deviantART: Popular Wire Artisan Crafts

Wire wrapping free tutorial

Mon, 05 Jan 2009 07:34:16 PST

Mój pierwszy - i chyba ostatni tutorial.
Długo czekaliście na niego. Przepraszam, ale mam nadzieję że się Wam przyda i będzie pomocny w opanowaniu techniki wire wrapping.

Uprzejmie proszę, jeśli ktoś wykona kolczyki z tego tutoriala, byłoby milo, gdyby napisał że go użył i dał do niego link. Tutorial jest zupełnie za darmo ( a pracy przy nim było sporo) więc myślę,że taka prośba to nie jest sporo.

My first tutorial - and probably - last
I know, that you waiting fot this long time - but i hope that will be useful

And - if you use this tutorial, please wrait about this and take a link to this site. That will be nice - I think that is not a big price for this tutorial.

Have nice fun

Photography - Jakub Frąckowiak
Made by - me

And earings [link]

The Jeweller's Guide to Twisting Wire

Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:55:54 PST

Edit #2: You can use your twisted wire to wire wrap stones! Learn how in the second tutorial here: [link].

Edit: Wow- a totally unexpected DD! Thank you very much Piratelotus-Stock for featuring. I hope this is helpful, and I also hope I get around to fixing some of those typos....

Phew... It's finally done! It took a great deal longer than I expected. Warning: this is 5MB download.

If you use or re-post this tutorial anywhere, please credit me (srtoltonart) and link back to this page. I'd also love to see anything that you guys make with this! I teach locally once in a while and its amazing to see what people come up with when handed the same material.

Have fun!

________________
Check out wire wrapped jewellery of all types! Visit my site: [link]

Intro to Fine Wire Wrapping

Tue, 25 May 2010 15:44:20 PDT

Here is my first wire wrapping tutorial!

This tutorial is meant to give people a first step towards advanced wire wrapping, which is why I call it a 'beginner advanced tutuoral'.

I certainly didn't get results like this my first try, so don't get discouraged if wires aren't lining up for you, or are bending in a different direction than you hoped! Sometimes you have to follow the wires, even if you end up with a different design than you had in mind.

If you do make something with this tutorial, please leave a link in the comments - I would love to see what you come up with!

Here is a finished photo of the piece I made in this tutorial: [link]
--------------------

Looking for a store that sells square and half-round wire? Here's where I shop:

Gold filled, Argentium and sterling silver, and silver filled
Antiqued brass and coated coppers
Brass and copper

--------------------
If you like wearing this style of jewelry but you don't like making it personally, I do sell my jewelry at my etsy store, and I take commisions

Wrap on!

Wire-wrapping tutorial

Mon, 07 Dec 2009 06:10:49 PST

This is my gift for you for my 30th birthday

Feel free to use it, but plz, give credit and send me a link (i'm very curious)!
If you have any questions, plz, ask in a comment so as all the others would learn from it

Have a wonderful day!

my etsy shop: [link]

How to Wire Ears

Mon, 03 Aug 2009 18:14:12 PDT

Mini tutorial time.

Green is wire, red is stitching, and tan is masking tape.

Have large ears/horns/other things sticking up out of your hat that are just sadly flopping over? Try adding some wire!

I use gauge 20 steel wire for most everything. It's thick enough to hold your stuff up, yet thin enough you can bend it with your fingers.

You'll usually want to add your wire after you've finished sewing your hat. Simply measure out enough wire to go inside both ears plus about 20 inches extra.

Find the middle of your wire piece and place it on your center seam. Then make two bends where the inside of the ear starts.

Then take and end and push it in between the stitches into the ear. Then push it back out on the outer edge of the ear. Do the same for the other side.

While holding the inner bend in place, push the long wire end into the ear until it loops up and fills the whole inside. Then bend the long end towards the back of the hat. Do the same for the other ear and then pinch the wire into shape as needed.

Form a small loop in the back with the two ends and twist them together in the middle. Cut of the excess and make tiny loops on the ends so they won't be sharp.

With a needle and thread, stitch through the inside seams, wrap around the wire and tie off at bends to hold the wire in place.

If you like (especially useful if you have long hair) Carefully cover the wire twist with masking tape.

And there you go, now you can add those inches to your height!

(c) ~clearkid
For the glory of God!

Tutorial: the Golden Fleece wire earrings

Wed, 18 Apr 2012 04:15:36 PDT

In this tutorial presented the foundation for various kinds of jewelry, for example similar earrings here: [link]
Please give me link on your work!

Simple Wire Wrap Tree Tutorial

Wed, 12 Oct 2011 20:57:10 PDT

Alright, sorry it's been so long. Trying to explain/knowing what needed explanation and what was obvious just didn't seem to be working. I'm stull developing the class a little each time I teach it. Please credit and link back to me if you use it.

Again, suggestions for clarification would be good

Have fun and let me know what you make!
First taker to let me know: [link]
[link]
[link]
[link]

I've got a handful of variations on this style in my charity wraps folder [link] as well as in my etsy shop [link]

Wire Pony Tutorial

Sat, 18 Aug 2012 19:40:22 PDT

Here it is, my Wire Pony Tutorial. This is the first tutorial I have made... ever. Please let me know of any mistakes or anything that will help me improve.

I know it does not cover stuff like wings. I will create more detailed tutorials for specific parts later on.

Hope everyone likes it.

Wire Ring Tutorial

Tue, 21 Dec 2010 10:27:37 PST

An easy tutorial on how to make a simple beaded (wire) ring.
++++Tools++++
Wooden Dowel (Ring Dowel)
Round Nose Pliers
Flesh Cutters
Flat Nose Pliers
Beads
20 Gauge Wire
28 Gauge Wire
++++Steps++++
1. Wrap the 20 Gauge wire 3 times around the dowel. This makes the ring shape.
2. Make two P-Loops at the ends of the wire, and turn them outward.
3. Wrap the 28 Gauge wire around one side of the ring and make your way up to the loop, try not to leave spaces and wrap tightly.
4. String through the P-Loop.
5. String your choice of beads through the wire.

To Be continued...
Part 2 >>> [link]

The Jeweller's Guide to Baisic Wire Wrapping

Sat, 20 Oct 2012 18:41:30 PDT

A continuation of the "Jeweller's Guide" series- this time for basic wire wrapping. If you use or re-post this tutorial anywhere, please credit me (srtoltonart) and link back to this page. I'd also love to see anything that you guys make with this! I teach locally once in a while and its amazing to see what people come up with when handed the same material.

________________________________________________

All you ever wanted to know about twisting wire: [link]

________________________________________________

I do take commissions- if you are interested, send me a note!

Basic Wire Weaving Tutorial

Mon, 02 Feb 2009 14:14:14 PST

This tutorial teaches a few basic weaving techniques. These techniques are very important to know when you first start weaving with wire. Most weaving projects you encounter will incorporate some form of at least one of these techniques.

For this tutorial, I am using 16g wire for the frame wires and 26g wire for the weaving wire. Im using these gauges to better show the detail in these weaves. That is why this tutorial calls for those two gauges of wire. If you would prefer, you can use different gauges for your practice work. Just keep in mind that the weaving wire gage should be 8-10 numbers higher than the gage of the frame wire.

Materials:
16g round practice wire (dead soft or half hard)
26g round practice wire (dead soft)

Tools:
Wire Cutters
Flat Nose Pliers

You can find more of my tutorials in my Tutorial Shop on Etsy: [link]

Idrith Wire Wrapped Pendant Progress

Sun, 20 Jan 2013 06:44:29 PST

Progress pictures of Idrith -

It was pretty much the first time I tried doing something in this style so a lot of it was just me messing around. And I did plenty of things that were really far more frustrating than they have to be, so until I figure out a better way of doing stuff, I cant give a more detailed step-by-step. And if there are any suggestions/questions please comment

STEAMPUNK EAR CUFF TUTORIAL

Wed, 28 Mar 2012 09:10:40 PDT

SURPRISE!!

DOWNLOAD FOR FULL VIEW!

I think i need to explain why i made an ear cuff tutorial at last (i know, many of you asked me to make it, and i always said no..)

I've spent the last 2 months thinking about where am i and what i want as an artist..

I had to realize that i don't make new things any more.. to be honest, i think copying (yourself or other artists) is the most awful thing you can do.. it kills art!

So i've decided that i'll renew myself and my art, and make this tutorial for you not only to thank you for your support, but because now i'm really forced to make something new

You'll find some of these ear cuffs in my etsy shop though (if you want to support me or if you don't want to try the tut), but i'll make much more OOAK pieces in the future

my etsy shop: [link]

If you need help about oxidizing your jewelry, plz, check this:

I made this tut for those who already know the basic wire wrapping techniques.. if you're a beginner, learn those first (you can find a lot of great tutorials on the web )

Sculpture tutorial for Starters - Part 1

Thu, 08 Mar 2012 14:45:29 PST

Part 2: Coming soon. (Sometime next week!)

There we go, like I promised. This took quite a while.
hope it helps. Any questions? Feel free to ask!

More Tutorials by other artists:

General: [link] and [link]
Basic Body: [link]
Body details: [link]
Textures: [link]
Heads: [link] and [link]
Wings: [link]
Fur: [link] [link] [link] and [link]
Toolmaking: [link]
Finishing Touch: [link]
Tips and Tricks: [link]
Armature and Stand: [link]
Base: [link]

WARNING FOR SANDING: Don't breathe in the dust!
Either moisten the sandpaper or wear protection gear.
A bandana properly covering your nose and mouth should do.
The dust can be dangerous for your lungs.

Tutorial earrings in art nouveau style

Sat, 12 May 2012 22:20:07 PDT

New tutorial from me.
The level of difficulty: 3/5 (you should know how do spirals)
Time: 4-6 hours (depends on whether you decide to do patterning)

other tutorial:[link]

Wire Ring Tutorial Pt 2

Tue, 21 Dec 2010 10:56:14 PST

Part 2 of my Ring Tutorial. Enjoy!

++++Steps++++
6. String the 28 Gauge through the other P-Loop with the beads attached.
7. Start wrapping again, try to equal the amounts so the ring looks more professional.
8. The Ring should look like this when completed. Cut the extra wire and flatten the ends so they do not poke you when you put it on.
++++++++

Cosplay wing tutorial

Wed, 30 May 2007 22:38:56 PDT

**Photo is large**

Why? Because I need proof that I'm not twindling my thumbs in cosplay! XD So I thought to upload it in a "tutorial" type photo.
Sorry for the aweful quality of the bottom photos, they got resized and went "Blah, Etaru's messing with us again....let's tick her off!!" And so they did... ⌐__⌐
In these photos, only one wing was done (but refer to other photos in my gallery to see the full set^^)

The steps:
1.) Bend copper wire (preferably thicker wire, or hangers if you have none) into the desired shape (think bird-in-the-distance: -v-)

2.) Bend a box-like base at the bottom, where they'll rest against your back when the wings are bent to extend away from your body.

3.) Cut chicken wire (or fence wire, whatever you feel is more structurally sturdy, but light) into either a rectangle or triangle shape. This will be "body" of the wings.

4.) Attach chicken wire to the wire base~~ Keep in mind, make the base at least 3-5 inches smaller than what you want the wings to be, because the length of the feathers should extend beyond it.

5.) Glue (white) batting onto the chicken wire, covering all wire. DO NOT USE FELT. I've seen it done and it's not as attractive when light is passed through the wings, batting helps diffuse the light so there's not a stark contrast between your feathers and the wire. Make as few folds/creases as possible, this will make laying the feathers that much simpler.

6.) Get a feel for how you want the feather to look (aka look into birds' wings, or how the character's wings are drawn) before laying feathers. Lay the feathers out to get an idea of they should look like.

7.) TRIM THE FEATHERS unless the artwork was fraying feathers. Compare picture #1 with #5. See the difference? YOU WILL TRIM. I KNOW you will trim.

8.) Start gluing feathers onto batting, starting at the bottom and working your way up in layers, NOT DOWN.

~~~~~~ 8.5) You can't buy feathers as long as in #4 and #5, probably because there's no birds out there with feathers 3 feet long. Combine several for the longer feathers, cutting off the "stems" where there's the fluff for each except the bottom one. For the one in #5, there's about 4 or 5 combined together. The longer the feathers, the larger your wings will appear to be.

9.) Be sure to cover both sides of each wing with feathers! Photo #6 is the back of the wing, see how it looks identical to the front? So lay feathers in the same direction/pattern.

10.) When you peel the feather layers apart on the bottom and side, you'll be able to see the batting, so "plug" it up with leftover downs, or buy some smaller feathers specifically for that.

11.) Each feather on top the other will cover the stems, but not on the very top. Cover them with the fluffy small feathers called "downs" (not shown).

12.) When both wings are done, cover the center base with more batting and perhaps fluffy downs, so you don't give it away that you're not REALLY an angel ^_~

The feathers are one pound of white turkey hen rounds bought from RainbowFeather Co. [link] who'll treat you real nice. The smaller fluff feathers were purchased from JoAnn's, but I recommend getting 1/2 lb. of downs just so you won't run out for a project. (Half a pound has lasted me over 2 years and through more than 4 pairs of wings lol).

KEEP IN MIND: There are many other ways that work just as well - if not better - so explore the options before starting, and have fun!
Refer here for final result: [link]
In the Alexiel wings [link] , the wire base was substituted with 1/2" PVC pipe, which calls for a different type of harness.

Tutorial wire wrap - Tree pendant - Part 1

Fri, 14 Jun 2013 07:17:27 PDT

Very short tutorial on how to make a pendant tree of copper wire. Part 2 - here [link]
I've been doing this technique for more than two years, and I try to share with my friends with new discoveries.
My shop on Etsy [link]
To understand some of the technical processes, you can see the video on my channel YouTube:
[link]

HUGE strawberry charm tutorial

Fri, 08 Jun 2007 12:51:55 PDT

Yup. Theres a LOT of writing coz there were so many things I wanted to explain :B Im really not gonna answer any questions about materials that are pictured in the tutorial. I mean..come on theyre right there lol I hope you guys enjoy it and find it somewhat useful , a lot of the stuff is the same but..yah :3

Oh and check out my other, more basic tutorials
[link]
octo and

[link]

panda

*Edits----------
1.)Ok someone told me I messed up the links to my other tutorials so it should go to the panda one now

2.) I apologize for the " damp paper tower" I meant towel lol XD

3.) You get all this stuff at Michaels or Joanns...Joanns sells Sculpey, glaze and paints a LOT cheaper but they dont have the best selection for other things :/

And I use steel galvanized wire..22 gauge

*EDIT--Omg the people at the Craftzine Magazine ([link]) are so nice, they featured this tutorial too but I cant thank them coz everytime I try to email them it gets sent back to me!
I wish I knew what the problem was but just in case anyone from Craftzine is reading this thank you!!!

Tutorial - Polymer clay roses

Sat, 17 May 2008 04:22:15 PDT

I find these really easy to do, and hope this will be pretty clear. If it's not, let me know. It's my first real tutorial. This should work for any polymer clay; work the clay first until it's soft and pliable, then follow the instructions below.

1) Choose your colors. This is a sample set requested of me.

2) For mini roses (what I'm showing), you don't need a lot of clay. The American dime is pretty small; you really don't need much clay to do this. The center will be one ball, the next ring needs two (or three, if you want it a bit thicker), the third ring requires 3 or 4, depending on what you want. I've done it as 1-2-3, and rolled up the amount I'll need as shown here, with only one of the darkest pink for the center and 3 for the outer ring.

3) Flatten in an oblong shape your center ball of clay. The edge that will be the upper edge of the bloom should be flattened/stretched a bit more than the base. Make no real effort for this flattened/stretched area to be perfectly even; having it somewhat odd-edged will enhance the final bloom. Brush finger gently over the clay that will be rolled in the center until fingerprints are removed, or you will have to live with them being there.

4) Start on one short end and roll along the wide length until you have the core of the bloom rolled snugly. If you want it smaller/narrower, now is the time to roll it a bit extra between your fingers (not too hard) to thin it out.

5) Brush the tip of your finger from the center out very, very lightly along the thin lip of clay; this causes it to curl outward slightly, the way the petals should.

6) Repeat step 3; when you've removed your fingerprints from the inner edge, carefully add this side to your core piece. Make sure that the end of the center piece is either centered or not to either end of this piece.

7) Roll it between your fingers a bit so that the clay is snugly attached. Repeat step five.

8) Add the second piece of mid-color clay; I advise an eyeball centering of this one, so that the seam of the first mid-color clay is in about the center of this one. If you're doing three petals in this second step, DON'T center it, but place them more in thirds.

9) Roll it between your fingers a bit so that the clay is snugly attached.

10) Repeat step five.

11-14) Start the final ring. This goes the same as for all of the second ring of petals; space them as you see fit, but try really, really hard not to stack the seams on each row so that they line up, or your bloom will look very odd.

15) Step 5 again; this time make sure to go over all of your petal lips one final time to remove any fingerprints on them with very gentle strokes.

16) Side view; not so pretty, is it?

17) I've rolled it between my fingers (perhaps a bit much) to thin it down a bit. Now it's way too long.

18) Trim off the extra. The tail that's not being used can be saved, blended and (especially if you're doing a lot of the same blend) can be recycled for future use. I find that it usually ends up matching (or close to it) the mid-tone.

19) I use a twist of wire to spear it and bake it on. The clay used for this demo is Sculpey III; I bake it for about 3 minutes. DO NOT OVER BAKE. These burn really quickly. When cooled, I painted over it with Liquid Sculpey and baked it again for a few minutes. Liquid Sculpey appears to keep it from burning, so the length of time is a bit more flexible. I still only bake it for a few minutes, but it's more forgiving at this step. Brush on a very light coating, careful of leaving it pooled in cracks. It does NOT look attractive if you glop it on and let it fill the cracks, trust me...

If you wish to add leaves, they can still be added after this point, or if you want to add anything else to it as well. Use a spot of super glue to attach any findings to it for jewelry, or they will be able to pull out. Super glue should be the last step, after you're done with all the baking.

EDIT:

[link] *kittykitty5150 is the first one to send me a link to the finished product of using my tutorial. Thank you, *kittykitty5150!

'Tangled' Lantern Tutorial

Sun, 06 Feb 2011 01:07:32 PST

Inspired by the amazing-ness of the new Disney movie 'Tangled' - which was even more fantastic than I thought it would be - I made some lanterns over my christmas holidays. The fake candles I have flicker like real candles and everything!

Then, because of the intrest from all you lovely dA people I re-made the tutorial that my computer had deleted.
I've had it ready for about 3 weeks but I got the jitters wondering if was too wordy, or not detailed enough or whatever.... but schools started, so its now or never! ^_^

EDIT 1: Wow, didn't expect the response to this.... I love you all
EDIT 2: So excited, its taken me two months but I'm finally up to date with replying to comments, favs etc. !!
EDIT 3: Fixed up this description and added a few more facts/ frequently asked questions.

~FAQ~

1. If you make some and put them on dA I'd love to see them so send me a link!! And please link back to me!

2. I will add in what type of wire it is when I find out!

3. Sun Template: [link] (By yurihappiny: [link])

4. Full template: If you would like a full template with a less simple, closer to the film border, one has been made by kapuschati: [link]

5. The candles: I found a christmas carols thing and went there to buy my candles, so I can't be much help if you're looking to find some (apart from suggesting that you wait untill christmas and gatecrash some carols nights).
However if you go to a two dollar shop you might be able to find something similar. Good luck!

6. The lanterns don't actually float of corse, but I have them hanging from my bedroom celing at the moment so they kinda do....

7. VIP!! If you want to use real candles be my guest - just make sure you spray the paper with fire retardent first! O.o
The paper + wire may just be a little too heavy for these to float, and you would need much more heat ...
However the basic idea is simple, cover the top and put a real candle inside.

8. If you've got tissue-paper, bamboo and some hazardous materials on hand you could definately tweak them to work.... [link]

~~~~~~~~~~
Comments are <3 !
More pics of the lanterns here: [link]
This tutorial on tumblr: [link]

Freeform Woven Swirls Ear Cuff Tutorial

Tue, 22 May 2012 12:19:06 PDT

This is a quickie tutorial I did last year for instructables.com, but i forgot to post it here. So, here it is.

The only measurements on it are the ones for the cuff portion and the length of 20g wire to start with. I did that because it's supposed to be a freeform ear cuff. This is just a suggested swirl pattern. Really, the only important part is getting the cuff portion correct so it fits. The rest is all up to your imagination.

If you use this tutorial, I do have one request. If you post it online, come back to this page and post a link to your work in the comments so we can all see what you made! Pretty please!

For those of you who aren't sure how to wear ear cuffs, here are instructions for how to put one on:

Oxidizing jewelry tutorial

Tue, 19 May 2009 05:29:11 PDT

my 2nd tutorial
if you've missed my wire-wrapping tut, check it : [link]

this one works well with sterling silver, silver plated and copper wire too
if you have any questions about it, don't hesitate but ask me (in a comment please, so as others would also see it and learn from it)
hope you'll like it!

Tutorial: Wire Jig Armatures

Tue, 15 May 2012 09:58:30 PDT

I've had a couple people ask me about how I make armatures for my needle felted figures, so I put together a simple tutorial. It's not pretty, but I hope it gets the point across. This method basically uses a cork board as a wire jig. I've not heard of anyone else using this method, so I figured I'd share, since I find it very helpful. All my armatures are made with this method. The smaller armature in the last picture went on to become Fluttershy, and the other one was supposed to be Phere but I broke it later. XD

Shoulder Armor Tutorial

Mon, 04 May 2009 18:00:48 PDT

EDIT: This tutorial will be featured in 2 Cosplay magazines!
4th Issue of the Indonesian cosplay magazine called CozMagz [link]
Portuguese cosplay e-zine, Cosplayer [link]
MiscCostume Blog: [link]

Isn't that awesome??? zomg, I'm so excited!!!

---------------------------------------------------------------------

**EDIT: a constant question I get is, "How well does this stuff hold up? Won't it crack or break?" I think this is a rather silly question. Of course clay can crack or break. It's not metal.

Has mine broken yet? No. I made sure to take care of it by securing it to my jacket and packing it well when traveling. Treat it as you would any prop: With care.

As said above, this tutorial can be used for other armor and characters too, not just for Lightning. I'm sure other materials can be used as well, like real clay (if you have access to a real furnace) or paper clay, which air-dries. I chose Scupley cuz I knew how well it held detail, which was important for this prop.

I'll be adding fiber glass on the inside (if I can get ahold of it) to strengthen it so it doesn't break.

Materials:
...1/2 box of white sculpey = $6
...Tin foil = free
...Wire = free
...scotch tape = free
Time: 14hrs (so far)

Finished Pauldron
:thumb251246655: :thumb261611292:

------

People who've used my tutorial.

's armor: [link]
's armor: [link]
's armor: [link]
's armor: [link]
's Amano amor: [link]
's armor: [link]
's armor: [link]

Stripes Tutorial

Sun, 21 Dec 2008 22:21:01 PST

Merry Christmas!!!!!!!!!!!

Here's the tut I promised you all! I really hope you guys like it!

Please, if you have any question please let me know, and if you use it, please link me your work so I can see it

Finished piece: [link]

Make a wire cuff bangle frame

Sun, 03 Sep 2006 05:16:00 PDT

a basic but image heavy tutorial and making a wire frame for a cuff....

How to Add Ears

Wed, 18 Mar 2009 16:19:18 PDT

Base Fleece Hat Tutorial --> [link]
If you want to wire your ears so they stand up: [link]
Part 2 of making a Typhlosion hat and the patterns for this: [link]

So this is actually part one of three tutorials centered on this new Typhlosion hat I made, and now you can learn to make it too.

Don't feel limited to ears either, this can be used for anything that you want to put through a seam!

Bonus tip: If you're using a sewing machine, use your reverse function to sew back first and then forward. This will keep your stitches from unraveling.

Tutorial (c) ~clearkid Please don't re-post this anywhere, kindly leave a link instead.

For the glory of God!

If you have any questions, feel free to post them below.

Beadwork Tutorial

Tue, 28 Jul 2009 05:22:54 PDT

Thank you all for the many comments, views and for your interest in my work!

Here's finally the beadwork tutorial you've been waiting for~
It's the first time I made a tutorial and I hope you can understand everything...I sorry for my bad english!
If you've got questions just ask me

Pattern for Bulbasaur: [link]

Paper Charm Bracelet Tutorial

Wed, 09 Nov 2011 15:07:03 PST

This is exactly how I make these:

My other paper bead tutorials:

And FAQ:
Paper Bead FAQQ. Why do you make jewellery out of paper?
A. Paper is my precious, and we wants it, precious, we wants it. My sister showed me how to make paper beads when I was a child, and a couple of years ago, I remembered and felt like trying it again. And now I'm an addict, YAY! I love jewellery making using any and all materials, but I like the challenge of making a material as basic as paper look elegant.

Q. How strong are paper beads? Don't they fall apart?
A. This depends on if and how you seal them. I varnish all my paper beads to make them hard, glossy, and long-lasting. The Japanese are famous for making furniture out of paper. It

_{There are plenty of paper bead tutorials on the internet! But few of them show how elegant the beads can look. There's nothing wrong with overt recycling, but I wanted to offer a different perspective.

Also! Most of the tutorials say only to use one strip of paper, which makes the beads much narrower than mine. Since the ones I've made here are chunkier, they may be more suited for use as charms or pendants, while the narrower variety may be best to string on thread or wire.

This tutorial assumes you've never made jewelry, and have crap instincts when it comes to what colours go well together. Although, I'm a beginner myself, so my advice may not be the best. I'm just describing how I do it. If you have any questions, I'll do my best to answer them.
Google stuff for a second opinion, or search on dA.

The findings I used here were all bought from [link] but I also get a lot of findings from [link] on ebay.

(Will probably replace this with the .png, if I don't get bored of editing the file first. It won't make a difference... until the next version of dA comes out and the background colour's different. Eww.)

Credit for the arrow brushes goes to ewanism.}

Tutorial: Pre-Tied Obi

Fri, 01 Jun 2007 10:14:02 PDT

Since I was making one for my newly remade Kotoko cosplay, I thought I'd take pictures as I go, because I've heard from a few people that they don't know how to make these pre-tied obi's, like you can purchase to wear with yukata and komon in Japan.

All of this is my own experimentation on how to do it, I do not know if it is the same as how they do it in Japan. I looked at as many pictures as I could find of one's you can purchase, and built this idea from that.

You don't need to wire this bow! If you do, it will usually turn out looking like poop!

If you're having problems with getting it stiff enough, you're not using heavy enough interfacing! Add another layer on the other side, or go get yourself some heavier, collar weight interfacing.

Again, wiring this bow will make it look like poo ~ I developed this method so that you don't need wire (except in very rare circumstances, like bat-wing shaped bows) to get this to keep it's shape...

I do not have the information on how to make the sash in this, so I'll summarize them here:

- Take two strips of fabric, 2x the width you'd like the finished sash to be (I choose a 5" wide sash, so I cut two strips 10" wide). Add 1" seam allowance.
-- Ex: So, I cut 2 strips 11" by the width of the fabric (usually 45" or 60")
- Sew up the ends, making one really long sash
- Sew it into a tube, with right sides together
- Turn the tube right-side out
- Press
- Finish the edges of the sash, usually by tucking in the raw edges and pressing

You then take that sash and wrap it around your body usually 2-3 times, tucking the end in where you want the bow to be (this may take a few tries to get it placed right - I had to redo mine 3 times before I wound up with the edge in the front, to tuck in).

Let me know if this helps you out! I hope it does, because it's a lot easier to do than I had expected it would be!

Please do not redistribute this without asking me first! I want to know what sites these appear on!

Kind of a plush tutorial

Sat, 23 Aug 2008 02:52:32 PDT

I know it isn't right to ask for it, but PLEASE, if you use this tutorial:

Comment with a link to your work
Give me credits in the description.

Thanks! ^^
---

Well, some people have asked me how I make my plushes, so I've tried to make some sort of a tutorial, taking photos of the whole process to try to help.

1. This is some kind of a pattern, although it varies depending on the plush [link]
2.This is how I make the faces: I draw them on Photoshop and print them in that paper for shirts. Then I cut each part separately and iron them to the felt
PLUSH EYE TUTORIAL: [link]
3.To make the head, I'm sure anyone can say a thousand better ways, but this is how I make them: I cut a strip of felt as long as the head and sew it around the face, leaving a hole for the cotton
PLUSH HEAD TUTORIAL : [link]
4-5.I sew both body parts, leaving spaces to put wires and cotton inside. Wires aren't necessary, but the plush comes out more resistant and its pose can be changed
6.I sew the head to the plush. This is the common point for all plushes. There's only making the clothes and details left depending on the plush
7. Making the feet (I don't make them to almost any plush)
I haven't taken photos of how to make the clothes because I totally improvise as I go

I suppose the trick to make plushes is using the parts that won't be seen to put seams and ugly stuff. For instance, I used the parts under the clothings to make knots or whatever I need. You can calso see the undershirt isn't complete, as the other one is sewn on top. If something isn't going to be visible, I don't make it. I didn't take photos of the hair making process, but if you want, I can make another turorial for that with the next plush.

I hope this has helped and please, if you use it to make a plush, send me a link with the photo, I'd love to see how it comes out

Painted Paper Bead Tutorial

Wed, 12 Dec 2012 07:12:33 PST

_{Exactly how I made this:

SO SIMPLE. Simple is as simple does.

You can make the beads as wide as you want. I only used
1cm width because if they were any wider, they wouldn't fit
comfortably on memory wire, or worse, the memory wire
could dig into the beads and damage the ends.
It depends what you plan to use them for!

I copied some of the text from one of my other tutorials,
since the methods are similar.
Credit for the arrow brushes goes to ewanism.

My other paper bead tutorials:

And FAQ:

Paper Bead FAQQ. Why do you make jewellery out of paper?
A. Paper is my precious, and we wants it, precious, we wants it. My sister showed me how to make paper beads when I was a child, and a couple of years ago, I remembered and felt like trying it again. And now I'm an addict, YAY! I love jewellery making using any and all materials, but I like the challenge of making a material as basic as paper look elegant.

Q. How strong are paper beads? Don't they fall apart?
A. This depends on if and how you seal them. I varnish all my paper beads to make them hard, glossy, and long-lasting. The Japanese are famous for making furniture out of paper. It}

No Sew Fairy Wings Tutorial Part 1 of 2

Mon, 14 Nov 2011 21:32:35 PST

These wings took me about a day to make. I designed them for a special little girl (my cousin) for Halloween so she could be a fairy queen! They are incredibly lightweight and are durable enough to withstand all the energetic activities little kids do.

I like the elaborate butterfly wing design look, but personally suck at manipulating wire to get it. So I decided to cut the vein designs out of bristol board, and then reinforce the overall outline with wire.

This is also a no-sew method for those of you who find it a hassle to whip-stitch fabric onto a wire frame.

Questions? need clarification? Feel free to leave a comment and I'll do my best to demystify things for you ^_^

Looking for Part 2?

OMG A DD?! For THIS little tutorial I threw together? I can't describe the level of elation I'm feeling right now. I'm really happy that you all found this tutorial useful and easy to understand. Happy costuming!

wirewrapped pendant tutorial

Thu, 30 Apr 2009 08:43:07 PDT

Here is the tutorial as i promised
This piece is very similar to the iceberg pendant i made a while ago, but a little easier to create: [link]

i hope you'll find it useful!

if you have any questions about it, don't hesitate but ask me (in a comment please, so as others would also see it and learn from it)

if U use it, please give credit and send me a link.. i'm curious!

million thanks to for the lot of help!!

please, enjoy!

Macrame Wave Pattern Tutorial

Mon, 09 May 2011 19:50:29 PDT

This is collaboration between (she made the pendant), (she did the layout), and myself (I made the choker). Go give them a pat on the back for a job well done!

closeup of the pendant

This is the pattern for "Brenna's Copper Voice", a custom choker I made for a friend. It's 15 in/38 cm long, 1 inch/2.5 cm wide. I used .5 mm waxed cotton cord, size 6 seed beads, copper clapperless bells, and a pendant. Everything but the pendant can be found at FMG and the pendant was custom made by *balthasarcraft using copper wire, an aventurine nugget, and some tiny beads. I've kept some of the steps a little vague to allow you freedom to add and subtract as you see fit. You can add more bells, or use charms instead, or nothing at all. Don't want such a wide piece, or want a wider one? Change the number cords. Experiment to see what works!

1. Cut 4 cords of .5 mm cord (I'm using waxed cotton) to 3.5 meters each. Loop them through the hole of your stopper bead and pull the bead to the halfway point of the cords. Your cords are now folded in half, making for eight cords total. Take the cords on the outside, one on each side, and make three square knots, then take your T Pins and create an X with them by pushing them through the knots at an angle. You now have your piece anchored. Now create more square knots till you have a 2 inch long sinnet.

2. Bring your pins down and create an X with them at the bottom of the sinnet. Spread all eight of your cords on. Use the three on the far right to create a single square knot. The cord on far right after that set aside, take the other two plus a third cord that is to the left of them. Create another square knot, then set aside the cord on the right. Push a T Pin into the first knot, but do it at a far outside angle. You see the step you've just made? Repeat this again until you have a set of steps going down to the left. When you finish at the far left discard the far left cord. Loop a size 6 seed bead on the cord to the right of the finish knot and push it up. Follow this with a new square knot using the same pattern but going to the left instead. Anchor the knot on the far left with a T Pin at a sharp outward angle.

3. Repeat the step pattern going to the right. You see what cords I have placed the beads on? It's every other cord. Pull the cords VERY taught when you tie the knots as well. Be sure not to place too many beads on the cords. If you put too many then the piece will warp and you won't get the wave pattern from the beads. I have placed the beads as follows: 1, 5, 8. This may change throughout the piece though with 4 instead of 5, 7 instead of 8. Don't crowd them or they'll sit improperly.

4 & 5. You see how I have the lines of beads pulled very tight and anchored on the outside knot? May sure you do this. When you release the pins at the end of the piece the waves will then be created. In this step I'm showing you how to attach bells. Instead of discarding the far outside left cord I'm going to use it as a jumpring. Place another T Pin on the outside of the piece at about 1/4 of an inch away. Slide the bells on and then create a square knot. You see how loose the bells sit? This will allow them to jingle freely. Now instead of sliding just 1 seed bead on you will put on 2 instead. Each line of beads above the bells will have an extra seed bead if it fits properly in the line.

6. Now you can see the full line of bells as well as the pendant. Because the bail on the pendant was wide I simply slid it over the outside left square knot in line with the bells, and place only 1 seed bead above it. Look down the necklace now. You see at the far end there are waves? This is what happens when you release the T Pins, so make sure you keep those cords tight when you knot them. Now repeat each of the steps illustrated above until you reach the end.

7 & 8. Gather all the cords you used and create three square knots. Cut off the two shortest cords inside the core, then create enough square knots to cover the snipped ends. Cut off two more cords and cover the ends with more square knots. You should have half an inch of square knots not. Pull the knotting cords down and create a square knot. There is now a space with no knots. We'll return to this space later. Now create a 2 inch square knot sinnet.

9 & 10. Loop the cords over until they're in half, and push the bead from the beginning through it. This is your clasp. If the fit is good and won't come apart to easily it's the right size. If it's too big remove some of the square knots; if it's too small add square knots. Then fold it over and secure it down with the T Pins. Starting at the top of the empty space now make a square knot, then cut the two loose inner cords. Continue making square knots until you fill the empty space.

11 & 12. After the space is filled in cut the remain cords as close to the knot as possible. Make sure you tied these knots very tightly! Dab a little glue (I use Aleene's clear tacky glue) on the area where the empty space is and spread the glue around to cover it all. Let it dry. Voila, you're done!

Apple Charm Tutorial

Sat, 20 Sep 2008 13:47:39 PDT

download for full view~

alright, as promised, an apple charm tutorial. x_x this is my first tutorial, i hope its not too confusing or anything.. @__@ i actually did this a while ago but was too lazy to put everything together lol >_<

lol, about the glove: I only use it for making small things like leaves (things that require pressing) because I don't want to leave finger prints. It's difficult working with two gloves on, so most of the time only one of my hands are gloved.. XD

Some people use eye pins, others use loops of wires for their charms.... I use these screw eye things made out of wire that my friend made for me... so use whatever you have ..? XD

If you want to post this tutorial outside of Deviantart, I'd appreciate it if you ask my permission first please~

umm... ignore the 18 steps (you can prob condense it into like, 5..) - ITS REALLY NOT THAT HARD... xD
happy charm making....!!!! if this has helped you out even a LITTLE BIT, I'll be happy... :'D

and oh yeah.... funny story, I actually burned this charm, but you can't see it, LOL. DO NOT BURN YOUR CLAY!!!

Making of Puppeterasu Pt 2

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 23:17:49 PST

Part One

If you have questions, I'll do my best to answer them, but here's a couple of FAQs from part 1.

Q: Will you make these commercially?
A: No, I don't do commissions for cosplay, and as she took 2 months to make, I don't even want to put a price on the hours involved.

Q: How much were the materials?
A: I used two kinds of fur, one was $60/metre and one was $45/metre. The jaw set was $10...but with $40 shipping! The wire probably came to around $30-40, foam around $30-40, paper clay was about $50 and the perspex was free from a art supplies recycler. I already had the paints and markers. All in all, she cost around $250-300 in materials.

Q: Where can I get _____?
A: My materials were from my local fabric store, hardware store, art supplies recycler and the internet. Check around your local area or try a online search.

Video of the finished puppet:

Pictures of the finished puppet:

Basic Weaving2 Adding New Wire

Thu, 05 Feb 2009 07:09:20 PST

This tutorial teaches you how to attach a new wire while weaving. It is an addition to the techniques taught my in Basic Weaving Techniques tutorial (you can find that tutorial here: [link] ).

As you will see in the illustrations, this does not create a completely seamless look. Therefore it is advisable to only use this technique on inconspicuous areas of the piece you are working on.

The more you practice this the less obvious the joined area will be.

This works best using weave 3 of the Basic Weaving Techniques tutorial.

Prerequisite Tutorials:
• Basic Weaving Techniques [link]

Materials needed:
• 16g round wire
• 26g round dead soft wire

Tools needed:
• Flush cutter
• Flat nose pliers

Tutorial wire wrap - Tree pendant - Part 2

Fri, 14 Jun 2013 07:19:08 PDT

Very short tutorial on how to make a pendant tree of copper wire. Part 1 - here [link]
I've been doing this technique for more than two years, and I try to share with my friends with new discoveries.
My shop on Etsy [link]
To understand some of the technical processes, you can see the video on my channel YouTube:
[link]

FFX Shiva wig tutorial

Tue, 24 Aug 2010 17:35:12 PDT

O_O wow! This got a Daily Deviation!! Thanks everyone who's faved or commented, and thanks to *Talty for nomating me, you are sweet beyond words, dear!

[edit: Thanks to #FinalFantasy-Cosplay for their journal feature! I hope if you wandered into here through the group that this helps you out.]

Some people wanted to see how I made Shiva's wig, so here it is! I'm not a wig master by any means, so this was a bit of trial and error for me as well. The techniques in here that I used for foam core and wefting are basic techniques that are helpful for most advanced-styled wigs, so don't think they are limited to Shiva.

Some notes on the pouf tutorial:
Only follow the tutorial up to the part where the wire mesh is sewn onto the wig mesh. Do NOT start pulling and pinning up the hair onto the mesh. You don't need to do this because you'll be sewing wefts onto the mesh, which will cover it up.
-------

NOTES ON THE MATERIALS

[13 packs of Black and Gold Kanekalon braid] - I got mine from I Kick Shins. Be sure to buy the ones labeled "Jumbo Braid" on this page [link] and not the "silky straight" ones, which are more expensive and don't have the right texture for dredlocks.

[1 skein blue yarn] - the cheap stuff from Red Heart works great.

[20 yards gold ribbon] - Thicker metallic ribbons with a grain to them look better for this wig, so avoid satin ribbons, which have too muted a color and texture

[1 spool 12 or 16 gauge jewelry wire] - use jewelry wire, not regular hardware store wire, because it needs to be soft enough to thread and tightly twist without hurting fingers.

[6 small wooden rings / 2 medium-size styrofoam rings] - the size of the rings is really up to you and what your local store has, but the front rings need to be smaller than the back rings, and I could not find any small styrofoam rings, so I went with wood (which are easier to paint too)

[Aqua Net hair spray] - you will use the entire can of this, so get the cheapest hairspray you can find (usually AquaNet)

[Fabric glue or hot glue] - I like Fabri-Tac glue

[Blue thread (regular cotton/poly blend)] - don't use 100% cotton thread as it breaks easier

[Wig head and clamp] - VERY IMPORTANT! You cannot make this wig without a wig head + clamp

[Needles, both straight and curved] - you can find curved needles in any sewing store like JoAnn. They're commonly used for quilting.

------

You'll notice in the tutorial that I didn't suggest you stuff the wig head in order to make sure it will be big enough to fit your head when you're done, like most heavily styled wigs. This is because it isn't necessary - the wig is so immensely heavy when it's complete that the wefts, foam, rings, ribbon, etc will drag the entire thing down and make the wig mesh sag, so that it will be too big for any normal sized human head.

To wear the wig, I suggest buying some hair combs like these [link] and sewing 3 or 4 of them to the inside of the wig mesh around the front hairline. Then when are you ready to put the wig on, French braid your hair around the front of your head (like Princess Leia in Return of the Jedi - see this tutorial if you haven't done this before [link]). The wig combs will dig into the braid and prevent the wig from slipping backward.

Painful? Yeah, it is, a bit - but if you're cosplaying Shiva, that's the least of your worries.

--------

I hope this helped prospective Shiva cosplayers out a bit, and offered the rest of you a look at what has so far been the most intense project of my cosplay life.

Let me know if you spot any typoes or mistakes in the tutorial. Thanks!

Steampunk ring tutorial

Mon, 21 Jan 2013 09:14:49 PST

My late birthday gift for you is ready at last:
UNISEX STEAMPUNK RING!

I hope you'll like it!

DOWNLOAD FOR FULL VIEW!

I made this tut for those who already know the basic wire wrapping techniques.. if you're a beginner, learn those first (you can find a lot of great tutorials on the web)

You can make a matching ear cuff using my other tutorial:

If you need help about oxidizing your jewelry, plz, check this:

The finished ring is available in my etsy shop:
[link]

Heart within a heart tutorial

Sun, 20 Jul 2008 14:40:57 PDT

Hey there, this is my first tutorial
this one's to help you make the heart within a heart piece
*I want to clarify that this is the only piece as well as the stars, that I make with cookie cutters because it's difficult to do it without them. The other pieces I make em by freehand including the blossomed hearts

Hope you understand it and enjoy it
finished piece: [link]

Head Sculpting Tutorial

Mon, 07 Feb 2011 13:50:02 PST

Dedicated to orange-mushroom, who asked for it but had to wait ages for it. Im sorry mate!! T-T

In my new tutorial I go over the basics of sculpting a head along with the hair.
Next requests for a tutorial are taken, and I try to avoid what happened to the last guy who asked for a tutorial....

See my other tutorials!

Armature to Art Doll Part 1

Tue, 01 Feb 2011 08:25:09 PST

Update 6th February 2013
Well I made this tutorial almost exactly two years ago now! It's been in storage for a year, but I'm happy to rerelease it to the DA community. If you could take a couple of minutes to read through the following:

1. I don't make dolls this way anymore. I use more specific tools and spend more time getting things right, but this acts as a perfect starting point for you to experiment.
2. That's it haha I just wanted to stress how old and dated this is
3. My tumblr is: [link] and my facebook is [link]
4. OH and if you make a doll using this tutorial submit it to my group,
#PosableArtDolls so everyone can see!

Enjoy, have fun, PLEASE let me see what you make!

----------------------

Part Two: [link]

Ohhhh how exciting!!

Part one of a two part series on how to make your own artist doll. This part tells you how to make the armature.

----

Edit: Hi everyone, just want to say a huge thank you for all the favs and comments, there are some really awesome posable creatures turning up on DA now! It's great to see so many people using and enjoying my tutorial and how variable the dolls can be as well, some are pretty basic and then there are the astoundingly sculpted dolls like *Wood-Splitter-Lee's dragons and *Vertaki beautiful gryphon, Dojo. If you make a doll please let me know, I've found most through dolls being submitted to groups.

I have a small request if you do make a doll - please link back to the tutorial so others can try making one for themselves! It would be a great help, and the more dolls there are in the world then the merrier we will be.

Thanks again for all your support, it really means a lot to me. Keep craftin'!
end edit

---

Edit2: Hi again! The growing number of awesome dolls meant I had to bring them all together somehow so if you do make a doll or are interested in making one, or even if you just love art dolls, then swing by my group,
!

---

Edit3: This tutorial has been typed up by Amanda DiVirgilio and featured on Doll Makers Dream! [link] Thanks Amanda!

---

FAQs
What is Fimo?
Fimo is a polymer clay (meaning it's plastic based) which is baked in a standard home oven at 110ºC for half an hour to cure it. It feels a little like elasticy play-dough when fresh and sets hard when baked.
Other affordable craft polymer clays are Sculpey and Primo, you can use both of these for this tutorial quite happily.

Can I use another type of clay for my doll?
You could use air drying clay too. That would be fine, just skip the parts about the oven!

I don't have pin heads, what do I use for eyes?
You can use beads, marbles, bits of Fimo rolled and cooked earlier (remember Fimo doesn't need to be baked as long if it's thin/small) etc. Anything round, really! ~MaryBunnie uses "Czech glass drop" beads and loves them.

FLORAL TAPE, AAH!
I know, it's frustrating! It's also hard to know if you have the right one as there is such a lack of distinction in florists. If it feels papery then it's right, if it feels smooth and is shiney then it's wrong. If you're buying online then try to look for 'stemwind'. If you're not buying online then look in Poundland (in Britain), local florists, gardening centers, haberdasheries and anywhere that sells fake or real flowers, they will usually have some.

I hate floral tape!!
That's fine, it's not for everyone, if you honestly can't stand it (or can't find it) then you could also use masking tape, but it's stiff nature could be even more frustrating. If both masking tape and floral tape send you into a frenzy then you can also go ahead and not use either! It just means the fimo won't stick to the wire and could prove even more frustrating...

What gauge wire do you use?
I don't know! (That's helpful isn't it )
I used to buy my wire in my Universities art supplies shop and it didn't have the gauge marked on it, or the material (zinc, aluminium etc) If you're buying in that sort of situation then use your own judgement to decide on the best wire for you. If you're making a large doll, you will need a strong wire. If you are making a small and delicate doll then you'll need a smaller wire! I use a mix for my dolls, thick for the armatures and thin for the wings.
Recently I moved home and there aren't any craft stores here, so I have to get creative with my suppliers! My local gardening center sells gardening wire, for tying up trees and other established plants, and I use that for the armatures. It is a LOT stiffer but also harder to nick and therefore lasts longer. So far it's working excellently, but I do have to use pliers to form it.

What gauge jewelry wire do you use?
Once again, I don't know. I would say it's a medium gauge. It comes on a spool, it's cheap, I used to use copper but now I use... Well it's gold in colour, so it could be brass! I'm not sure! You just have to go to your supplier and see what they have.
A helpful hint: my supplier also stocks floral tape and the wire I use and the tape are next to each other - this means the wire could also be that wire you get for putting in flowers to form them. Try looking in a florist.

What gauge are the tubes?
3/32" or 2.4mm aluminium tubes.

Where can I get good fur?
I buy my fur from Mohair Bear Making Supplies, who are a British company who order their fur from Germany (some of it anyway). Sometimes if they don't have what I want (a rare occurrence!) then I go to Christie Bears. If you are shopping online then look for teddy bear supply websites, they usually have the highest quality fur.
You can go to haberdasheries and look at their fur, I sometimes go to a dressmakers supplies store as they stock soft furs for bridal capes and things.
If you live in America then I'm told Jo Anns and Michaels often have nice fur. Also try Etsy, there are a number of sellers on there. ~mammalfeathers buys her fur in scrap packs from a supplier on Etsy and loves it, as the mixed variety inspire new designs.

What can I use to make the pattern?
You can use any cottony fabric you can find. Old pillow-cases, old t-shirts, I use the lining of some curtains that were being thrown out of my old house. They were huge so it's lasting me a long time! (It also means all my patterns are spotty which is quite nice.)
I have also used newspaper a few times to make patterns, or just newsprint paper, and measured the doll instead of wrapping the fabric around it.

How do you dye fur?
.... *deep breath*
Faux fur is impossible to dye. I have tried hundreds of methods and read through hundreds more tutorials, and everything is kind of half baked. Essentially the plastic that makes the fur doesn't take dye but does stain, so there are methods like sharpie dying or acrylic washes. (*Kat-Nicholson used copics to colour Afalon's mane!)
However I have found personally that sharpie dying is very expensive and acrylic washes make the fur go 'crispy'. If I have to do markings on a doll I will use Dylon Fabric Paints. What I do is take a small amount on a paintbrush and brush it very softly onto the fur, making sure there aren't any globs, then brush it more vigorously with a nail brush.
The fur stays very soft, maybe not as soft as the original fur, but compared to dyeing with acrylics and sharpies it's a lot better. Of course the more paint you put on then the 'stickier' it gets. Also Dylon fabric paints are heat set so it means if the fur gets wet at any point then it's going to be ruined (but it would be ruined whether or not it had paint on it!).
Of course you can use RIT dyes on natural materials like mohair, but I think mohair fur is pretty gross! I tried using it on faux fur and it doesn't work of course, it just dyed the backing of the fabric.
*Wood-Splitter-Lee uses Tulip fabric spray paint to colour her dolls, which she bought in Michaels, but Britain doesn't have a Michaels so I haven't tried them yet. Tins of fabric spray paint are available from a number of suppliers but they're too expensive for me to buy for the dolls at the moment.
My best advice is to just buy fur in the colour you need! I know that's useless but it really is something that should be considered. However I always buy short pile almond coloured fur and it takes the dye very well.

How do you make wings?
That's a secret! If you've got this far and made a doll I'm sure you can work out a method using your knew found knowledge.

How do you stick feathers on?
Using hot glue primarily but recently I've been using fabri-tac (it's an American product and expensive to buy over here but I found some and tried it out! Turns out it's exactly the same as UHU glue, or bostik multi-purpose glue.)

Grief Seed Tutorial

Wed, 22 Jun 2011 20:40:54 PDT

If you haven't finished watching the show yet read this description at your own risk. SPOILERS AHOY.

-Materials-
Plastic ball, Paperclay, nail glue, sewing pins, a round bead, a bicone crystal, clear coat, Gesso, acrylic paint, and a brushtip prismacolor marker.

-Tools-
Embossing tools, Precision Tweezers, a nail file, wirecutters, paint brushes, a lighter, and a Xacto Retractable.

-Reference Pictures-
[link]

-How to work with Paperclay-
[link]

-Soul Gems-
[link]

-Other Witches-
1. Charlotte is a no-go due to the circled area. [link] That is too delicate for Paperclay. The actual sphere part of her seed would also have to be casted.
2. HN Elly (Kirsten) [link] Would work for this. You'd just have to cover most of the piece in Paperclay and cut the squares out or paint that stuff on. It's up to you.
3. Elsa Maria [link] Can work with this if you add additional wire to the pin for her crest.
4. Sayaka/Oktavia Von Seckendorf's seed is the one that Madoka used to save Homura in episode 10 [link] [link] The second picture is from the official production note book and it says "Sayaka majo grief seed" . The reason her seed looks so weird in 8 is because it was still forming and creating her barrier. This didn't happen with the other character we see turn into a Witch because she didn't have a barrier.
5. Kriemhild Gretchen/Madoka [link] [link] . Her seed has dark parts in the BD. To make mine I simply added an extra bar to the front and added an oval [link] . The ribbon was a painted organaza ribbon split into three sections and glued together. Take note that satin is too thick for this application. The star was laid down in multiple lines of clay [link] . I would let it dry, sand it, and slowly add more clay to shape it [link] . I gave the star more dimension than it had in the show to challenge myself. It looked like this before I painted it [link] .
6. Mystery Seed [link] . Homura throws this at Sayaka in episode 8. I don't know which Witch it's for but I'm going to make a wild guess that it's Roberta. Construction would be about the same as Gertrud's.
7. Homura/Homulily [link] [link] wouldn't work.
8. Mami/Candeloro [link] would work.
9. Kyoko/Ophelia [link] would be tricky.
10. Gisela [link] If you could find a good base for the handle bars.
11. Albertine [link] Would work if you didn't make the star out of Paperclay.
12. Isabel [link] Would work if you found a good base for the trophy.
13. Patricia [link] Would work.
14. Walpurgis Night [link] THE EASIEST ONE.

Feel free to ask questions. Please do not ask me to make a Grief seed for you.

Tinkerbell Wings Tutorial

Sat, 12 Sep 2009 08:21:25 PDT

This is a tutorial for how I made the wings for the Tinkerbell costume I made as a commission. It is similar to the tutorial on firefly-path.net since that is what I first used to figure out to make the wings for my Primera costume. But I have found that there are some things I prefer to do differently. One thing I do is make the wings to be worn with a corset or at least a corset-like garment. These wings are slipped into the costume for wear to avoid unsightly straps.

For pictures of the completed costume you can check out the entry for it on ACP: [link]

Materials needed: wire(I think I used a 14 gauge if I remember right), pliers, wire cutters, tape(I had some painters tape lying around but I would have preferred to use masking or duct), organza, sharp fabric scissors, pins, low temp hot glue gun, matching glue sticks, sparkly fabric paint, paint brush, craft foam, other scissors.

1. Cut out appropriate lengths of wire and bend them into the shapes. Leave excess tails of wire. I find it helpful to tape the tails together near the base of the wings.

2. For each wing section cut out a piece of organza that is vaguely the same shape with a generous excess of fabric.

3. Overlap the excess organza and pin into place. This is when you make sure the fabric is pulled as taut as you want it.

4. Work on one wing section at a time. Carefully unpin a small section of organza at a time and run a line of hot glue down the wire between the layers of organza. As you do this press the layers of organza together to get a good seal. Personally I find that with using the low temp hot glue gun I can do this with my fingers and not be bothered. But if the heat bothers you, you may want to find some other tools to help you with this part. (I've also switched wing sides in this picture.)

5. Carefully trim away the excess organza. You don't want to accidentally tear into your wing fabric.

6. Finish each wing section.

7. Now is the time to add designs and more flair to your wings if you would like. I like to use sparkly fabric paint. The first thing I like to do is use the paintbrush to paint along the edges to help mask the cut edge of the organza. After that dries I just squirt it right out of the tube onto the fabric for the designs. Do your best at having a steady hand for this. Go back and and fill and blend in any little bits of line that may have been missed. If you want to be really careful about having your designs symmetrical it helps to do something like draw our your design on something else first, lay your wings on that, then trace the design onto the wings since you can see through the organza quite easily.

8. Shape and tape the excess wire into a sort of U shape.

9. Cut out squares of craft foam. Sandwich and glue the wire between squares of craft foam. Layer more craft foam squares onto the side that will be facing the back for extra cushion and comfort. As an optional step you can also cover this with fabric after building up the craft foam if you would like.

10. Slip the wings into the costume. The wings are ready to be worn!

Wire Guy Tutorial :D

Tue, 13 Jan 2009 13:43:59 PST

Most of the proportions in this are based on your own body, so if you don't dig the way it looks, just try adjusting the proportions. I usually use 26ga wire, but for larger ones I'd recommend trying a thicker gauge.

This is my first tutorial, so I hope you'll be forgiving! And I hope it's actually helpful!

This is how I made [link] these little guys.

Edit: Added a few key words. This is currently my most viewed deviation, I'm glad folks have found it helpful so far!

->Razzi!

Bandless Fox Ear Tutorial

Tue, 10 Mar 2009 15:26:41 PDT

Note~
I hate these. |D

They're such a pain, usually one ear will turn out perfect, and the other will fall off at the slightest provocation. They can't be sold either because people have such different ear shapes.

Also, they hurt to wear for a long time.

Still, I got a request to make a tutorial, and I do get quite a few favorites on them, so why not..? =w= (Although it would have been nice if Model Magic was cheaper. Damn craft stores send out 40% off coupons then put everything in the store 30% off so you can't use the stupid things. Assholes. )

I tried adding extra pipecleaner to make it more secure, but it didn't work and I cut the excess off.

Draenei Hoof Tutorial

Wed, 04 Nov 2009 13:00:54 PST

No, they aren't uncomfortable. They were more comfortable than many of my heels, to be honest.
Yes, they are heavy.
But the added weight helped keep me upright.
I was able to walk around all night, up and down stairs, as well as dance, with no trouble.

Materials Used
Old platform boots with the heels removed, and a wooden platform attached to the bottoms for added height.
Wire mesh (window screen, to be exact)
Paper mache
Bondo
Ardex Feather Finish Cement
Acrylic paint
Polyurethane
Craft foam sheets & faux leather (hot glued on) for the "armor"

*edit* I was just popping on before bed and saw a DD?? Holy cow, thank you so much :0 *dies of joy*

How to make a TARDIS (that holds truffles)

Sat, 05 Jan 2013 15:31:19 PST

Over the course of a month I slowly pieced this together. I made a few mistakes and redid a few things, but overall, it came out looking really nice and the person I made it for was in love with it. This is for personal use only. Enjoy!

I used: Cardboard, White Posterboard (or cardstock), Hot Glue Gun, Blue/Silver/Black Acrylic Paint, Glue Stick, Thin Wire, Cereal Box, Semi-clear Plastic Sheeting, Varnish, Straight Edge Blade, Ruler, My Printer, Scissors, and lots of sweat and tears

I was inspired by "TARDIS Chocolate/Trinket Box"
by ~aria-arissa [link]

Images of Doctor Who characters were created by ~Hawkstone [link] and are available for sale as magnets on Hawkstone's site.

Doctor Who shapes were created by *Girl-on-the-Moon [link]

EDIT: I have been pointed out an error made in my haste (so embarrassing):
"~Mordrogyn
Cool but you realize you have too many panels on the sides right?"
When making yours, you might want to take Mordrogyn's advice.

Armature to Art Doll Part 2

Tue, 01 Feb 2011 08:36:16 PST

Part two!
Part one: [link]

Special thanks:

Notable links:
Mark Dennis: [link]
Sandra Arteaga Dolls: [link]
Jack Johnston Artdolls: [link]

UK Online supplies:
Mohair Bear Making Supplies: [link]
Lakeland Fly Tying: [link]

I hope this tutorial helped you, if you make a creature with it then please please send me a link to it! I'd love to see what comes of this!

is a group I have started to bring together all the incredible art dolls found on this brilliant 'site! If you have a doll, need some help or just want some inspiration then swing by and have a look!

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FAQs
What is Fimo?
Fimo is a polymer clay (meaning it's plastic based) which is baked in a standard home oven at 110ºC for half an hour to cure it. It feels a little like elasticy play-dough when fresh and sets hard when baked.
Other affordable craft polymer clays are Sculpey and Primo, you can use both of these for this tutorial quite happily.

Can I use another type of clay for my doll?
You could use air drying clay too. That would be fine, just skip the parts about the oven!

I don't have pin heads, what do I use for eyes?
You can use beads, marbles, bits of Fimo rolled and cooked earlier (remember Fimo doesn't need to be baked as long if it's thin/small) etc. Anything round, really! *MaryBunnie uses "Czech glass drop" beads and loves them.

FLORAL TAPE, AAH!
I know, it's frustrating! It's also hard to know if you have the right one as there is such a lack of distinction in florists. If it feels papery then it's right, if it feels smooth and is shiney then it's wrong. If you're buying online then try to look for 'stemwind'. If you're not buying online then look in Poundland (in Britain), local florists, gardening centers, haberdasheries and anywhere that sells fake or real flowers, they will usually have some.

I hate floral tape!!
That's fine, it's not for everyone, if you honestly can't stand it (or can't find it) then you could also use masking tape, but it's stiff nature could be even more frustrating. If both masking tape and floral tape send you into a frenzy then you can also go ahead and not use either! It just means the fimo won't stick to the wire and could prove even more frustrating...

What gauge wire do you use?
I don't know! (That's helpful isn't it )
I used to buy my wire in my Universities art supplies shop and it didn't have the gauge marked on it, or the material (zinc, aluminium etc) If you're buying in that sort of situation then use your own judgement to decide on the best wire for you. If you're making a large doll, you will need a strong wire. If you are making a small and delicate doll then you'll need a smaller wire! I use a mix for my dolls, thick for the armatures and thin for the wings.
Recently I moved home and there aren't any craft stores here, so I have to get creative with my suppliers! My local gardening center sells gardening wire, for tying up trees and other established plants, and I use that for the armatures. It is a LOT stiffer but also harder to nick and therefore lasts longer. So far it's working excellently, but I do have to use pliers to form it.

What gauge jewelry wire do you use?
Once again, I don't know. I would say it's a medium gauge. It comes on a spool, it's cheap, I used to use copper but now I use... Well it's gold in colour, so it could be brass! I'm not sure! You just have to go to your supplier and see what they have.
A helpful hint: my supplier also stocks floral tape and the wire I use and the tape are next to each other - this means the wire could also be that wire you get for putting in flowers to form them. Try looking in a florist.

What gauge are the tubes?
3/32" or 2.4mm aluminium tubes.

Where can I get good fur?
I buy my fur from Mohair Bear Making Supplies, who are a British company who order their fur from Germany (some of it anyway). Sometimes if they don't have what I want (a rare occurrence!) then I go to Christie Bears. If you are shopping online then look for teddy bear supply websites, they usually have the highest quality fur.
You can go to haberdasheries and look at their fur, I sometimes go to a dressmakers supplies store as they stock soft furs for bridal capes and things.
If you live in America then I'm told Jo Anns and Michaels often have nice fur. Also try Etsy, there are a number of sellers on there. ~mammalfeathers buys her fur in scrap packs from a supplier on Etsy and loves it, as the mixed variety inspire new designs.

What can I use to make the pattern?
You can use any cottony fabric you can find. Old pillow-cases, old t-shirts, I use the lining of some curtains that were being thrown out of my old house. They were huge so it's lasting me a long time! (It also means all my patterns are spotty which is quite nice.)
I have also used newspaper a few times to make patterns, or just newsprint paper, and measured the doll instead of wrapping the fabric around it.

How do you dye fur?
.... *deep breath*
Faux fur is impossible to dye. I have tried hundreds of methods and read through hundreds more tutorials, and everything is kind of half baked. Essentially the plastic that makes the fur doesn't take dye but does stain, so there are methods like sharpie dying or acrylic washes. (*thedreamwolf used copics to colour Afalon's mane!)
However I have found personally that sharpie dying is very expensive and acrylic washes make the fur go 'crispy'. If I have to do markings on a doll I will use Dylon Fabric Paints. What I do is take a small amount on a paintbrush and brush it very softly onto the fur, making sure there aren't any globs, then brush it more vigorously with a nail brush.
The fur stays very soft, maybe not as soft as the original fur, but compared to dyeing with acrylics and sharpies it's a lot better. Of course the more paint you put on then the 'stickier' it gets. Also Dylon fabric paints are heat set so it means if the fur gets wet at any point then it's going to be ruined (but it would be ruined whether or not it had paint on it!).
Of course you can use RIT dyes on natural materials like mohair, but I think mohair fur is pretty gross! I tried using it on faux fur and it doesn't work of course, it just dyed the backing of the fabric.
*WoodSplitterLee uses Tulip fabric spray paint to colour her dolls, which she bought in Michaels, but Britain doesn't have a Michaels so I haven't tried them yet. Tins of fabric spray paint are available from a number of suppliers but they're too expensive for me to buy for the dolls at the moment.
My best advice is to just buy fur in the colour you need! I know that's useless but it really is something that should be considered. However I always buy short pile almond coloured fur and it takes the dye very well.

How do you make wings?
That's a secret! If you've got this far and made a doll I'm sure you can work out a method using your knew found knowledge.

How do you stick feathers on?
Using hot glue primarily but recently I've been using fabri-tac (it's an American product and expensive to buy over here but I found some and tried it out! Turns out it's exactly the same as UHU glue, or bostik multi-purpose glue.)

Intertwining Ring Tutorial

Wed, 24 Feb 2010 21:32:17 PST

How to make an intertwining ring.
The tutorial shows the wire twists in copper with the finished example in Sterling Silver. Copper wire is readily available without the cost of gold or silver. Your choice.
Take a look at the excellent work of these artists!
Aranglinn and his Intertwining Ring [link]
Lothmenel's own version that is set with a lovely garnet. [link]
And SunreiCreations terrific ring with a moonstone [link]

If you like my work you can also follow me at Harlewood Studio on Facebook. [link]

Imperial knight tutorial

Fri, 01 Feb 2008 06:45:18 PST

Tada!

If somebody wants to translate it, be my guest! Maybe I'll translate is later but not for now, I've been working on it since this morning. I hope I can give some inspiration to other costumers, please let me see your projects then!

If you use this tutorial somewhere else, link or let me know plz...

------------------------------------------
EDIT: thanks to someone who sent me a part of this already translated by computer, I started translating and editting that text. The result:
------------------------------------------
Introduction:

In this tutorial I describe how I made my Imperial Knight armor. I made this armour this way because I have a small budget and I wanted to use materials that are not to difficult to obtain. If you want to make, for instance, a not yet exported armor, or a piece of an armor, and you don’t want to spend more than hundred Euros, I think this is the best method. This armor, however, has not been made to catch large blows. But a standard plastic clone/stormtrooper armor isn’t really as well. You will need someone for the first steps also, and this person has to be someone you trusts and has some handyness.

The dutch tutorial has been already published before in Teekay-421 the Belgian Star Wars fanclub magazine. Since I had the question from other men outside Belgium to read the tutorial I made, I made it also available online. If you have any questions, you can always contact me!

What you need:
- gips-rolls/ plaster (to find in hobby store and pharmacists);
- synthetic clay (dolls clay);
- a (large) plastic bag / the plastic you can put over food etc in the kitchen (dunno the English name);
- a knife or something else where you can sculpt with;
- ground paint/ primer that entirely covers the material, best suitable for all sorts of material;
- possible fortification material for the armor, like wire or hard plastic;
- the finishing off of the chestplate or other parts is done with rubber leaf;
- very soft shed papers; (I dunno if this is right, but I mean sanding papers)

Method:

First and especially, you have to know where to begin. I first looked up some reference. Then I drew all parts myself, with close-ups on the more difficult parts. This is a good way to know your armor. Also you have to calculate beforehand how much and which materials you necessarily will have to use. Buy better something more then something less.

The armpieces and the top breast piece are made from plaster. Other parts are made from rubber leaf, because of the elasticity. EDIT: see that your layers of rubber are thick enough. You can use it’s elasticity for bending them while making the final forms, but you’ll have to see that this form stays that way when you start painting and after. Otherwise you’ll start to have cracks in the paint. For this project, I needed approximately 7 rolls plaster. Below you find a method to make the armor:

(Pic caption: Sigel Dare, Imperial knight from the Legacy- comics, drawn by Jan Duursema)

- Pack the part of the body, of which you want to make an armor, with a plastic bag or the kitchen thing. See that these plastics are closely attached to the body, and that they contain not much irregularities.

- Take the plaster rolls and cut the wire in pieces. Dip them in a scale with water, so that the plaster begins to attach, and bring on. Put them on your body breadthwise at the place you want the armor to be made. Take better some more pieces than some less. See that they are attached to eachother and that you have some spares at the side of the armor. When you are finishing, you will have to cut of some of the sides to make them look good.

- Do this layer by layer, according to your own choice. Do not forget that the armor must be thick enough. This means really a half centimeter minimum.

- When you work on crucial spots, you can make those stronger, for instance by wiring the harnass from inside or in the plaster. This was certainly necessarily at my shoulders because it had to rest there, and also I have to put in on and off there.
(Pic caption – Own reference material imperial knight)

- now you’ll have to sit and eventually walk around with the plaster on your body, until you feel that the plaster is (almost) dry. If it is hard enough, you can remove it and leave it further to dry.

- As it is totally dry, you can begin with the borders. With a saw, dremel or sanding paper, you can cut out the general form. This doesn’t have to be detailed yet.

- At the sides you just cut out, you can best lay some plaster pieces. Fold these pieces in such a way around the sides so it covers all the irregularities. Your edges will look more beautiful and finished.

- Smooth the unwanted pits and bumps. First, mark them with an alcohol stylus or something of that kind. This is very important, do this very often while filling the gaps. Use different light raid to discover these inequalities. This you can do best with naturally – and artificial light.

- Now the filling of the holes begins. Take a small piece of synthetic clay and knead it. If the clay becomes sticky, then wet your fingers. How more wet you make the clay, how more details you can sculpt. Too wet is not good as well, use thus only your fingers to sprinkle it.

- Bring on the clay and smooth these irregularities untill all the indicated pits are filled up. Make your fingers wet to smooth the sides out enough.

- As this clay is dry, you can rub the armor with a very soft sanding paper.

- View if you’re satisfied with the result. Search for new and old inequalities and repeat the previous steps.

- You’ll have to do this until you totally satisfied. Then you have the basic form you can sculpt the details on. EDIT: it’s very important that your base is clear, don’t start adding details before the base is ok!

- In the case of this costume, we had to add grooves. Be sure that the place where these must come are covered thick enough with the clay. If you’re not sure, put another layer on it. Letit dry before you start to cut. This is a dangerous work, a little mistake can wrong or even destruct your armor! So be cautious. Work step by step!

- To make the armor more easily wearable, we shot a pop revet on a place that wasn’t yet covered with clay (there still need to be a broader part at the edges) At this pop revet, we attached a uhmm how do you call it, a wire that can grow and shrink, like bungie jumpers, with a clicking system at the end. Now the armor stays attached on my body, so that it doesn’t wobbles uncomfortably.

- There must also be a thickened edge around particular zones of the armor. We rolled sausages with the clay and laid these on the right places. Then we pasted them on the harnass with water.

- At the back of the armor there came other more geometrical thickened pieces. We cut the forms in rubber foam leaf and we glued these on the back with power glue. Use glue that glues directly at the parts that do not want to be glued with the hot glue. If you’re rich, you can use that glue everywhere, the rubber is pasted very fast and good that way, but hot glue can do as well.

- Which parts of the armor that aren’t looking good, or need to be made more durable, can be adapted with Milliput or some other strong sculpting material like apoxie sculpt. These are very strong but also expensive products that consists of two components.

- Sand all parts yet once until you are convinced that the armor is totally in order.

- The armor is now almost ready. It is ready for the first paint round. We packed the bungie thing away in a plastic bag, and begun to lay the first layer. Paintjobs are very essential. It strengthens the armor and makes each form of unevennesses back clear. You can always rub and sand on your layers with primer. Like this, you can make the armor yet more smoother, but just watch out that you don’t sand too deeply so that the plaster becomes visible again! Lay enough layers. Better a surplus then too little. All rules of painting count here, so better thin without irregularities, and many, than thick and afterwards ugly.

- As the primer is entirely dried, you can start coloring. Sprayers are the best option if you want a good looking even armor. As the color to your taste is and the armor is totally dried, can you always start weathering. We used the weathering techniques to draw the attention on the (wanted) gaps in the armor. You can so give the armor visually more depth.

I also put velco on my armor (not visible), to attach the shoulder pieces and the coat on it.

The armpieces have been made in the same way as the breast piece. These are much more easily made, because of the simplicity of the arms. The upper forms are made with with rubber leaf again. The seams between the rubber pieces can be removed afterwards with clay or milliput or something else.

The other parts (shoulder piece, hand piece, belly piece and the waist piece) have been made from rubber leaf. The shoulder piece is also made with a found rubber armor piece, from some child’s costume playset. The height difference between the rubber and the rubber leaf has been altered at some places with milliput.

(pic caption – the priming and paint of other pieces)
(pic caption – the pieces in rubber leaf design and execution)

The lighsaber consists mainly of a tube of a vacuumcleanrt and a pond tube. In that tube there are the electronics from the 2 LED’s that I have used. For more information about custom lightsabers: [link]
Thee lightsaber’s blade must be silver according to Jan Duursema.

The coat lifts a reddish brown color according to Jan. This color is quite difficult to find, and I gave an own interpretation at the color so that it fits better with the armor colour. The color of the fabrics were a little off the image I had, perhaps I will replace them some day.

The belt is artificial leather on a form cut out of vinyl (like what you can lay on the ground) and then pasted with hot glue. Inside and all around the belt I attached Velcro to hang the fabric pieces (tabards) on. I did this over the whole belt so I can adjust the tabards just the way I want.

I carry normal black pants. The sweater is a sort of sports underwear where I put theVelcro on, to hold the belly plate and my coat. When I ever find something more suitable I will replace that shirt. A Darth Vader jumpsuit would be perfect but it’s expensive like hell and I only need the upper part, which I won’t find in female form anyway.

Cost price

- An sum of the materials:
- Approximately 7 rolls plaster
- Rubber foam leaves
- 1 package synthetic clay
- Primer paint
- pot paint bottom layer
- 1 liter spray Can Motip red buses

Hereby are not counted: the glues and Velcro. Also the buying of fabrics is not to underestimate.

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Good luck and enjoy!

No Sew Fairy Wings Tutorial Part 2 of 2

Mon, 14 Nov 2011 21:35:23 PST

Moveable Cat Ear Tutorial

Thu, 15 Jul 2010 15:11:12 PDT

Oops, I forgot to mention. The ears WILL spring back up when you let go. I abused my first set of ears and they're still fine, so don't worry too much about it.

Quick, easy, inexpensive and looks great. My photos don't really do it justice, sorry, so they might look a little messy. Irl they look fine, though.

Fishing wire is stronger so it's good, but I think clear thread shows up less. It's really more about what you have lying around at home xD
Edit: Fishing wire is definitely better, clear thread snaps after a while xD But it's easy to replace so it's still about whatever you have lying around

Made by

Wire working basics

Thu, 19 Apr 2007 12:32:22 PDT

part one of a tutorial on the basics wire wrapped jewelry.

Wolf Tutorial

Tue, 28 Feb 2012 14:17:20 PST

A walk-through/tutorial of my new sculpture, the wolf:

Brief my ASS. -_- This seems to be a common pattern among my tutorials, intending to make something short and then ending up with another "huge ass tutorial".

Download for best view!

For this tutorial you will need:
- Foil
- Wire
- Wooden Base
- Paints
- Super Sculpey

Optional, but preferred:
- Sculpey Firm
- Airbrush
- Airbrush Paints
- Different metallic and wooden tools
- Turpentine

+ Crap loads of different glitter/glow paints if you're into that kind of wolves...

If you haven't already, make sure to read my other tutorials first! Be sure to especially check out the Textures-tutorial, I used the hair-part to texture the fur of the wolf.

Now I'll be collecting my reward for sitting still for hours in the form of MW3....

Wire-Wrapped Crown Making

Sat, 18 Nov 2006 18:13:13 PST

the tutorial on wire wrapped crowns I promised for my 4000 page views.

This is an accedental resubmit ( deleated it by mistake trying to upload a preview image, which it will not let me do)

:.Sculpting tools - Tutorial.:

Tue, 06 Mar 2012 12:35:20 PST

Here you go! Sculpting tools tutorial! Enjoy! If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask me! ^.^

My other tutorial 'Sculpting Process' : [link]