. I applied a hue and saturation adjustment layer on that one (Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Hue and Saturation). I made sure to select "Use Previous Layer to Create Clipping Mask" so that the changes affect only the last layer. there are more simple ways for selection.. i just feel comfortable with this way. I adjusted the reds channel only. just select it from the drop-down menu. i hope i didn't make it too bright. i wanted to keep it natural.

- now it's time for the cropping. i didn't like that the ladybird was right in the center of the photo, but i thought the area behind it was a lot more interesting than in front, so i really wasn't sure how to crop it, i ended up with this crop. it's still centered more or less, but i got rid of the extra area on the bottom where the leaf was too distracting and not very beautiful.

- i then added the border. i first added a background layer to the bottom of the layer stack, increased the canvas size by about 20 pixels in width and height, and filled the background layer black. and for the inner border, i made a new layer on top of the stack, same size as the photo, filled it with a solid color and set it's fill value to 0%, I then applied a stroke layer style and set it's position to inside, width=2 and blend mode to overlay.

and that's it

]]> http://jcorbin.deviantart.com/art/Simple-Bubble-Tutorial-135880827 http://jcorbin.deviantart.com/art/Simple-Bubble-Tutorial-135880827 Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:53:56 PDT Simple Bubble Tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop JCorbin http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/j/c/jcorbin.gif Copyright 2009-2013 ~JCorbin

]]> http://pokehkins.deviantart.com/art/Square-BG-Tutorial-38580942 http://pokehkins.deviantart.com/art/Square-BG-Tutorial-38580942 Thu, 24 Aug 2006 04:05:22 PDT Square BG Tutorial nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop Pokehkins http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/p/o/pokehkins.jpg?2 Copyright 2006-2013 ~Pokehkins this deviation.

Works in PS7+, but I can see it working in lower versions. ]]> this deviation.

Works in PS7+, but I can see it working in lower versions.

]]> http://banachana.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-Lesson-2-278442943 http://banachana.deviantart.com/art/Photoshop-Lesson-2-278442943 Sun, 08 Jan 2012 19:18:22 PST Photoshop Lesson 2 nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop banachana http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/b/a/banachana.gif?6 Copyright 2012-2013 ~banachana

Livestream videos:
(DON'T FORGET TO SAVE AS YOU WORK!)

1. Gradient-styled background using modes with layers, duplicating layers (9:37): [link]

2. AGH! One Lesson did not save on livestream!!! I do not have time to re-do it so here is a quick instruction for part 2 of the tutorial:
Pick a color for your fish and use the BRUSH tool with 100% hardness and draw a fish shape. (Simple right? What your missing out is my explanation of hardness vs. softness.)

3. Locking layers, modes with brush tool, opacity (14:01): [link]

4. Duplicating layers, merging layers, brush spacing, transform tool (9:27): [link]

5. Finishing touches (5:39) [link]


Assignment requirements
1. Background from dark to light.
2. A drawing or object that has been duplicated multiple times.
3. A brush used with the scatter and spacing adjusted.
4. Overlap in the elements of the picture. Example: Seaweed under and over fish.
5. Shading and highlights added to the main element of the painting.
6. Upload it to the group as a .jpg file no later than Friday 12 pm EST. If you need an extension, ask me about it first.
7. Be creative and make it look worthy of being on your dA gallery! ]]>

Livestream videos:
(DON'T FORGET TO SAVE AS YOU WORK!)

1. Gradient-styled background using modes with layers, duplicating layers (9:37): [link]

2. AGH! One Lesson did not save on livestream!!! I do not have time to re-do it so here is a quick instruction for part 2 of the tutorial:
Pick a color for your fish and use the BRUSH tool with 100% hardness and draw a fish shape. (Simple right? What your missing out is my explanation of hardness vs. softness.)

3. Locking layers, modes with brush tool, opacity (14:01): [link]

4. Duplicating layers, merging layers, brush spacing, transform tool (9:27): [link]

5. Finishing touches (5:39) [link]


Assignment requirements
1. Background from dark to light.
2. A drawing or object that has been duplicated multiple times.
3. A brush used with the scatter and spacing adjusted.
4. Overlap in the elements of the picture. Example: Seaweed under and over fish.
5. Shading and highlights added to the main element of the painting.
6. Upload it to the group as a .jpg file no later than Friday 12 pm EST. If you need an extension, ask me about it first.
7. Be creative and make it look worthy of being on your dA gallery!

]]> http://12monthsofwinter.deviantart.com/art/Bigger-Backgrounds-44391481 http://12monthsofwinter.deviantart.com/art/Bigger-Backgrounds-44391481 Fri, 08 Dec 2006 10:59:44 PST Bigger-Backgrounds nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop 12monthsOFwinter http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/1/2/12monthsofwinter.gif?4 Copyright 2006-2013 ~12monthsOFwinter
I used Corel Photopaint, made the tutorial in Corel Draw but just about any decent rastor or vector based software can do these simple functions to create bigger backgrounds.

You probably can use MS Paint although you have to be more careful since you only get one chance to position things correctly after pasting and you will need to have 2 instances of it open.

Hope you find it useful. ]]>
I used Corel Photopaint, made the tutorial in Corel Draw but just about any decent rastor or vector based software can do these simple functions to create bigger backgrounds.

You probably can use MS Paint although you have to be more careful since you only get one chance to position things correctly after pasting and you will need to have 2 instances of it open.

Hope you find it useful.

]]> http://darranthegreat.deviantart.com/art/Colorize-Your-Background-26108545 http://darranthegreat.deviantart.com/art/Colorize-Your-Background-26108545 Tue, 06 Dec 2005 21:00:04 PST Colorize Your Background nonadult resources/tutorials/appreference/photoshop darranthegreat http://a.deviantart.net/avatars/d/a/darranthegreat.gif Copyright 2005-2013 ~darranthegreat Hope it helps.

(: ]]> Hope it helps.

(:

]]>