deviantART: Popular Eyeball Tutorials

Semi-realistic + anime Eye Tutorial and References

Fri, 01 Jun 2012 12:08:31 PDT

Reblog on my Tumblr

I've seen a lot of eye tuts on dA...at least, what seems like tutorials, but a lot of them are simply either step-by-step or just a bunch of different styles of eyes in different angles. None of them really explain how the eyes look the way it does, why the eyelids casts that shadow on the eyeballs, etc. At least, none that I've seen

I hope this gives you guys a more in-depth look to the human eye and the structure surrounding it. This actually took quite a long time, so i hope you guys like it . Rendering the eyes took a LOT longer than simply sketching them D;.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask .

here's the step-by-step put into gif so it's easier to see:

here are the skull studies I did back a few years ago:

My other tutorials:

My other works:

I put some anime eyes in the references too, hope you guys don't mind, hahaha.

ps. i put it in traditional art catagory because it's the only one with the subsection "anatomy" in it. I'm not sure why digital art can't teach anatomy either, but you'll have to ask dA about that. xD;;.

PPS: I did this in Painttool SAI

+more eye tips+

Tue, 16 Nov 2010 15:54:03 PST

Im not sure whether I touched on realism or not.

The eye lid has thickness, this means that the eyelashes dont start directly on the eye, a common mistake.

The eyelids are molded over the globe of the eye, and will follow it as it moves.

They eye lashes point outwards and down slightly then curve upward, they dont point directly up.

There is often a shine where the eye lid meets the eyeball.

If you want to make a monster eye, best to reference, or get inspiration from nature, reptile, fish or squid eyes usually do the trick.

Make sure to practice drawing eyes consistently since they can define a character.

okay i think im done with eyes now >.<

hands

lips

eyes

Tutorial: Beautiful Eyes 101

Sun, 11 Jul 2004 23:01:26 PDT

i have left this account behind, and this with it enjoy

This is a tutorial on making changing and creating BEAUTIFUL eyecolor! It is in Adobe .PDF format.
It is specially designed for Newbies - Intermediate users of Photoshop 6-CS versions. The techinique illustrated is special and i feel that even the most Advanced users of Photoshop will learn something from it. I took 3 days to make it, excuse the file size, i've included step by step Screenshots in good quality as i've went along.

How to color Anime Eyes

Sun, 05 Feb 2012 07:51:20 PST

Many people have been asking me for a tutorial, especially for the eyes... Well I am brave enough to make one for anime, not realism though, cause I'm still learning haha~

Well, hope you guys like this tutorial, if there is any mistake please tell me - so I can correct them!

Thank you very much!
Download for big, clearer, awesome view of the tutorial!

^{other useful note:
You can do vice versa on the eyeball and lashes highlights too, eyeball reflecting white light from the lashes, I always use that technique and I love the effect!
[link] [link]
(though it's not that obvious but still small details are very important to me~ haha)}

C R E D I T S

Photoshop CS5

Other tutorials?
How to draw 2 head big butt chibi (haha) = [link]
Other page (in order 1-5):

View my other tutorials in here too!
If you have tumblr, you can follow me here too for more side-tutorials, WIPs, etc of my works!

How I draw my eyes

Sat, 12 Jan 2013 01:47:18 PST

A friend asked me how I draw my eyes.

All of this is drawn with the brush tool in paint tool sai. I don't use the eraser; I use the white brush to 'erase'. This creates the paint-y effect.

I start with a black circle -pandas!- and then fill it in with a white circle again which represents the eyeball. Balls are round, so is your eyeball. Depending on where you want the eye to look, you draw the iris as a black circle.

After that's done I start shaping the eye with eyelids. Remember, eyes have various shapes. Almond, slanted, fish eye and so on. I remove the remaining black and then start shaping it.

After that I make a white circle in the iris and fill in the details. I start with the pupil and then add where the other shading goes. I then zoom in and draw small patterns in them running back and forth with a white and black brush.

My settings for the brush tool can be found here: [link]

Tutorial - Painting The Human Eye

Sun, 17 Jun 2012 14:55:42 PDT

YAY TUTORIAL TIME! <3 I had a little bit of time today while I'm waiting to see if my current commission needs to be edited or not - so this is what you get - a slapped together tutorial on painting eyeballs :3 Enjoy.

Eye References:

Note : this was done in about 15 minutes - so no, the iris didn't get a lot of attention paid to it, and I didn't go into a great amount of detail. This is mostly so people know where to start when painting eyes and what to do with the anatomy.

Tutorial - Polymer clay roses

Sat, 17 May 2008 04:22:15 PDT

I find these really easy to do, and hope this will be pretty clear. If it's not, let me know. It's my first real tutorial. This should work for any polymer clay; work the clay first until it's soft and pliable, then follow the instructions below.

1) Choose your colors. This is a sample set requested of me.

2) For mini roses (what I'm showing), you don't need a lot of clay. The American dime is pretty small; you really don't need much clay to do this. The center will be one ball, the next ring needs two (or three, if you want it a bit thicker), the third ring requires 3 or 4, depending on what you want. I've done it as 1-2-3, and rolled up the amount I'll need as shown here, with only one of the darkest pink for the center and 3 for the outer ring.

3) Flatten in an oblong shape your center ball of clay. The edge that will be the upper edge of the bloom should be flattened/stretched a bit more than the base. Make no real effort for this flattened/stretched area to be perfectly even; having it somewhat odd-edged will enhance the final bloom. Brush finger gently over the clay that will be rolled in the center until fingerprints are removed, or you will have to live with them being there.

4) Start on one short end and roll along the wide length until you have the core of the bloom rolled snugly. If you want it smaller/narrower, now is the time to roll it a bit extra between your fingers (not too hard) to thin it out.

5) Brush the tip of your finger from the center out very, very lightly along the thin lip of clay; this causes it to curl outward slightly, the way the petals should.

6) Repeat step 3; when you've removed your fingerprints from the inner edge, carefully add this side to your core piece. Make sure that the end of the center piece is either centered or not to either end of this piece.

7) Roll it between your fingers a bit so that the clay is snugly attached. Repeat step five.

8) Add the second piece of mid-color clay; I advise an eyeball centering of this one, so that the seam of the first mid-color clay is in about the center of this one. If you're doing three petals in this second step, DON'T center it, but place them more in thirds.

9) Roll it between your fingers a bit so that the clay is snugly attached.

10) Repeat step five.

11-14) Start the final ring. This goes the same as for all of the second ring of petals; space them as you see fit, but try really, really hard not to stack the seams on each row so that they line up, or your bloom will look very odd.

15) Step 5 again; this time make sure to go over all of your petal lips one final time to remove any fingerprints on them with very gentle strokes.

16) Side view; not so pretty, is it?

17) I've rolled it between my fingers (perhaps a bit much) to thin it down a bit. Now it's way too long.

18) Trim off the extra. The tail that's not being used can be saved, blended and (especially if you're doing a lot of the same blend) can be recycled for future use. I find that it usually ends up matching (or close to it) the mid-tone.

19) I use a twist of wire to spear it and bake it on. The clay used for this demo is Sculpey III; I bake it for about 3 minutes. DO NOT OVER BAKE. These burn really quickly. When cooled, I painted over it with Liquid Sculpey and baked it again for a few minutes. Liquid Sculpey appears to keep it from burning, so the length of time is a bit more flexible. I still only bake it for a few minutes, but it's more forgiving at this step. Brush on a very light coating, careful of leaving it pooled in cracks. It does NOT look attractive if you glop it on and let it fill the cracks, trust me...

If you wish to add leaves, they can still be added after this point, or if you want to add anything else to it as well. Use a spot of super glue to attach any findings to it for jewelry, or they will be able to pull out. Super glue should be the last step, after you're done with all the baking.

EDIT:

[link] *kittykitty5150 is the first one to send me a link to the finished product of using my tutorial. Thank you, *kittykitty5150!

Eye tutorial

Mon, 23 Aug 2004 15:51:02 PDT

Alright, I've been asked a few times lately about how I draw eyes and why they're so 'spooky', so here's a short tutorial explaining the underlying ideas. Normally I'd refine the whole thing much further, but for a tutorial, this should work.

Before we start: It really helps if you think about the 3d shape behind what you're drawing, and the structure. That's what references and anatomy books are great for. You can learn to repeat step-by-step tutorials of course, but they are mostly meant to illustrate application of various principles and techniques, not as ways cast in stone that you must follow. They're just a basic carcas for you to build your own ideas around.

Alright, with that out of the way, on to the tutorial.

1. Draw the basic shape of the eye. Note, how the inner corner (the one closer to the nose) is lower than the outer corner. Also keep the eye somewhat roundish, but not like a circle. Remember that the eye is a ball in the socket of the skull, and the eyelids are flexible tissues at the surface of this ball.

2. Deciding where the pupil will be. Sort of basic. Making some tiny adjustments to the outline, and marking where the eye ends at the inner corner. There's that red tissue at that place, we'll touch it up a bit later. Notice, how making this line at the inner corner curved helps to define the roundness of the eyeball.

3. Now it's getting more interesting. The arrow marks the direction of light (I picked a random one in this case). Now, note that the pupil part is like a water droplet on the eyeball - if you look at anatomy books or reference, or just look at someone sideways while they're staring at something, you'll see how it protrudes a bit from the eyeball's round surface.
So, we mark the big, famous speck of light that is reflection on the surface of the eye in the direction of light (counting from the black hole). Now, on the opposide side of the pupil, we mark a lighter region, that is hit by light that went through the transparent outer layer of the eye and didn't get lost in the black hole. Make sure to not pose that secondary reflection on a random place - put it where the light would actually go. (You find that place by drawing a line from the lightsource through the big white speck of light and through the black spot.)

4. Now we proceed to shade the eyeball itself. Shading the white part of the eye is often omitted, and causes flatness. When you shade, make sure that you figure out where those shadows are coming from, and don't just put them evenly all around. In this case, the upper eyelid is the main cause of shadow at the top and to the right, and the curved surface of the eyeball causes the less concentrated shadow at the bottom and to the left.
Important! Do NOT shade with gray, unless you're drawing the whole thing grayscale like I just did. The eyeball is a reflective surface and there's plenty of tiny tiny bloodvessels in it, so it will NEVER be gray (unless you're an alien in a gray gray world *cough*). Instead use desaturated beige or orange or red - depending on the colors of surroundings and the skin.

5. This is the final stage for this tutorial, although normally I'd be taking it further and refining it a whole lot. What happens here is mostly 'refinement', and shading of eyelids. Notice, how in 4. a small white speck appeared at the outer edge of the pupil. It is not a smudge, but a reflection. In 5., I've made this reflection brighter. I often put some at the edge of the pupil to show that the pupil shares the surface with the eyeball and they're both glistening with moisture. It makes the eye look rounder, more three-dimensional.
Notice that the eyelids got hit with some shadows and, importantly, highlights as well. The lower eyelid got a light highlight along its edge, because the light comes from above, and it has an edge that the light usually lands on. It got a shadow to the right to separate it from the eye a bit, creating the impression of eyeliner or eyelashes.
Note that at the inner corner, I put some shading and highlights at the little reddish tissue that is at the corner of the eye. It's where the tears come from. Usually it's wet, and tends to glisten. Great thing for adding detail and stressing the roundness of the eyeball.
I also hit the pupil with additional detail, because usually you see all those tiny tiny patterns going on in eyes that make them so much more interesting. I encourage you to develop them further if you're going for a detailed style or just want to give those eyes an extra punch - but remember, those patterns shouldn't be more important than the feeling of volume and depth, so make sure not to kill the shadows and highlights when drawing them.

---------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------

Note: This eye was drawn using a Trust tablet, and Corel Painter, the brush i used is Wet Detail brush 5 from Acrylics. It's not special in any way, I use it 'cause it's smooth and smudgy. Smudgyness can be adjusted or just carried out with airbrush or smudge tool. And since I've heard this one before too many times: it's not about the tablet.

Here's the same technique used with a mouse: [link]

How to paint Pearls

Tue, 23 Apr 2013 09:05:31 PDT

Hi everybody!
I've been asked to make some tutorials, so I finally got around to making this one! With this technique you can easily paint pearls, beads, marble balls, eyeballs or whatever round shiny thing you want to paint!
You can add more layers for patterns, textures, whatever you want!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Tool: PHOTOSHOP CS4

[edit] assfghgg!! Whatwhatwhat thank you so much for the DD! O______________________________________O

My other tutorials:
Tutorial about shading with greyscale-technique: Tutorial about laying basecolors onto the greyscale: Tutorial about finishing and polishing a painting:

HOW I DO MY ANIME EYES ...

Thu, 16 Dec 2004 05:59:19 PST

NOT FOR PHOTOSHOP BEGINNERS. You must already know the various tools in photoshop to be able to use this. I've already tried my best to make this as simple as possible.

STEP 1: I have a pencil sketch which I scan in. I prefer scanning in my drawing because usually the proportion is much better, and because I don't have a tablet

STEP 2: Draw the eyelid in a new layer, which I name eyelid_1. Draw the pupil outline in a layer below it, which I name eyeball.

STEP 3: I create a new layer between eyelid_1 and eyeball, and name it GLEAM. gleam depends on the source and strength of light. Here I used Gaussian blur (Filter-blur-Gaussian blur).

DO YOU KNOW? Using Gaussian blur allows for greater even-ness in the blurring compared to blurring by hand (unless you only want to blur part of the area and not the whole thing. However, you can also use the lasso tool and blur certain areas using the Gaussian blur as well.

STEP 4: I shaded the eyes. Layers from top to bottom: pupil: I used the pen tool to select and delete this, feather 3-5. Iris: Red (since I'm doing a red eye) Base: Black (not shown here)

STEP 5: I deleted and blurred part of the outline of the Iris.

STEP 6: Now ... create a new normal layer underneath the fill layers, and, using a brush/pen tool, colour the base of the eye white (or any colour you desire). Use the blur tool to blur the border so it looks more natural. I will name this eye white.

STEP 7: I duplicate the eye white layer, make it into grey, and delete part of it to create the shadow underneath the eye. I merge both layers.

STEP 8: I add in the eyelashes and double eyelids. You may skip this if you don't want to add any.

STEP 9: Using the lasso tool at feather 10-20, I select and delete part of the iris. This step can be skipped if you're pleased with the iris look in step 5.

STEP 10: OK it's finished now! There're many different styles to anime drawing, and you can ater this tutorial to suit your different needs. Once you're experienced in photoshop, you can look at a digital artwork and know how it is done.

EDIT - 27 sep 2005: I've upgraded the tutorial

Thanks for the viewing/commenting/favs!

Tutorial: Magic Perspective Guidelines

Tue, 27 Mar 2012 20:26:44 PDT

Turns out Photoshop can do it for you! It would work much better if you start with a horizon line and line up the grids with said horizon line, but either way this is much better than using line tool and having to eyeball the vanishing points.

Feature should be available on CS2 and higher, not sure about older versions.

Adobe Illustrator Eye Tutorial

Fri, 02 Sep 2005 11:52:18 PDT

I have been meaning to get a tutorial up for ages, but sadly it's been delayed because of the sheer complicatedness of it. @_@

So, I decided to stick this smaller one up for right now. How to make a jelly eyeball in Illustrator. I threw this together, so please forgive the oogliness of it. I also made this tutorial for someone who has a very basic understanding of Adobe and how their programs work, so this may not be suitable for someone who has never used Illustrator before. I tried to make it as simple as possible, but please ask questions if there's something you dont get.

Enjoy!

Illustrator 10.0

face tutorial

Tue, 18 Oct 2011 23:20:27 PDT

I get requests for tutorials on how to translate real people into more stylized but recognizable versions fairly often, so here is a very wordy/slapped together tutorial for how I study faces! Specifically for how I go about breaking up the face into simple shapes and ratios that are easy to carry over into different styles.

I used Chris Pine because I havent drawn him before, and I figured it would make the process more genuine.

EDIT: So this has been up for ages and I didn't think it needed to be said, but apparently some people are confused. This isn't saying "just trace a photo"! The tracings here are meant to show how I break the face up into different shapes. Knowing how to see the face as shapes makes it a lot more accessible and easier to portray in different styles. If you simply trace a photo instead of learning how to draw it on your own, you'll have a very hard time injecting your style and energy into it, and the end result will probably be very stiff and lack expression.

Here's a few other examples of how learning to identify shapes and relationships can help you translate faces into different styles, ranging from semi-realistic to way more stylized. And don't be afraid to stress the unique qualities and variety in individual faces!

The Hobbit dwarves: [link]
Charles and Erik from X-Men First Class as X-Men Evo cartoon characters: [link]
Some Thor studies eyeballed from references: [link]
Supernatural sketches done while watching an episode: [link]

Tutorial- Eye Expression

Wed, 04 Apr 2007 23:58:03 PDT

Just a quickie little tutorial to help people branch out and experiment with expression; not to get locked into drawing one 'style' of eyes, but end up just drawing the same shape all the time...

---------DOWNLOAD TO VIEW PLEASE---------

+ Gradient Dyeing Tutorial +

Thu, 16 Oct 2008 12:52:01 PDT

[EDIT 3] - VIDEO VERSION!! [link]

------

[EDIT 2] - sorry for some reason comments were disabled, but you have any questions feel free to ask XD

[EDIT] - Made a few more notes to help I'll HOPEFULLY have a video of gradient dyeing this summer. I'll keep every1 posted on that

GRADIENT DYEING + RIKKU SCARF TUTORIAL

This tutorial covers gradient dyeing for monotone colors or multiple colors. This is also a tutorial on how to CROCHET a Rikku scarf but sorry not for how to make the Songstress sideskirt. I just used it as an example of one color gradient dyeing.

Also, this tutorial is tailored towards using Rit dye, it is often recommended that you find a dye that matches the fibers of your fabric. I use cotton blends alot so i use Rit in that case There's dyes like Dylon and dye from the Dharma Trading Co that tailors towards silk, rayon, etc.

PS: Yuna thief blades were made by my awesome for my bday XD XD i'll be doing Thief Yuna possibly for Acen [will definitely need a warm season to wear that haha]

Rikku Scarf: Crocheting the scarf

Materials:

1 large spool of Cotton white yarn [be sure that it is cotton or wool, 100% polyester and 100% acrylic will NOT dye]
1 package Rit Golden Yellow dye
1 package Rit Tangerine dye
1 package Rit Scarlet dye
1 3 or 3.5 mm crochet hook
3 4 gallons of water
3 cups salt
1 tbsp laundry detergent
1 large trash bag

1. Ch 15, turn and sc in ea ch [do not skip 1st ch]
2. Rpt for remaining rows [youll have to keep trying it on to get the right length for yourself, just stop at your knee cap]

Fringe Take a 5 board [I used a DVD case LOL] and wrap yarn around it about 60 times
1. Cut along one side so that you have 60 10 strands.
2. Fold two strands in half and grab the loop of those strands with the hook and pull through a single chain on the scarf end.
3. Pull the strand ends through the loop and tighten off Do this for every chain [about 15]
4. Repeat for other side

*Gauge should be about 15 or 16 ch
*Use sc [single crochet]

Gradient Dyeing

I detailed this according to dyeing the Rikku scarf.. but for one color dyeing, proceed with steps 1 - 4, but instead of switching out colors, proceed to gradually work your way down the material.

*Notes:
+ Basically youll be following the instructions on the package but Ive made minor adjustments.
Use only about 1 or 1.5 gallons of water instead of 3 like the package says. This will give the dye more strength and make it more vibrant UNLESS you have a huge swatch of fabric to dye [i'd estimate 3+ yards, then use 3 gallons BUT with 2 packs of dye]. Just make sure you're using enough water for the fabric to freely move in without crowding excessively.

+ When doing multiple colors, start with the LIGHTEST color then end with the DARKEST (i.e. Yellow to Red)

+ Gradient dyeing is also an eyeballing technique, for the most part, you can gauge the look of the gradient by holding it up and looking to see if there are any harsh transitions. If you DO have a harsh transition in a lighter area, take a separate dyeing bucket and fill it with hot water and a SMALL portion of the solution in your current bucket to dilute it and then proceed to dip-dye repair the harsh area.

+ Selection of fabrics/materials: 100% cotton, linen, rayon, wool, and silk are suggested for Rit dye. Fabrics that contain at least 60% of these fibers are still dyeable however they will not be as strong. My suggestion is to do the gradient dyeing 2 or 3 times, alot of work i know. So CHOOSE wisely!

+ 100% polyester or acrylic will NOT dye!! As stated above, BLENDS of these fibers with DYEABLE fibers will give you LIGHT results. Please heed my word on this, i've made this mistake before.

+ It is EXTREMELY important to PRETREAT and POST-TREAT your fabric. Pretreating your fabric will help remove any prior stains or debris. Post-treating involves THOROUGHLY rinsing out the dye after each color [start from warm water and gradually into cold water]. You MUST MUST MUST MUST *breathes* MUST MUST do this!! Especially if you have gradient involving light and dark colors, any traces of the darker dye will rub off onto the other colors!!! It is also important that once you have done this that you wash your material to help remove any last bit traces.

+ Remember: DON'T freak out at first that the color looks tremendously dark as you're dip dyeing. When you post treat and dry it, it'll dry to a lighter tone. If you ARE looking for that strong of a color, concentrate the solution with a higher dye to water ratio but work in smaller parts of predye being added to the bucket.

PRECAUTIONS:

+ Dyeing works well when you use HOT water, so please be careful when touching your fabric or working with the dye bucket.

+ GLOVES! Dye does stain your skin, granted it comes out EVENTUALLY, but i don't ever recommend dyeing without a pair for safetys sake. I usually use a pair of wooden disposable chopsticks to do any sort of agitation to the fabric in the dye bath.

+ When REMOVING dye using the Rit Color Remover, i noticed it has a very prevailing odor that can be quite sickening, please exercise precaution!

+ Staining - should you accidentally stain ceramic/tile, i noticed bleach works wonders to get it out, however obviously if you stain clothing or carpeting, you got yourself a nice blotch So wear careless clothing.

DIRECTIONS:

1. Boil 1 or 1.5 gallons of water [Does not have to be a rolling boil, just enough so that it is hot]. I usually just fill up a large stove pot with sink water and heat that up.

2. Prepare dye in presolution as directed on package. [I use a water bottle for this just be sure to keep this separate from your actual dyeing bucket; all you basically do is pour the dye powder into the water bottle and then fill up the bottle with hot water, cap and shake to dissolve the powder, be careful when shaking if you don't tighten it off, you get a few splashes! lol]

3. Add 1 cup of salt and 1 tbsp laundry detergent to bucket.

4. Pour boiled water into bucket. *CAREFUL NOW!*

5. For the yellow, dump the entire yellow dye presolution and let the scarf soak for about 25 minutes with periodic agitation so that your fabric gets even contact with the dye. Remove from bucket and rinse THOROUGHLY.

*Repeat steps 1 - 4 for the orange and red dye. Be sure to completely rinse out the previous color from your bucket before starting the new one.

6. To get the nice gradient effect, only pour in about 1/3 or 1/4 of the orange dye presolution into the bucket and stir well. What this does is dilute the orange as you will see when you first go to dip it in.

7. *Note: the colors are about 1/3 each of the entire length, fold the scarf perfectly in half and hold the fringed side up with the other end to be dunked into the dye. Make a light mark where you want the gradient to begin, I used a pin [about 1/3 down from the fringe]

8. Dip the scarf to the farthest point you want the orange to start two or three times [take your time, don't rapidly dunk and yank it out LOL], afterwards dunk about 1 2 away from the last point you dunked, dipping about 2 or 3 times at the same spot. Proceed for a few more inches.

9. Lay out a large flat trash bag next to your bucket and CAREFULLY set the fabric on it making sure to keep the gradient end away from the lighter ends. Add another 1/3 or 1/4 of the dye presolution, stir, and continue from where you left off. Do not dunk from the very beginning of where you started!!!

10. Continue this process of adding the presolution in small parts while stirring and dip dyeing. Add the rest of the dye and finish the gradient.

11. Lay the scarf out on a trash bag to allow it to sit for about 25 minutes. Then rinse scarf out THOROUGHLY. **Avoid rinsing dye out near the yellow to avoid any staining)

12. Repeat for the scarlet dye from the bold end of the orange.

13. To check if you have washed your dye out during post treatment, the water should run clear or nearly clear [and i mean VERY CLOSE to clear]. Once this is verified, wash it normally and there you go!

Hope this helps

IJ 4 Painting Tutorial

Sat, 25 Oct 2008 04:31:08 PDT

Indiana Jones Painting Tutorial.
(Download the image for full 1103pix X 2500pix resolution)

Early this year I was charged with a commission to design and produce a limited edition release poster for Indiana Jones 4. I commenced work well before the details of the movie had been released and like almost all the people working within the LucasFilm/Indy machine, I was not privy to all the plot details especially the characters and their relationships. Even the name of the movie at that stage was unknown and more importantly, the existence of the crystal skull was considered top secret.

I decided to keep my layout simple devoid of most characters -because I knew that the brilliant Drew Struzan, would be working them all into his two poster interpretations. At that stage the relationship between Indy and Mutt was also unconfirmed, but I was strongly of the opinion that they would turn out to be father and son, so I concentrated on their mentor and student relationship for the composition. In confidence, I DID know of the existence of the skull but knowing that it was especially secret, I opted to include it in a way that was more abstract rather than literal.

I wanted to create an uncluttered piece that paid homage to the simplicity of Richard Amsels original Raiders poster. The challenge was to source a good reference image of Harrison from LucasFilm where he didnt look TOO haggard the result was a hi-res but slightly soft shot of him that captured the heroic expression I was looking for..

Top three images:
After working through a number of rough concepts, I put down the final layout on sheet of acid free paper, working in pencil. I felt the composition would benefit from the inclusion of a Mayan style motif and the circular carvings worked well for the intimacy of my composition.

I prefer to work on MDF board because, not only is it a firm base, but I really like its inherent color especially when varnished. Using a piece roughly 34 x 25 inches in size I transferred the layout to the board using traditional pencil. The next step was to lay down a wash of general color that would assist me in determining the deeper tones and the underpainted variations.

I chose to use a very limited pallet of colors for this piece (see the list at the foot of this tutorial) and I use Acrylics by choice.

Second line images:
I dislike a clean surface to paint on and in an attempt to drop in a little texture, I liberally splashed the surface of the entire board with drops of watered down paint. NB. I tend to do this only AFTER I have laid out the underpaint because if you do it earlier its almost impossible to see the pencil line work through the spots.

Using a combination of colors from my limited pallet, I started working on Harrisons face, his chest and his shirt laying down the initial paint application as a wash. Working with progressively thicker paint, I also worked on his hat so that I could pull Harrisons face out of the composition.

Third line images:
I continued to lay down the paint in progressively thicker layers and I also started to work colored pencil lines into the painting - to enhance some areas of color and to define edges of some shapes. I use a combination of Prisma Color, Faber Castell and Derwent pencils for this. I briefly considered including highlights on his eyeballs (left hand image), but ultimately decided against doing so because in my mind it looked wrong. I felt that Ford's likeness was "off" so I reworked his face again and in order to balance the layout, I worked on the skull and the light areas around Mutts face. I also added flames around the side of Indys head.

Fourth line images:
I was really struggling with Fords likeness at this stage so I slightly altered his right hand cheek to get the light to fall properly. His nose, I made a little more lopsided and I reworked his eyes extensively. I changed the flames because the first attempt looked like I had stolen them from the side of a Pontiac Firebird. Shia le Bouffs face was coming together but I kept it smoother and less cluttered than the rugged treatment of Fords.

Finally, I enhanced the red and yellow at the bottom of the composition to lift the Soviet symbol and to bring weight to the bottom of the painting all the while, I continued to work over the entire surface with colored pencils to create the looseness and energy I prefer to employ on my work.

Bottom Line:
The finished painting was finally varnished and scanned and Photoshop was used to clean up the edges and to lay in the Logo and text.

Go here for a high resolution version of the final poster [link]

Paint colors used:
Ultramarine Blue, Titanium White, Carbon Black, Cadmium Yellow Medium, Napthol Crimson, Cadmium Scarlet

Pencil colors used:

Ultramarine, Kingfisher Blue, Light Blue, Indigo, Dark Flesh, Deco Peach, Venetian Red, Poppy Red, Terracotta, Golden Brown, Burnt Umber, Black, White

homestuck sewing pattern

Thu, 17 Mar 2011 17:58:47 PDT

Okay, here's the pattern for armless Homestuck characters. Download to view full size and print it out on normal printer paper.

The seam allowance is a little bit less than 1/8" on most pieces. It's a little bit larger on the head because I forgot to make it smaller, but it doesn't really matter. Just eyeball it.

I use doe suede for the fabric, but you can use whatever you want. Doe suede is best because it's thin and doesn't fray.

I print the faces out on iron-on printer fabric after drawing them in Photoshop. The symbols on their shirts can be done using this method as well.

You can cut two more head pieces out of the character's hair color and sew them together to fit over the back of the head. Just cut off the pointy ends on the bottom before sewing. Then felt is best for the rest of the hair. Hot glue it on, but make sure to do it neatly.

The horns for trolls can be done with either felt or clay.

You can see a Karkat I made with this pattern here: [link] and if you have any questions or problems, ask!

Also, please don't sell things you make using this pattern. Thanks!

edit: I've changed the body pattern so it's more accurate. The clothes and hair patterns I used for Gamzee, Jade, Karkat, and Kanaya are in my scraps, here: [link]

The tutorial for Gamzee will hopefully be uploaded tomorrow.

Eyeball vector Tutorial

Fri, 17 Oct 2008 16:49:21 PDT

oh yeah forgot to tell you the tutorial is focused on the eyeball, not on the overall EYES

as you can see i don't even made the eyelashes

and i don't know if other software such as FH or CD have the same tool, but i made this on AI

i hope it'll help you, the tutorial maybe jumpy a little bit, so if there's any questions, just ask

Painting the Eye

Sun, 03 Feb 2008 12:57:25 PST

I put this together this morning, intending, originally to post it on my blog, but I think it's better laid out this way. Which means I get to upload it here, so people can download it full size.

Please DO NOT repost this on other sites, redistribute it, etc. You may, however, link to it to your hearts content.

Provided, that is, you find it informative.

I painted this in Corel Painter, however, it should work just as well in Photoshop or whatever paint program you have, provided it works with layers and layer settings.

Please be aware: I paint eyes so often that it's like breathing for me. Sometimes I do things without even being aware that I've done it or how I did it... I tried to break everything down as simply as possible for this, but if you need clarification, don't hesitate to ask.

Eyeball model: me (image isn't stock) [link]

Painter Tool Sai Eye Tutorial

Tue, 16 Aug 2011 13:29:56 PDT

This tutorial is my first. go easy on me. I am not the best artist in the world i did this because i want to help those who have asked
Any advice you have on how to do a better tutorial next time let me know.

All this was done in Painter Tool Sai

Step Instruction
1. Organic shapes are difficult when starting out so lets start with a simple basic shape. First draw a circle.
2. Create a new layer for the linework. Were going to use the brush tool for this. Draw a triangle like shape going across with the top point to the right middle of the circle.
3. I like a sultry eye with a heavy lid so lets draw that next. Now since we drew the circle we have a reference path. Draw the lid at a high point and follow down the tip of the eyeball. Next dont forget the lower lid. And go ahead and draw the brow, I like a good arc :3
4. Lets draw the iris and pupil.
5. Now making the blend level of the brush to sixty, color around the eye picking up multiple times. By picking up I mean pick up your pen. This will help control how much of the black line you pick up to blend with the skin tone youve chosen.
6. We re going to do the same thing for the eye color. Now using a grey draw in the white part of the eye. A big mistake that I used to do and I see other people do is leaving this part just plain white. It makes the eye look flat and takes a lot of life away. Dont worry if it looks too dark itll be fine I promise.
7. And the same thing with the water line. Thats the flesh line on the lower lid.
8. Now its time to put any secondary color into the eye. I chose a green base so im putting in a little brown to make it look more hazel. For brown I suggest a cherry red or honey, and for blue I suggest a grey. Once youre done put in the pupil.
9. Using black lets re-outline the eye add a little lash and I used it for the brow as well. Now remember if youre drawing a person with lighter hair, the brow is a shade darker. It looks weird when brows are exactly the same color as the hair.
10. Detailing the eye, using a darker shade of the first color and a lighter shade of the second color of the eye, draw lines rotating around the pupil.
11. Now make a new layer so we can put the light in the eyes. This is my favorite part because I find it so beautiful the way eyes capture light. I know its cheesy but still.
12. Next were going to lightly blend the light. This makes it romantic. Its ok to keep the edges sharp if you want, since the eye is reflective it catches light in shapes.
13. Next lets blend the heck out of the skin. Make it soft and purrrrrrdy.
14. Now go back and add the lashes, hair on the brow and deepen the lines on the lids. And thats it! Thats how I draw eyes :3
Hope this helped!

Demon Eyes Tutorial

Tue, 30 Sep 2008 18:35:56 PDT

My first tutorial coz people kept asking how I photoshop eyes... Sorry its a bit long. I wasnt sure what to cover.

This is for Photoshop CS2

Eyeball stock: [link]

Guide: 'Free/Fair use' image settings on Google

Thu, 02 May 2013 04:40:25 PDT

The title says 'free/fair use' due to the letter limit but in reality it's more like 'images permitted free to use, share or modify, even commercially' according to Google's settings.
This guide kind of explains itself really... So I don't think I need say anything here really other than sorry for the typos and terrible organization in this tutorial/guide.
('Poosters'... epic typo wow...)

Oh! Since I know a lot of people use Google and such for their main source of reference material I chose a search engine but dA here has some excellent stock image accounts with tons of wonderful photos! Of course, all of them may have different terms of usage but there's many many out there on this site. Look up what you're looking for on here and you may find it!
For stock photo account users, feel free to place a small ad here showing your stock accounts so people can find them and see if need be.

I would like to reiterate that this IS the internet and as such no matter what site you use for find images there's almost always a risk that there may be stolen images there that people uploaded from someone else and just say it's 'free to use'.
If you are worried do a reverse image search or if you can, find the original source of the image. It can be difficult, yes, but not impossible.
Still, use your own judgement as well, if you don't feel right using a photo as reference then don't. But remember this is for reference or training material, not manipulations, tracings, or bases. Referencing means basically eyeballing or using the image as a visual guide.
There will always be that risk of making a mistake and using a photo that may not be allowed but chances are the person who owns it isn't looking for everyone who references their image, they more or less look for people taking and claiming their work.
You can't be 100% sure all the time that people aren't lying about 'free' things but in the end if you give credit and a link if you can you are not violating copyrights if the image was marked as 'free use' or 'fair use' under a direct search with those settings. Don't beat yourself up if you make a mistake and someone comes to you saying they don't allow people to use their stock photos for reference. Apologize and ask what the artist/person would like for you to do and explain to them how you found it and then they can take up their claim with the hosting site.
Hope this clears that end of it up a bit. I mean honestly someone shouldn't have to put so many disclaimers on something but someone will come up and give every reason in the book why telling people about this option is wrong when in reality it's not. It's a setting that's standard on Google.com's image search and anyone can do it. If it was illegal or not allowed they wouldn't have it, logical right?
Not trying to be snippy, just trying to cover as many politically correct bases as I can

**Please note: This is not a tutorial on how to steal images that are 'free use'. In no way do I condone the taking and uploading of other people's photos, not even if they allow it to a degree. If you're looking to do that then you pay the consequences for your actions.
For a time I had trouble rooting out stock images from copyrighted 'DO NOT USE' ones on Google until I dug around a bit and found this setting here that helps a lot to find valid stock images and free use images through Google.
Most search engines have some kind of similar setting but please remember that you reference at your own discretion and if someone who owns and image you referenced or used comes to you and asks you to remove your image then you should comply or try to work out some kind of agreement where both parties are happy and able to keep neutrality.
Just because it says it's free to use or free use you still have to understand that the photo you are using will belong to someone who may one day find your drawing and the resemblance. They may not like it and they may get mad about it, but again try to be understanding and compliant. People can change policies but usually they don't and many are really understanding and even happy when someone uses their stock photos (so long as if they can find them they tell them at some point sooner than later).

_{Remember: Referencing is a GOOD thing. When you are unsure look up reference and do research if you are curious to know or get something right. Don't ever let someone tell you referencing is a cheater's tool, that it makes you less of an artist. The Pros do it all the time and so can you. It helps you learn and helps improve your work and allows growth as an artist.}

eye coloring in psd tutorial

Sat, 10 Jun 2006 20:07:43 PDT

(this is a animated gif movie!, so CLICK FULL VIEW TO SEE IT!)
new method i started using to color eyeballs in photoshop.

Degree of difficulty: intermediate
Estimate time to do: 5 minutes
Tablet used for this tutorial: Wacom Intuos 2
(I used adobe photoshop CS1, but it should work w/ version 7 and up)

i wont explain it step by step cuz im lazy, but heres a short breakdown:

sketch> refine sketch> lineart> base color > shadows (use psd swiggly star brush to save time!)> highlight > add secondary color shadwo> highlight again > add sheen with white (20% opacity) > add specular highlight (that bright white dot!) > add a 'glow' to the overall eyeball on "screen" layer attribute> done!

any questions?

Eye Tutorial

Thu, 13 Nov 2008 05:44:21 PST

Okay, so a few people were asking for a tutorial on how to draw/ colour eyes. I'm not saying that this is the only way to do it, it's just the way I do it

There are a couple of things that I haven't mentioned in the tutorial...
1. The shape of the eye can differ, it just depends on the angle, and the style you are drawing in
2. The reflected lights on the eyes change position depending on the light source in the overall image

I hope this helps somebody! XD

Drawing Realistic Heads - A Guide

Tue, 07 Aug 2012 09:42:22 PDT

Since I promised *Lozey some drawing tips, so I figured that I'll go ahead and make a little tutorial for everyone about how I go about drawing heads that aren't cartoons.

This is more the long way I go about doing things. Unless I'm doing a weird angle or having trouble getting a likeness of someone, I'll generally skip mapping out the planes, drawing the eyeball, the mouth muscles, and occasionally the volumetric forms of the nose. It's by no means the only way to draw things. This is just how I go about drawing faces. Hopefully it'll be of some use for you!

No matter what you draw - realism, abstract, anime, or cartoons - it's important to know at least a little anatomy and how to draw the human figure. Having a solid understanding of the basics will help you have a solid drawing, regardless of where you go stylistically.

Drawing and Inking a Picture - a Guide

How I draw female eyes

Fri, 09 May 2008 16:48:20 PDT

Nothing much to explain. This is how I draw eyes for female characters. One of Tri's eyes (my character) is there (the one that I've demonstrated as an example).
They've all been Pygmyink-lized. So they're not much anime/manga-ish/que.

There'll be more bitches' eyes later. Workin' on it. I only show you how I draw them - doesn't mean you can take advantage of stealing it!! This is a stylish eye. You and even I SHOULD learn the realistic eye(s) first before taking a big leap to draw stylish eye(s)!!

I don't like empty spaces, but I became a bit lazy to fill all the pages with eyeballs ¬_¬.

So...this is my shitty first tutorial ever. T_T. Totally bullcrap.
Enjoy. I'll (not) color it. Maybe do it on Photoshop. .
PS. I've bad handwriting.

Eye Tutorial What the heck

Fri, 17 Jun 2011 12:50:19 PDT

Here's a little step-by-step painting an eye, I hope it's useful
Enjoy!

Here's the end result:

Anatomy Part 1: Form and Function

Tue, 04 Sep 2012 09:17:01 PDT

(Please forgive the unholy size of this tutorial)

Part 1 - Form & Function: [link]
Part 2 - Proportions: ---
Part 3 - Face & Feeling: ---
Part 4 - Action & Interaction: ---

_________________________________

Now assuming you kids don't bleed from the eyeballs while reading this wall of text, here's a long-awaited tutorial about anatomy... or at least what I think I know about it. I feel kind of unworthy to be the person making it since I've never been to art school and drawing is just a self-employed hobby of mine. I don't pretend to be a master of the arts.

However! Since I've been asked a many times before, and just recently, I finally decided to buckle down and make some form of coherent "notes" over what I do know. I hope this series helps you guys more than it confuses. I would hate to confuse you all. And just for the record, here's some other EXCELLENT tutorials not made by me that probably explain the subject a lot better than I ever could (and from probably more professional artists than myself)

Fellas Tutorial and Ladies Tutorial by `alexds1

Drawing Children by *toerning

Dorf Drawing Guide by *aimo

Plush Eye Tutorial

Sun, 26 Oct 2008 20:42:40 PDT

This is how I make eyes for plushes.

You may use this tutorial on items for yourself, as gifts, or to sell.

You can use this tutorial for ANY paint program, from MS Paint to professional Photoshop programs.

If you are looking for a program, I use Ultimate Paint. It is free for download and easy to use. It can be found here: [link]

Simple Toning in Photoshop

Sun, 01 Jul 2007 06:48:10 PDT

A lot of people have asked me how I tone my manga comics. Well, here I've demonstrated the basics. Hope it helps! ^___^

AND NOW I WILL STOP SPAMMING YOUR INBOXES! 8D

PS. I don't apologise for any mistakes/typos. My eyeballs feel like they're made of lead XD;

Perspective Rendering Tutorial

Sat, 16 Jun 2007 14:11:10 PDT

Here's that perspective demo I've been promising for far too long. I feel a little odd presenting such a thing, as there are people who are better at it and have better presented their techniques.

I just want everyone reading this to know that perspective is a craft. It's learned both by the mind and by reflex. It's not magic, you can do this. This only real trick is that if you practice enough that you can eyeball minor stuff and things really speed up. Just keep practicing.

If you can spare $40, buy this DVD it's great: [link]

Clay head tutorial, sorta

Fri, 21 Jan 2011 15:52:13 PST

When I originally submitted the werewolf doll, someone had asked how I attached the clay head. I'm terrible at explaining things when I can't just show someone IRL - I hope this helps!

For reference, here is a progress shot of the doll's head prior to baking the clay: [link]
You certainly don't have to make the creature's head with coloured clay, you can always paint all of it after baking.

(TOP VIEW)
Leave a stump beyond the face or head, which will later be embedded in fabric. Or a bit of an edge, whatever. Poke a bunch of holes in this before baking - if you prefer, stick a whole bunch of sewing needles in it, and leave them in while it bakes. They'll be easy to pull out after baking the Sculpey.
I don't know how this would work with any other clay, as some shrink while curing...

I'd also recommend forming the 'core' of the head out of tinfoil or paper or something, so it's not TOO heavy.

(MIDDLE)
Now, where I attach the clay face to the fabric body, I leave a sort of tube of fabric - I cut it much longer than I know I'm going to need. Settle the head about where you like it, and whip-stitch the fabric to the holes you poked in the base! Make it nice and tight.
Faux fur is recommended, as the fur pile - even short ones - is more forgiving. The fabric may pucker a little, or show the stitches, but it'll be hidden in fur pile. C:

(BOTTOM)
Then I use a super sharp razor, and just sort of eyeball and cut the fabric to where I want it to 'end' at the clay face. Then glue those flaps down! Go slow and careful. I take a needle and gently poke the very edges of the fabric under, so cut edges don't show at all...
You may also have wanted to stipple the clay head stump everywhere it will be covered by fabric; just poke or scratch at it with a needle. This will give some texture for glue to stick to.

For glue, you can use whatever you like. I recommend E6000, Gorilla Super Glue, or any polyurethane glue, as I know they all stick very well to polymer clay.
Tacky glue will also work, but it seems to take FOREVER to dry, and it's easy to bump it accidentally and shift everything out of place. You could also use Krazy glue, but I find it sets TOO fast before you can get everything just right.

If this helps anyone, please share pictures! C:

Shnazzy Eye Walkthrough

Sun, 27 May 2007 16:39:15 PDT

First ever "tutorial" thingy from yours truly! This is from a pic I'm working on for *equinephoto of her old pony, Rocky. I'm really pleased with myself for remembering to save steps along the way, bc I think the eye turned out better than usual! Huzzah!

Right, so I hope the written portion doesn't sound like I'm talking down to anyone. Rather than assuming everyone knows the anatomy of an eyeball, I explain things as if they don't. I figure it's better for those that DO know to hear it again so that those who don't can learn it, if that makes sense. But I'm certainly not assuming I have any sort of leg up on anyone!

Anyway, I'm no pro, and I'm no doctor, but these are some of the things I've picked up along the way.

Used:
Painter 8
Intuos Wacom Tablet

Edit: Damn! I knew I'd find a spelling error. In step 11, it's "outer" not "outter" If only PSP7 had spell check in its text box!

Teaching yourself to draw [Part 1: Stylizing]

Thu, 27 Sep 2012 19:46:01 PDT

There are too many tutorials that teach you how to draw an eyeball or whatever. Why not teach you how to teach yourself? And thus was this tutorial series born!
________________________________________________________________________

If you have another sketch example, tell me and I'll include it if it's the kind I need.

[there's nowhere forward or back to go yet, alas. Maybe next time?]

P-51's simple cloud tutorial

Sat, 08 Jan 2005 06:20:20 PST

Well here it is, I finally got off my lazy bum and created a tutorial for everyone. It should be easy enough to follow, and open to interpretation. For those that don't know, this guideline is based off my technique for my latest painting P-51 5nt [link] The cloud progression is at 100% size to make it easier to eyeball. I hope this helps you on your way to more realistic clouds. this if you wish.

And as a small favor to me, if this tutorial helps you for a piece... It be a nice token to link back to this or my page.
Enjoy!

Eye Tutorial

Fri, 19 Jun 2009 16:16:09 PDT

A tutorial!!! I was bored this afternoon, I love to draw eyes, and I like helping people out..... So..... here ya go!! I copied and pasted the eye I just finished to do the next eye for each of those. Basically, they're all based off of one another I got a little anal with the grid formation, though!! lol

I made this with Photoshop CS4, but I believe this could help anyone who wants to make a realistic looking eye!

Enjoy and let me know if it helps you at all!!

Spring 2009

Anime Coloring Process

Tue, 05 Jan 2010 20:32:40 PST

Here's how I color/ a mini tutorial.

I use gimp 2.6.

1- lineart I don't own a working scanner so I either do lines digitally or draw on paper and take a picture of it. To get rid of the white in a lineart go to Layer>Transparencey>Color to Alpha.

2- Base colors Use the selection tool for large areas and fill with color. You will probably have to go in with the paint brush and hand color around the edges. If you don't you'll have clear pixels which can make a good picture look horrible (check out my earlier works as an example lol.) Now is a good time to figure out what kind of colors you're going to use. It also helps if you already have a background in mind. I always Lock all of my layers so I can shade and highlight them without having to select anything.

3,4,5,6-Shading First, pick a direction your light is coming from. Keep this in mind as you shade. When choosing a color to shade with, you don't have to use the exact same hue! On the dress I used a darker but slightly more purple color. Experiment! Here is a good tut for color theory [link] I use the path tool to make a selection of an area that need shading, then paint it in with the darker color. Then, blur some areas and keep others hard. Also you can use the smudge tool to lengthen some shadows.

7-Highlights When choosing your highlight color, think about what kind of light is in your picture. Don't just use white! I chose a yellow color because I wanted a sunny feeling. Again, I use the path tool to select, color, and blend. Don't go too overboard on this stage or you might "shiny kawaii desu" someone's eyes out.

8-Eyes There are so many possibilities with eyes!! I can't even begin to explaing them all. But here's how I did them for this picture. I used the dodge tool to put in some light under where the pupil is "dodge>highlights". Then I used a darker color for shading on the top under the eyelid. Then, for the pupil I drew a "U" shape with the burn tool "burn>shadows."
The white highlights are drawn on a layer above the lines. Remember to put them in the direction the light is coming from. For the white part of the eyeball DON'T use pure white. I used a light gray with a slightly darker bluish gray for the shading. Here's a tutorial just dealing with eyes [link]

9-Hair strands With a small hard brush, draw in where the strands will be. You can also use the path tool if you want to be accurate.

10-Overall shading If your strands are a bit messy you can use the blur tool or gaussian blur to soften them up. Then using a large soft brush set on a low opacity shade where you need to. Remember, the head is a sphere!

11-Highlights and Smudge Again, using a small brush put in strands of lighter hair. Smude areas if you need to.

12-Moar shading! You don't have to do this but I did for a little more dramatic look. I especially paid attention to the tips of the hair.

13-Final Touches I added blush to the lips and cheeks using a large soft brush with small highlights for cuteness :3 On the hair I use the dodge tool to create a shine on the bangs.

14-Coloring the Lines Your layer must be locked to do this! You can change the colors of your lineart however you want. Some people keep them black, some always make them a certain color, others just do some lines. It all depends on your preferences!

15-Yay Complete! Put in your background and you're done. Don't you feel proud?

OK, I'm definetely not the best artist on DA but perhaps this can help someone. Maybe later on I'll make a better tut but I'm lazy right now OTL

Thanks for reading!!!

How I Paint A Face ... Again

Wed, 24 Oct 2007 19:39:34 PDT

!!DISCLAIMER!!

This is how I do it. You may do it better. This is why it is my tutorial.

I did this differently ... I didn't number the steps, just babbled while I drew. So roughly each paragraph goes with a picture?

***

Start with an embarrassingly crappy sketch. I do. Your sketches are probably better. Remember not to make it lopsided like I do. Try very hard. A lopsided sketch will misguide you. Try to get the anatomy as perfect as you can, remember your basic lessons.

Set up a brush around 16-28 pixels to these settings and click the little airbrush next to the flow. Don't mess with the flow, homie. Just lower the opacity to around 40%

Now the shading. Think of where the shadows are. Pretend there is an imaginary lamp somewhere and position it on your drawing. We start with the shadows from there.

I use a method I called "organic coloring" meaning that everything grows from everything else. Every brushstroke and color affects the rest and blends together. I used to make a color palette to the side of my drawing before painting but I find that hinders me and I stay within the limits too much.

Start with a color slightly lighter and begin forming tiny shadows that blend with your darker shadows.

Take what most would call "your base color" and begin to bridge the gaps between the shadows roughly.

Think now about the light source and how it affects the anatomy of the picture. If your light source is coming from the top as mine is now, random shadows won't appear on the cheeks and roughly none will appear anywhere but under the nose. Highlights will appear on the jutting points, like the nose, cheeks and chin.

First we shape teh nose. Pick a color darker than your first initial shadows. Form the beginnings of the nostrils. Lower the opacity from 40 to 16 or so and lightly fade it out into the first shadows. The last color you add is the darkest point that is the inside of the nostrils.

I begin to slightly hapharzadly add shadows, the only guide being my light source. This is with a 40% opacity and brush about 15-17 pixels

I start the cheeks by filling with a darker color than my "base", then pick a lighter color and give it a light swipe. Then a light color and a lighter smaller stroke and keep going until you've built up a cheek.

I add tiny light highlights with a size 30-25 brush on about 30% opacity. While I'm highlighting, I add some shine to the nose to add definition. Remember the nose is pointed so building up your highlights is pretty much the same way as you did the cheeks, peaking with a light white shine.

I start to blend the highlights and shadows and "base" together with a large brush on the same settings as previous, with gradual light strokes.

Eye times! Okay, the anatomy, roughly of the eye is like this: Dark, light, dark, light. Remember to add shadows underneath the eye, starting dark in both corners and coming together in a highlight to show where your lower lid is. Remember there is an eyeball there ... it's the same as your top eyelid. Also, on the subject of the top of the eyelid? Skin sits between your lid and your brow. Look at your own eye, the lid is not perfectly round unless the eye in widened in surprise.

With a much much smaller (9-11 pixels) I add the vague shapes of lashes. Use a high opacity on this, like 70. Also I add more shadows to the rest of the eye for definition. Remember, every stroke should affect the next so that it blends together. I also, since I have a nice complimentary color, add some shadow to the cheeks.

I draw the suggestion of eyebrows, blend the undereye lids more and add shine to the brow bone. Remember how your eyebrow sits -- right at the top of the browbone.

OMG EYE TIME. Since I am wont to screw up, I just make a new layer for this. I fill it the white space of the eyeball with a medium tan. Then, using the method on the cheeks, light, lighter, until your have the formed eyeball. I also shape the eyes and make them smaller. I ALWAYS draw my eyes too big.

Lips! The principles for lips are pretty much the same ... they protrude less, but still should be shaded as dark light dark, with the light forming in the middle. While I have the color and opacity the same, I go back and blend my nose a bit more to make it less narrow. Just blend out into the cheeks. I also form the chin, using the same dark to light to dark method.

You're probably sick of hearing this, but the forehead is the same way as the chin! Remember in art class or very beginner drawing tutorials, they teach you how to shade a ball or a sphere? Kinda the same thing.

I add eyelashes to the eye with tiny small strokes with a small 25% opacity brush. I stress this: light and small. I make the iris with small steps building up to a near black dot for the pupil. With your brush as light as possible with it still visible (perhaps 10-15 opacity) swipe a dark color underneath the eyelashes, going over the iris and ending in the corners. This is a shadow cast by the eyelids. With a near-white, add a few dots for highlights to the iris.

Now merge all your layers besides the sketch and BG. And then duplicate it. This will fill in the opacity of the entire thing, trust me. Esp. if you work light. You may need to do it a few times.

I take a hard, small brush (for better control) and erase the excess. You might want to make a duplicate of your picture in case you mess up.

My faces can get a bit too long sometimes. To fix this, I just get a lasso, feather it to 7, and lower the top half of her face, duplicate the layer to erase the hole, merge it, then blend a small bit to further erase the hole. Ahhh, don't you love the magic of Photoshop?

Here is an optional trick to make the colors pop: make a new layer, set to Overlay and brush on red around the nose, blue around the eyes and a light yellow everywhere else. I learned this from a friend.

Hair! I didn't add ears since this isn't an ear tutorial and I'm only including hair in the step so it can blend for the final step. Add ears! Or don't. Make your hair whatever you want. I gave her a Monica Lewinsky haircut. How unfortunate. I also play with the highlights on her face cause I can't get no satisfaction D:

Now above all these layers I make a color burn layer and flood fill it with am veeeeery light tan. It will bring together the colors of your face. I would say this is optional, but it works so nicely!

You can keep going, whatever, add a body/neck/background, but I am done with the face!

Hope this didn't confuse you too much! Any questions? I can answer them.

Tutorial for Face

Sun, 31 Jan 2010 01:03:08 PST

Operational:

1. Make Out line

2. You can use pen tool or pencil tool to make outlines.

3. And then, I will start making face part from the eye.

4. Use specific brush* to make an eyelid.
(* check out hair tutorial [link])

5. Make some layers to make the eyeball became more apparent. Set the transparency and the opacity as you like.

6. Make shading inside the eye.

7. Make three layers eye brow or as much as you like.

8. Make a simple shape for a nose hole.

9. And then make a lip line.

10. Behind the lip line add one layer lip shape.

11. Then make more layers to become more apparent. Add dark color and light color, don't forget to use transparency.

12. Fill the face with skin color.

13. Make shading based on the real picture. Use skin color then change the transparency into "Multiply" and lower the opacity as you like.
Here I use the "Blur Effect" for shading. Click "Effect" on Menu Command, and choose "Gaussian Blur" on Blur menu. There you can set the Radius of Blur as you like. (I use 1 px for shading).

14. Add more layers with darker color depending on the lighting.

15. Add light color shading to give the 3D impression on forehead, nose and cheek.

16. Now we finish with the face. Use this shading style for other part too.

If there any question, please don't hesitate to ask me.
Good luck then!!!(^_^)v

Program: Adobe Illustrator 10

(Note: I don't use Adobe Illustrator CS 'cos I think Adobe Illustrator 10 is more convenient to use. ^^)

XNALara tutorial - Shine

Sat, 02 Jan 2010 05:26:02 PST

GeMeshAsciiToBin download - [link]

FAQ
Lara's eyes are black! WTF?!
Go in the .mesh.ascii and find eyeballs. Got it? Then delete the whole line _eyeball and leave it blank.
[link] picture tutorial by $AtlantiB$

Why do I have to use Ge MeshAsciiToBin insted of MeshAsciiToBin?
Well I don't really know the difference between those, but the thing is that GeMesh works for me and Mesh doesn't.

The file I downloaded includes some other file - GeMeshBinToAscii.
Yes, but you don't need it do this effect, so ignore it.

When I open the Generec_Item.mesh.ascii file and find "suit", there are no numbers next to it!
You have to press F11 to export the file. If this happend to you, then you exported it in XNALara - File > Export selected as .mesh.ascii. DON'T DO THAT. Use F11 only.

Where did you get all the models shown in the tutorial?
The wetsuit is exported from TRU by Dusan [link] . The bikini model is by Navid, go find it in the modding section in TRF and don't be lazy. The rest are mods by me.

What is XNALara and where can I get it?
[link]

Do I need the game to do things in XNALara?
No.

Will you make more tutorials? On effects and Photoshopping and stuff?
Yes, why not. But I need to know what you want to see, so write me a comment or whatever.

Scar Tutorial

Thu, 02 Oct 2008 09:04:17 PDT

Needless to say that I have had some notes requesting this tutorial along with a few others. I hope it makes sense since I eyeball EVERYTHING in my art and I mean everything.

Eyeball Tutorial

Sat, 10 Jan 2009 15:28:03 PST

This will be on my secret website.

Gimp eye tutorial: Part one

Mon, 15 Aug 2011 15:17:17 PDT

EDIT 2. One. Thousand. Freaking. View. Oh. My. God. THANK YOU SO MUCH TO EVERYONE!!!!
EDIT! Thanks for all the favs!!!!

Part 2: [link]

Oh. My. God. this took FOREVER to make!!! & its only part one!!!! i really wanted to make a tutorial though this took me about 4 hours to make

well here's part one to eye manipulations in GIMP. hope you like it!!

Stock image: .... ermmm i know i said ALWAYS credit stock image.. but i can't find when i found this, i remember that it was free to use, but i cant find the page where i saw it...

How to Draw Pokemon Style pt 1

Thu, 17 Feb 2011 23:50:47 PST

I heavily suggest downloading this, since I designed it to be downloaded. The second part of this, explaining how to draw May, Dawn, Brock, and Gary, will be out sometime soon.

Something I forgot: put a space of two eyeballs between the eyes. I thought it was one, but I was going off of human proportions--I've been corrected to two. For those who aren't so big on a grid format, you can look at this image, provided very kindly by , for help in feature placement. This will be taken into consideration when I do the second page, so there'll probably be more information about eye placement and all that when Part 2 is up.

Please note: this is by far NOT the only way to draw an anime face. However, this is how I would draw an anime face, which is why I wrote it. I designed this for beginners so they could get a sense of proportion and then explore their own style from there. If the grid format is not for you, awesome! I, however, do actually use it in every drawing I make (yes, even the chibis had their faces quartered), so I feel it's the most useful way for any beginner to learn how to draw a face. I hope everyone finds it helpful...and if it isn't, I'm sorry about that. Please let me know how to improve.

Glowing Eyes Tutorial

Mon, 02 Jan 2012 12:22:31 PST

How I make glowing eyeballs. Used particularly for Both elf races, the Draenei, dragon people, deathknights, and a score of other characters from wow.

I also used this for both possessed and holy characters... >_>

" Step1 Draw an eyeball

Step2 make 'dat shit glow! "

.... Ill be quiet now...

Tutorials Kill Me: EYEBALLS

Tue, 12 Jan 2010 15:04:36 PST

Da dan!

Yay. I've had people mention eyes being difficult, and even my bf mentioned how he likes eyes done. Well, this is the first part of a two-part thing I'm intending. I hope to do a second tutorial, but for big, generic eyes. They are, regrettably, more difficult than normal eyes.

So yes, on with the other stuff. Read through and below are the (@AC) bits.

(@AC):

1. Until you're used to complementary colors and such, use a neutral color. Once you're ready, you can try using a red base for a yellow eye or vice versa, or a brown base for a green eye. But only when you're ready for lots of trial and error...

3. Same here. You can use any color, really, depending on your base color. Keep this U of light a vibrant color, however, because if this is gray, the whole eye in the end will look grayish.

4. Same as 3.

9. You don't have to do a weird squiggle like I did. I usually do a ring of light, or something. This light is squiggly to suggest the lines and rings in your own eye; the lines and rings that make your eye unique to you, no matter the color. This step really defines your style.

Taking requests for more tutorials. If I have time, but it's nice to know what you'd all like to learn. I love to help.

Hope you enjoy, this thing took me a little to whip up but it wasn't too bad.

Love,
Geek.

How to Draw Pretty Eyes

Fri, 07 Jan 2011 03:07:23 PST

I am doing the coloring for postponed art now so please wait!
Many of my friends ask how I draw these kind of eyes, one with colored eyelashes ^^ so I post how to draw it... sorry if I didn't make myself clear enough. I never make a tutorial before! And when I teach someone to draw or Photoshop they tend to forgot in 1, 2, 3... well... I am definitely not a teacher material
Feel free to ask!

PROP MAKING - Skull Shooter

Wed, 13 Apr 2011 01:00:12 PDT

Hillo...! I thought I'd go ahead and post a step-by-step of how I turned this into the real deal. ;D

I did as much photo-documentation as I could, but rrrgh, I still missed a lot of key steps along the way. >_0

One thing I didn't show was how I packed on the sculpey gradually, in clumps. Here's another tip: RUB VASELINE ON THE BUCK first; sculpey likes to stick to that. Also, I waxed the pipes so they could be removed without warping the sculpey (pre-baking).

Here's basically what a miter looks like (though the ones I use are made mostly of cheap, expendable MDF wood so you can run 'em through the saw without worrying about sparks ^~ )

Also, I should have mentioned the "spinal column" went on a lathe for a bit to get those slight ridges, before I cut slots out of them.

Also-also, I didn't show how the "jaw" was made; THAT took a lot of time and heavy machine-work to press it down, then bend the angles and trim the excess. I ultimately needed a real pro working at the model construction shop to finagle it and, um... it didn't feel right to snap photos of him as he worked on it (as a favor no less). ¦P;;;

Fff yeah, and I never did finish the grappling line + harpoon. Guh, gotta move on to other stufff.

And I definitely wanted to stress the importance of orthographics + building a buck for the sculpey; IT'S ALL ABOUT MAINTAINING SYMMETRY. Just packing clay together and hoping you can eyeball symmetry is one of those things only one in a million people can do (and chances are you ain't that one. >¦Ð

EDIT: fixed a stupid little typo that I finally caught... |P

And of course, thanks for checking this out.

Easy Tutorial: Eyes

Mon, 17 Sep 2012 15:31:54 PDT

I'm not a great drawer and this is just one way I draw eyes. This is a super quick way and I usually draw eyes like this when I'm lazy and the eyes aren't really important for the drawing. :-D I know this eye is not relly realistic, I didn't try to make it photorealistic. I hope you like this little tutorial!

Don't look at the eyebrow, I just added it for some reason. This is Bill Kaulitz's eye so I'm ofc going to add some black eyeliner and eyeshadow haha. :'D

1. I just sketched a basic eye-shape.

2. I added a pupil and an iris. And a crease and you know the little thing on the inner corner of the eye, I don't know what it's called. :'D

3. I added eyelashes, some guidelines for makeup (this eye will have a pretty heavy black makeup around it haha).

4. I outlined the eye (if you are drawing someone's eye who doesn't wear eyeliner on their waterline don't do this :'D). I also colored the pupil black. I used a black marker.

5. I colored the iris with two brown markers (dark brown and lighter brown) and one black marker. I used the black one for the top of the iris (the darkest shadow is there because of the upper eyelid).

6. I just used a black marker to make darker lines (again if you are drawing someone's eye who doesn't wear a lot of black make-up don't do this). And I colored that little thing on the inner corner of the eye with a pale pink coloured pencil.

7. I just added some black make-up... I used black and grey colored pencils.

8. Now it's time to add shading to the eyeball. This is very important!

9. I added eyelashes (as you can see they are pretty long, dark and covered with mascara so if you don't want the eyelashes look like these just make them shorter and lighter). I used a pen.

10. Now my favorite part! Highlights! I used a white gel pen for this.

11. Finished! (I just drew the eyebrow but this isn't about it so it doesn't really matter.)

Gosh my English is horrible, sorry. :'D

If you'd like to see more tutorials by me just let me know and I'll make them! :-D

How i draw wolves

Sun, 31 Aug 2008 17:35:05 PDT

Well this is one way i draw them XD i have many ways mostly just eyeball it but on the occation i do draw it like this ^^

well enjoy hope it helps....sorry its short but i cant really make a tutorial on how to draw fur u have to find ur own style their XD

hurm i might finished this one too XDD

First start with rough idea of what u want (green)

Then fix anatomy and add fur and eyes and nose and fix paws as well ^^ (blue)

How I paint Eyes

Tue, 15 Feb 2011 13:00:14 PST

Sweatdrop.
THE VERY HORRIBLE TUTORIAL THAT SHOULDN'T BE A TUTORIAL BECAUSE IT SUCKS 8D

Excuse bad handwriting lol;
I hope you can read it as well as my teachers from school xD....

It was first supposed to be eye doodles but pfft I decided to do this. The eye in the top left corner is the only doodle I did before the tutorial happened.

Lmfao. The title was how I paint lips >o<;;;;; Oops.

Download to see more detail in the last eyeball failureeee.

Easy Iris Tutorial

Fri, 21 Apr 2006 13:28:32 PDT

It's not the greatest looking tutorial or the most detailed but i hope it gets my method across.

Givin back.

Please let me know if this was of any help to you!

Correction: Replace the word opacity with overlay.

Sculpture Tutorial - 4

Wed, 04 Aug 2010 14:00:04 PDT

SCULPTURE TUTORIAL - part 4

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
EYES

Now we get to the eyes. First add some clay in the area, shape it into eyelids and then hollow out the eye sockets couple millimeters deep. Take white clay and carefully stuff it inside. It has to be shaped carefully to create the illusion of smooth round eyeball. Do not fill the whole depth of the socket because you'll need a millimeter or two for irises.

It is very important to choose the right color for irises. Begin by finding a large photograph but before you start examining anything make sure the lighting is white (find some presumably white object in the view and check whether all three colors are in reasonable balance - most editing programs have the dropper function). Then check for balance of colors of the iris itself. The prevalently reddish tint of skin all around can play tricks on you but numbers don't lie. For example what may seem like blue eye is most likely merely a gray one. Normally eyes range from various shades of brown to slightly greenish or gray. Remember that the perceived color may be also affected by what is reflecting on the glossy surface of an eye but what need not be visible on the picture.

brown - red>green>blue
green - red=green>blue
blue - red=green=blue

Once you picked the right color take a little bit of the clay, roll it into a ball and then flatten in. Put it in the center of the eyeball and press it against it until it becomes attached. Then take some clay of slightly darker shade and apply very small amount to the rim of the iris. Scratch some lines into the clay from the rim to the center to break the flat uniformity.

When this is done take a mechanical pencil in make little hole in the center of the iris. The holes look much more realistic than black clay added on the top as pupils. It is best to partially fill the holes with black clay to hide the white foundation.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next part: [link]
Previous part: [link]

Feel free to ask, comment or offer ideas for improvement.

How to do Lineart in SAI

Mon, 20 Sep 2010 21:10:54 PDT

*Remember, you can use the eyeballs on the layer panel to check your progress!*

Coloring tutorial: [link]

requested by , a lineart tutorial for Paint tool SAI. I'm hopeful it's SOMEWHAT legible and or understandable @-@;

I'm honestly surprised more people wanted to see me use an OC for the tutorial--but I'm not complaining. Gives one of my "Elite 4" more art on here <3

Hide Nagetoshi, my Death Note OC. Will be colored in the next tutorial which I also hope I don't screw up xD

I intended to give this a background, similar to the shinigami realm, but....too complex from the back of my head |D

tutorial, artwork, and Hide Nagetoshi (c) Kirby/Me and ONLY ME. Do not copy, alter, redistribute, etc. without permission.

CRAP GOTTA GET TO BED
Dang school! D8<

Coloring tutorial: [link]

Green Eye of Envy Tutorial

Sun, 31 Jan 2010 08:45:41 PST

My first tutorial, hope someone finds it useful. If anyone has any comments about the ease (or difficulty) in following the instructions, please let me know.

I recommend viewing the tutorial at 100%.

If anyone wants to use it on another site, just credit me and link back to my DA page.

Eye Tutorial

Mon, 09 Apr 2012 20:34:58 PDT

HUGE commission for showing how I draw eyes I hope this is helpful to people!!

Tutorial-Greyscales

Fri, 29 Apr 2011 15:22:15 PDT

Tutorial of *painted-cowgirl's Greyscale

YOU DO NOT OBTAIN ANY PERMISSION TO REPOST OR CLAIM THIS TUTORIAL OR ITS CONTAINED IMAGES.

The download button was only left up for people to get closer looks at the details made. Do not abuse or I will deactivate it.

^{Okay, well this is a really quick greyscale tutorial. If you have ANY questions at all on it, please comment with them. I know the colors for this horse are a bit off, but to be honest, I like them Okay, so below is my format of layers!

-Lineart(set to multiply)
-Eyeball
-Mane
-Coat
-Background

Really simple and easy to do. For each thing with the horses color, it starts as a greyscale for that layer then advances to color after the Hue/Saturation step.

Here is the final piece here on dA:

Here is the mare's reference on dA:
Not posted yet! Will be soon!

Other

Artist's Comments: n/a
Credits and Tools of Trade:
-Lineart: Commissioned by me from ~comingsoon
--Color Reference: None
-Artwork copyright myself. You have no permission to use this except for learning to grayscale. Do not replicate this image.
--Time: Approx 1 and a half hours
-Tools: Photoshop Elements 8 with Wacom Bamboo Tablet & Pen
--Listening to: Speak Now CD by Taylor Swift}

Blender Cycles material bundle

Sat, 19 Jan 2013 07:36:17 PST

It's a bundle of materials for Blender engine Cycles.
It makes using Cycles eaiser if you want render XNALara models.
All marked on image materials are in this file.

Update:
- new materials: Handgun and Eye
- Separated bumpmapping from materials
- Textures can be easily loaded to bumps now
- Better translucency control
- Metal is more blurred to make it different from Chrome
- new materials: Carpaint, Plastic, Chrome, Glass, Tires
- updated for Blender 2.66
- fixed problem with preview rendering in view mode
- new materials: Asphalt, Bronze, Ceramic and Silk
- improved some materials
- new skin shader
- hidden model of XNA in one of layers

How to:
Simply download, open and Ctrl+U to save it as a startup setup. Your Blender will start new scenes with everything in that blend file.

Usage of materials:
1. When you have selected model, it already have some material, but no nodes for Cycles activated. So press Use nodes (it's on the right)
2. Select diffuse and choose needed group. ie. skin. it will load up and new node will apear in subwindow with nodes.
3. Move mouse to nodes subwindow and press Shift+A and choose Texture > Image texture
4. Connect as needed (diffuse to diffuse etc.)

Warnings:
- This bundle is for models exported from XNALara. They use normalmaps instead bumpmaps (but in bundle it's called bumpmap, because XNALara community uses this name for that).
- Eyeball material is transparent, glass like material. It works fine when using original TRU models (those have eyeball model around eyewhite and iris+pupil).
- If some part of model needs hair material, but be solid (not transparent, like the hair directly on head of Lara on this image - not ponytail) just don't connect anything to alpha and it will remain solid.
- If you don't know how to make minibump smaller then [link] Or use some of my minibumps [link]
- Eye material is for perfectly round eyes (like ie. from Mass Effect models). Not for modded Tomb Raider models yet.
- Contains a nodes setting for composite for blurring the noise (like when low number of samples is set). It's turned off as default.
- Asphalt don't have bumpmapping on default, use textures for realism. Really!

Tutorial may be complicated. If someone knows how to simplify it with out loosing any important info... Share your version. I'll fix my.

Eyes

Tue, 24 Jul 2012 00:05:26 PDT

Some asked if I could do a eye tutorial, so... here it is. At least a quick sketch of a tutorial ;D

edit: shit, the text of the 2nd pic on the right side is cut. It says: "If it's darker shaded than the one here, you need to add a highlight on the white part of the eyeball, it's shiny, too"

Gimp Tutorial

Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:57:51 PST

Tutorial done by ME!!

Anyways, this is some Gimp help that i thought people might need Cuz i just NOW figured out how to do this Anyways here ya go!

Steps:
1. Open up your picture
2. Click on the Fuzzy Select Tool (Magic Tool)
3. Click on your background
4. Go to the Menu and click on Layer, Transparency, Add Alpha Channel
5. Click on your Eraser
6. Start to erase your background. (Make sure you use the Magic Tool so you do not erase your actual picture!!)
7. After you've erased your background and it looks like a bunch of Gray blocks, click on the New Layer button to your right.
8. Now click on the eye of your actual picture so you're just left with the Gray blocks.
9. Click on your Bucket Filler and color the blocks White.
10. Now make your background whatever you want it to be!! After that, click on your background picture to your right and click the DOWN arrow so you move it down, below your picture.
11. Now next to your picture should be a blank spot, click it so the EYEBALL appears.
12. And there ya go!! All done! You did it!

If you have any questions please feel free to ask

BTW: You may have to download picture to see. Sorry for the inconvinience.